The question of fuel additives for truck camper rigs set off a firestorm of passionate reader responses both for and against the popular products.

This week’s Question of the Week was, “Do you use a fuel additive for your truck camping truck?”  This question was sent in by TCM reader and fuel additive user, Charlie Coushaine.

After reading through the 84 responses, we found the top 5 fuel diesel additives are Diesel Kleen + Cetane Boost, Stanadyne Injector Cleaner, Opti-Lube, Howes Lubricator Diesel Treatment, and Lucus Upper Cylinder Lubricant.

“I do not use fuel additives, but I run the truck every two weeks when I’m not traveling.” – David Weinstein, 1999 Ram 3500, 5.9 Cummins, Diesel, 2005 Arctic Fox 1150

“With the lack of lubrication properties of Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel (ULSD), I add a quart of two-cycle oil to each tank of fuel.  My research indicated that it’s the most cost effective treatment for restoring lubricity.” – George Bennett, 2006 Chevy 2500HD, LB7 Duramax Diesel, 2015 Wolf Creek

“I use Diesel Kleen + Cetane Boost.  It’s a total injector cleaner and performance improver.  The Max HP Formula of Diesel Kleen + Cetane Boost is loaded with cetane, detergent, and a lubricity improver to provide peak diesel performance.  I have been using it for as long as I can remember.” – Craig Miller, 1999 Ford F350, 7.3L Powerstroke Diesel, 1999 Lance 11.5

“I just don’t feel fuel additives are necessary on a newer truck.” – Steve Stewart, 2015 Chevy 3500HD, 6.0 Liter Gas, 2012 Arctic Fox 992

“I only use diesel exhaust fluid (commonly called DEF), as required by our overseers in Washington.  I would not use it if it wasn’t required.  At the advice of a very good diesel mechanic, I do not use any additive.  Ford also does not indicate the use of it.” – Glenn Yauney, 2013 Ford F350, 6.7 Liter Diesel, 2000 Arctic Fox 1100

“Yes, I use Lucas fuel injector cleaner.” – Ronald Fithen Sr., 2005 Ford F350, V10 Gas, 2015 Lance 855s

“I use Opti-Lube in my fuel.  I do a lot of city and short trips and the additive helps.  There seems to be less regens and smoke when I use it.  The engine also seems to run smoother.” – John Evans, 2010 Ford F250, 6.3 Liter Diesel, 2016 Lance 825

“Over the years I have tended not to believe in additives.  I had a sailboat with a diesel engine that was having injector problems.  The diesel repair shop rebuilt the injectors and recommended using Stanadyne Diesel Fuel Additive.

When I got my truck it was the first year that would safely burn low sulfur diesel.  The sulfur in diesel provided lubrication for the injectors and injector pump.  I figured the extra lubrication from the additive couldn’t hurt even though I noticed no difference in performance.

After a few years I noticed a very slight vibration at idle at startup.  I tried a bottle of Stanadyne Injector Cleaner.  The vibration went away, so now I put in a bottle every six months.  I’m trying to make my truck last as long as I can because of the price of a new one.” – Bryce Dillree, 2007 GMC 2500 HD, 6.6L Duramax Diesel, 2013 Wolf Creek 850

“I use Amzoil Diesel injector clean on every second tank refill.  I average 14.5 liters per 100 kilometers.  I have a truck camper on the Ram, plus I’m towing with a Jeep.” – Ben Boulet, 2006 Ram 2500, 5.9 Liter Diesel, 2012 Lance 855S

“I’ll go a few miles out of my way for Top Tier rated gasoline.  If high detergent gas isn’t available, I have a few bottles of Chevron Techron in my camper.  By the way, non-ethanol premium provides the lowest cost/mile of any gasoline.  I test every vehicle we buy; car or pickup.  The in-dash mileage calculator is usually optimistic.” – Philip Tron, 2009 Chevy 3500, 6 Liter Gas, 2012 Lance 1050

“None.  I had a 2001 with 200,000 miles on it.  Now, our 2006 Chevy has 230,000 miles. Neither has had any work done on the engines.” – Ernest Wallace, 2006 Chevy 3500HD, 6.6 Liter Duramax Diesel, 2005 Lance 881

“I just recently had to have the EGR sensor system serviced with only 26,000 miles on this truck.  Apparently this is a common problem on this truck, as Ford just sent out a letter stating they will be covering this problem for up to 120,000 miles on my vehicle.

The service advisor told me the best way to prevent the problem was to add a cetane booster which would help keep the EGR system cleaner.  So yes, I am now on my first tank with the Power Service Diesel Kleen additive.  Time will tell.” – Don Brown, 2014 Ford F350, 6.7 Liter Diesel, 2014 Lance 855s

“I use Power Service Diesel Kleen + Cetane Boost.  I use it to keep injectors clean, for top cylinder lubrication, and for the added cetane.” – John Wells, 2011 Chevy 3500, Duramax 6.6 Liter Diesel, 2012 Chalet Ascent S100F

“Yes, I use Stanadyne Performance Formula although I may check into the Archoil offerings.  Snake oils?  Most likely, but relative inexpensive insurance.  In reading articles from mechanics, they are not always helpful, especially when you find they are also peddling a specific product line as, “the Best Patent Medicine around”.

But, if you read the various subjects on how fuels are formulated, you come away even more confused.  OEM provided owner’s manuals usually recommend not adding anything to fuel or oil, but of course they are in the business to sell vehicles.  Vehicle longevity claims are not always in their best interest, but they do sound nice in their advertising.

I’m a skeptic at heart, pessimistic most days and totally expect this response to be edited.  All the spelling, grammar and punctuation errors are mine.” – Mark Bench, 2015 Ford F350, 6.7 Liter Diesel, Shopping, but likely a Hallmark Everest or Alaskan.  Previous Lance owner.

“No additive.  I don’t see a need for it.” – John Rand, 1999 Ford F250, 7.3 Liter Diesel, 2012 Arctic Fox 990 and 2016 Northern Lite 9.6

“Power Serve.” – Peter Wood, 2006 Ford F350, 6.0 Liter Diesel, 2001 Bigfoot 3500

“I use E-ZOIL Diesel Aid+Cetane purchased from my truck repair company.  They repair large equipment.  The instructions say for maintenance to use 1 ounce per 15 gallons, and for performance to use 2 ounces per 15 gallons.  I always use 2 ounces.  I also have a programmer for the diesel recommended by my truck repair company.” – Chip Collin, 2002 Ford F350, 7.3 Liter International Diesel, 2014 Chalet DS116RB

“I do not use a fuel additive.  I do, however, make certain the fuel tank stays full in the winter and that the truck at least starts and runs once per week.” – Keith Kreutzer, 2005 Ram 3500, 5.9 Liter Cummins Diesel, 2005 Hallmark Guanella

“I use Diesel Kleen at about a half cup for my 20 gallon tank.” – John Cash, 1991 Ford F250, 7.3 Liter Diesel, 1998 Lance Squire

“Every six months or so there might be a sale on injection cleaner at a two for one price, so I will put in a bottle, but that’s it.” – Frank Niehus, 2007 Ford F350, 6.0 Liter Diesel, 2007 Arctic Fox 1150

“We have not used an additive.  We are new to having a diesel engine verses our gas one.  Next time we do an oil change, we will inquire at the dealership about using an additive.  It wasn’t mentioned to us when we bought it.  We were told to use pure diesel only and oil changes regularly.” – Hazel Green, 2015 Ford F350, 6.7 Liter Diesel, 2008 Northern Lite 10.2

“I use Hi Performance Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant.” – Billy Mackaill, 2014 GMC 2500, 6.6 Liter Duramax Diesel, 2016 Northstar Laredo

“Yes, but I’m not OCD about it!  I’ve talked with many diesel mechanics and have finally set my opinion that using a diesel fuel additive may or may not help your engine.  Why?  Think about it!

The main reason, as the oil company marketers claim, is that using a diesel additive will lubricate all of the moving parts within the diesel fuel system.  It also helps stabilize the fuel when your rig is in storage for long periods of time.  The additives coat the mechanical parts and, with this lubrication, prolong their life and allow these parts to function more efficiently.

Again I say, “think about this!”  Diesel fuel in and of itself is an oil.  Spill some on your garage floor, step on it, and you’re on your butt before you know what hit you.  So why add a lubricant to an oil?  It does not make any sense.  That’s one school of thought – don’t use any additives because you just don’t need them.

On the extreme other side of the school are the owners, not the mechanics, who would not fail to add 8 ounces of their favorite additive at every fill up.  That’s just a crazy waste of money.  So where I fall is, after every 1,000 miles, I add one bottle, 8 ounces, of my favorite additive to my tank.

My favorite being Opti-Lube XPD Formula Diesel Fuel Additive.  I buy it by the gallon and use some 8 ounce containers that I purchased early on.  I just refill them as I go.  This is a very cost effective way to cover the inconclusive data that swells around whether or not to use an additive.

Lastly, let me add that I know some diesel owners that have never used any additives and have with 200,000+ maintenance-free miles.  Go figure!  Happy trails.” – Dan Daddieco, 2015 Ram 3500, Cummins Turbo Diesel 6.7 Liter Diesel, 2015 Eagle Cap 1165

“I have never used an additive but, it does sit for four months during the winter.  I did not realize that algae will build up in diesel fuel.  It always starts up in the Spring and, I always have it serviced at Ford dealer where I bought it in the Spring.  They know it sits for the winter and have never suggested an additive.  Should I be using one?” – Steven Kafka, 2003 Ford F350, 6.0 Liter Diesel, 2005 Lance Max 981

“No.” – Bill Gage, 2003 Ram 2500, 5.9 Liter 24 valve Diesel, 2008 Northstar TC650

“Yes, I use Lucas Fuel Treatment with injector cleaner and fuel conditioner additive and have found that the regen comes on a lot less if I use the Lucas than if I don’t.  It gets a little better fuel mileage.” – Jerry Cunningham, 2010 Ford F450, 6.4 Liter Power Stroke Diesel, 2016 Host Mammoth

“I always use an additive.  I have used Amsoil, Power Service and Howe’s over the years.  There are several options depending on the seasons.  I also try to avoid the Minnesota veggie fuel if possible when we are staying in our general area.  I have never gelled up in the winter due to blending and additives.  That makes me happy!” – Dave Miller, 2015 Ford F350, 6.7 Liter Diesel, 2003 Bigfoot 10.6E

“I do not use any type of fuel additive.  My truck camping truck is also my daily driver and never sits for more than one week, so there is no need for an anti-algae additive.

Having been a service writer at a Dodge dealer, as well as having Cummins engine training, I was advised against the use of any type of additive, especially on a 24 valve Cummins.  My son-in-law has a late 1990s 12 valve Cummins.  He also has never used additives.” – Bob Watts, 2011 Dodge Ram 2500, 6.7 Liter Diesel, 2000 Fleetwood Angler 8

“Yes, I use a fuel additive.  Over the years I have tried almost every brand but settled on one that has actually improved my miles per gallon.  On average I get 1.5 to 2.0 miles per gallon better both unloaded and hauling/towing.

I use Power Service Diesel Kleen +Cetane Boost Injector Cleaner and Performance Improver (grey can).  I add proportional amounts with every fill up.” – Tom Adams, 2001, GMC, Sierra 2500HD, 6.6 Liter Diesel, 1998 Northland 10-foot

“I burn regular diesel and 20% biodiesel depending on who has the lower price.  I occasionally add Lucas fuel stabilizer to the regular diesel.  I have 190,000 and it’s running great.” – Ron Williams, 1997 Ford F250 SD, 7.3 Liter Powerstroke Diesel, 2003 Lance 1010

“I use Power Service in a grey bottle (for warm weather).” – John Godfrey, 2012 Ford F350, 6.7 Liter Diesel, no slide-in at present (but a 32 ft fifth wheel)

“No.  I have used a fuel additive in the past to increase the cetane but the current truck has ample power and needs no increase in power for our use.  The algae you mentioned in the article has me thinking about using an additive for that purpose, especially when the truck is not driven for a while.” – William Chiles, 2015 Ram 3500, 6.7 Liter Diesel, 2013 Lance 1050S

“We do not use any fuel additives in the truck.  One of the reasons we purchased a gas engine was to eliminate higher costs of diesel maintenance or fuel additives and diesel fuel related issues.” – Paul Stewart, 2006 Chevy 3500, 8.1 Liter Gas, 2000 Summerwind

“I use a cetane booster that I purchase from the local Ford dealer.  After a lot of urging, I now buy my fuel from name companies like Chevron, 76, Texaco or whatever.” – Steve Timmings, 2003 Ford F350, 6 Liter Power Stroke Diesel, Four Wheel Camper Hawk SC

“I use Power Service in a grey bottle with every refueling.  I use the regular amount listed on container.  I also use Biobor from West Marine, Power Service from Walmart, or Tractor Supply in late fall.  My vehicle is not a daily driver.  I use it only for projects or recreation.” – William Mega, 2001 Ford F350, 7.3 Liter Diesel, 2000 Lance 835

“The problem with our domestic diesel now seems to be lack of lubrication for the pump and injectors.  With my 2002 Powerstroke I used Walmart two-cycle oil at a mix of 100 /1.  I sold that truck at 100,000 miles with no fuel system problems at all.  With my 2015 Duramax I try to maintain a minimum of 2% biodiesel.  I blend either B10 or B20 depending on availability and the season (things tend to get cold here in western Wyoming).

I try to buy 5 to 10 gallons of B100 when it is available to use as an additive when on the road since biodiesel is hard to get in some areas.  I keep the B100 in my cool basement and have had zero issues with algae or deterioration.

I do not ever intend to run biodiesel as rich as B20 even though my truck is officially sanctioned for it.  Scarring tests show that the greatest lubrication improvements can be achieved with as little as 2% biodiesel.

I don’t drive the truck a lot in the winter, but so far Howes has seemed to prevent gelling for me.  Pump failure seems to be a rare but expensive proposition as it takes out the injectors and complete fuel systems, usually after the warranty is up.  I guess we all pay our money and take our chances.” – Robert Benesh, 2015 GMC 3500, Duramax Diesel, 2004 Alpenlite 850

“We have added Opti-Lube to all of the diesel trucks we have owned since 2009; a 2009 Dodge 2500, a 2012 Silverado 3500 HD dually, and now a 2015 GMC 3500HD dually.

We add it every fill up, and use it year round since the truck is my winter commuter vehicle as well as our summer truck camping workhorse.  We also tow a 20-foot enclosed trailer with mountain bikes, gear, water, fuel, and a RZR (or motorcycles or racing Miata).  The diesel truck is needed and loved.

The Opti-Lube was highly reviewed and recommended and has served us well.  You can even get it in small travel bottles.  On the road it is easy to add with each fill up.” – Tracy Schuster, 2015 GMC 3500, Duramax Diesel, 2012 Lance 992

“I started using Archoil shortly after I purchased the truck in September, 2015 with 224,000 miles.  I did not have the truck long enough to solidly say using it made a difference.

I purchased the truck with a 2003 Bigfoot camper on it.  It was an affordable package but I knew I had better take extreme care of the high mileage truck to avoid any regrets.  I did end up having the transmission rebuilt five months after I purchased it.  It was not unexpected and I actually have more peace of mind knowing I can take long trips hauling the camper and trailer with a new and properly maintained tranny.  I will keep using Archoil in the fuel and oil until something better comes along.” – Bill Ortiz, 1999 Ford F350, Power Stroke 7.3 Liter Diesel, 2003 Bigfoot 25c 9.6

“No. If you use good gas from the get go you won’t need any additives.” – Timothy Chapell, 2013 Ford F150, 3.5 Liter Ecoboost Gas, 2013 Palomino SS-1251

“Another excellent question, as Charlie and I have the same motor.  You have to remember that the 7.3 PowerStroke was designed in the 1990s and, to use Charlie’s words, sulfur embedded for lubrication was the diesel you bought.

On the first round of emissions we got the Low Sulfur blend, and then another round of emissions and we got the Ultra Low fuel blend.

Now if you want to believe the government, this new fuel would not harm older diesels still running.  But, we are passionate about our diesels and I just thought a cetane booster additive was best for the 7.3 PowerStroke.

I have been running a four-part additive/cetane booster mixture for my 7.3 PowerStroke as soon as the first round of reduced sulfur fuel came into existence.  They are all purchased off the shelf and through years of experimentation, have come up with what I think is best for my PowerStroke.

Today’s newer diesels are designed to run on this new ultra low diesel fuel.  My question to my fellow diesel owners is, “With the introduction of Bio Diesel now seen at many stations, how much are you losing in the mile per gallon department?”

I just came back from a 3,800 mile trip to Florida and I suffered a 20% drop on fuel mileage.  My normal 12 to 13 miles per gallon dropped 10 to 11 miles per gallon depending on conditions.” – Mike Tassinari, 2002 Ford F350, the best diesel on the planet – the 7.3 Liter Diesel, 2016 Lance 1172

“Ever since diesel fuel was reformulated here in California, I’ve heard many horror stories about the older diesels having injector pump and injector failures (leakage and excessive wear) due to non-fuel lubrication.

I’ve read that even the newer diesel trucks designed with low-sulfur fuel in mind have premature fuel wear issues.  I started using ATF as an additive in my 1983 Ford (same engine, non-turbo) and racked up over 200,000 miles on the original i.p. and injectors before selling the truck.

I’ve read that the usual lifespan is more like 100,000 miles.  So, this worked.  I bought the 1993 last year.  This truck with 115,000 miles had sat for about ten years, so it had a number of fuel delivery problems (dirty tanks, rotted injector return lines, leaking lift pump).

I only got 5,000 miles out of a new fuel filter before it plugged and the engine lost power.  I used Diesel Purge to clean the injectors.  This seemed to help restore lost power.  I will be using a commercial additive, such as Diesel Kleen, or Stanadyne Injector Cleaner and replacing filters often from now on.” – Alan Keith, 1993 Ford F250, 7.3 Liter IDI Turbo Diesel, 1997 Lance Squire Lite

“I have used Lucas products in all of my vehicles since the early 90s after racing and an incident of overheating a 460 Ford motorhome and not losing the engine because of additional lubrication due to the additive.

All fueled vehicles and equipment run with Lucas fuel additive as well as crank cases with lubrication additives.  Diesel or gasoline both having additional additives in the form of alcohol cause considerable headaches for storage as well as fuel mileage.  I have found cleaner running as in emissions and oil cleanliness with these additional products.  I also work on my equipment if it is possible.” – Eric Devolin, 2007 GMC 3500, 6.6 Liter Diesel, 2006 Adventurer 106 DBS

“No. Our engine odometer is at 62,000+ miles, and we have had no problems.  Living in Taxifornia has its headaches.  We can’t legally modify our rig’s engine to get more mileage and power.  The fuel we buy seems to be fine.  It has plenty of power to haul the camper and tow our trailer over the High Sierra range.” – Mike Kolinski, 2012 GMC 2500, 6.6 Liter Duramax Diesel, 2012 Four Wheel Camper Hawk

“I use Power Service Diesel Kleen with Cetane Boost.  I have been using it for most of its life.  My truck currently has 110,000 miles on it.  My truck sounds and runs like the day I purchased it.  Whether the additive has anything to do with that or not, it makes me feel better because of this new fuel that is on the market now-a-days.” – David Donovan, 2007 Chevy 3500, Duramax Diesel, 2012 Chalet TS116

“I use Howes Lubricator Diesel Treatment.” – Jay Brower, 2013 Chevy 3500, Duramax Diesel, 2014 Chalet TS116

“I use the Power Service Diesel Fuel Supplement +Cetane Boost additive when I’m on long trips and during extreme cold weather.” – Norm Cushard, 2005 Chevrolet Silverado 3500, 6.6 Liter Duramax Diesel, 2016 Palomino HS-8801

“Yes, I always use Howes fuel additive all year for every other tank fill, as well as a cetane additive.” – Paul Kalson, 2012 Ram 3500, 6.7 Liter Cummins Diesel, Soon to Be Arctic Fox 992

“I never had any reason for using additives, nor will I knowingly purchase biodiesel.  I have been a professional diesel technician since 1973 and am currently a certified instructor for Detroit Diesel.

Modern diesel injection systems are precision, expensive, and designed to operate with pure Ultra Low Sulfur fuel.  Why would anyone add something that could possibly damage this system?  Reading the Detroit Diesel fuel recommendations, additives increase operating costs and provide no benefits.” – Charles Wade, 2016 Ram 3500, 6.7 Cummins High Output Diesel, 2016 Northern Lite 10-2 EX CDSE

“We have used a cetane additive in the past, but not in the last year.  We were averaging 11 miles per gallon with aggressive tires.  I changed to highway tread and lost one mile per gallon.  Maybe its time to add some juice.  For me, diesel is the only way to go.” – Phil McEachen, 2000 Ford F350, 7.3 Liter Powerstroke Diesel, 2008 Okanagan 117DBL

“I use Berryman’s Chemtool in my tank along with Sta-Bil for ethanol gas to keep the gas fresh.  The Berrymans cleans the injectors with the stored gas.  I might take the truck out three to four times a year, crank it and let it run for twelve minutes every two weeks.  I have a company car so the truck is pretty much used for the camper now.” – Steve Lowery, 1999 Toyota Tacoma, 2.7 Liter Gas, 2010 Travel Lite 690FD

“This is a complicated question, and really does need some informed opinions.  As we are faced with ever increasing restrictions on emissions, the manufactures are faced with a series of quick fixes.  The latest is causing a lot of issues in regards to engine life span and, ultimately, the cost of ownership.

As past lubricating components of diesel fuel are being phased out because of the emissions that they cause, the new diesel truck owner is being faced with shortcomings in lubrication of the fuel system that can cause huge repair bills.  With the alloys and special seal compositions, everyday fuel additives may not be the answer.

Additives that chase water from tanks and fuel lines can contain alcohol type chemicals that are a no-no for new modern diesels.  There are additives available from your dealership that fit your engine.  Don’t mess with off the shelf additives unless you are knowledgeable of what your needs are and the ingredients within.

Adding a fuel additive to your tank at fill up to improve lubrication and keep things in the fuel system healthy can add up to a noticeable expense, but is well worth it if you plan to keep the truck for more than just the warranty period (like most of us).  A damaged high pressure fuel pump can cost thousands to replace and it’s something that the professional long haul truckers can put over a million miles on with out issue.

In conclusion, we are concerned by what we do to the environment.  What sort of a planet are we are leaving to our kids to deal with?  So reducing emissions is a good thing.  Putting the burden of possible expensive repairs on us because of poor techs and quick fix solutions is not a good thing.  Paying uber dollars for a modern diesel camper hauler that may fail long before it should is becoming common place.” – Wes Hargreaves, 2016 Ford F450, 6.7 Liter Powerstroke, Diesel, 2006 Snowbird 108DS

“I use two-cycle motor oil at one ounce per ten gallons of fuel.  It’s TCW3 from Walmart.” – Butch Bird, 2001 Dodge 3500, 5.9 Cummins, Diesel, 2000 Lance 1010

“Yes, we use the Stanadyne performance additive.  The truck runs better with it and we get a slight improvement in our highway mileage.” – Eddie Fort, 2006 Ford F350, 6.0 Liter Diesel, 2016 Hallmark Everest

“I do use additives.  Being in the family owed automotive repair and service for 40 years, we see problems with our fuels of today and how they effect the performance of both gas and diesel engines.

BG products makes additives for both diesel and gasoline engines.  I have customers with 6.0 and 6.4 Liter Ford diesels which our known for EGR problems.  I have used BG 244 in these trucks with great success.  I will say these additives can be expensive but the alternative can be more costly.  I use BG244 mostly in the cooler months when idle time on diesel trucks is longer for most owners due to colder temperatures and the need for heat.

The rest of the time we recommend BG248 which is a good cetane booster and helps with lubrication of injectors and pump.  They also make a gasoline additive which is also costly but does a very good job on carbon build-up which is very common in fuels with ethanol added.

So additives are not as bad cost wise when you consider the price to replace all 8 injectors in a 6.6 Liter Duramax can be as high as $8,000.  But when towing heavy loads, for me, it’s diesel all the way.  Preventive maintenance is the best thing anyone could do especially when you look at the cost of new trucks, gas or diesel.” – Kevin Brenner, 2003 Chevy 3500, 6.6 Liter Duramax Diesel, 2010 Lance 1181

“Yes, I use Power Service, ULSD Formula.” – Bruce Moses, 2006 Chevy 3500, Duramax Diesel, 2009 Lance 1191

“Yes.  I did a fair amount of research when I bought the truck a few years back in anticipation of buying a truck camper.  Although I have not purchased a unit yet, I follow this publication and other sources on campers.

The best numbers in terms of lubricity for diesels I found was a product called Opti-lube.  I believe it can only be purchased online.  I purchase it by the case and carry a jug with me in the truck.  I only add it to every other tank.  I do my own minor maintenance of all filters and oil.

I believe they sell a fuel stabilizer for those parking their trucks for a while.  For those of you that have access to private aircraft supplies, there is a product that prevents the formation of algae.  It is called Prist.  I used it for years in a Cessna Citation.  In addition to preventing algae, it also keeps the fuel from gelling.

My friends who drive long haul trucks do not use any additives.  According to one guy, they go through so much fuel it would be coast prohibitive.  Hope this helps.” – Bob Melehan, 2006 Dodge Ram 3500, 5.9 Liter Cummins Diesel, Looking for a camper

“I use Power Service and Howes fuel treatment.  You can hear the difference in the engine without the fuel additive.” – C. Ramsey, 2012 Chevy 3500, Duramax 6.6 Liter Diesel, 2014 Adventurer 116DS

“Yes, I use Diesel Kleen.  I use the grey bottle in the summer, and the white bottle in the winter.” – Rich Elmquist, 2008 Ford F450, 6.4 Liter Powerstroke Diesel, 2008 Host Everest

“I have used Stanadyne Performance Formula since my truck was new.  It does seem to help my diesel run with less noise.  The product was recommended by my diesel mechanic, but I haven’t seen mileage improvement and I really can’t say it’s helping with the longevity of my truck.  Like many Ford 6.0 Liter diesels, I have had to replace my head gaskets and water pump.  However I don’t believe the additive would have helped with either problem.” – Henry Yoneyama, Ford F350, 6.0 Liter Diesel, 2012 Arctic Fox 990

“No.  I never heard I was supposed to use a fuel additive.  I thought your 1998 Dodge was supposed to be unbreakable.  They say my engine is only a little better than the 6.0 Liter.  I have not had to pay for repairs this far with 99,000 miles.  I bought it used, but Ford fixed something twice and that was a long time ago.

I change oil every five to six thousand miles and the fuel filter every other oil change.  It’s expensive, but cheaper than an engine.  I hope this is my last camper truck, but if not I will look for a gas engine in my next truck.  There are not too many available in duallies used unless a work truck trim level is desired.” – William Foley, 2008 Ford F350, 6.4 Liter Diesel, 2007 Arctic Fox 1140

“Yes, experience has shown us that Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant and Injector cleaner has been a very viable product.  Our Ford was purchased new in 2000 and has 184,000 miles on it.  Its usage has been as a recreational vehicle for two 35-foot fifth wheels and 4,000 pounds of a truck camper with a Jeep in tow.  We have traveled the lower forty eight, Canada, and Alaska.  The truck has been maintained to perfection in accordance to the manufacturer’s specifications.

We began using the Lucas product when the truck reached 100,000 miles, and supplement our fuel with the required amount every four fill ups.  In many conversations with diesel owners and mechanics, the Lucas product was recommended to improve the injector longevity and performance.  The only repairs to the engine have been a water pump, alternator, and serpentine belt.  Otherwise the truck has performed flawlessly.  There have been no problems with the fuel injectors or fuel delivery systems.  In my mind, the value of the fuel supplement has been proven and cost justified.” – Warne Todd, 2000 Ford F350, 7.3 Liter Powerstroke Diesel, 2005 Lance 981 Max

“Yes, I use a fuel additive from Opti-Lube.  I’m not even sure that an additive is needed, but this one from Opti-Lube is supposed to increase the lubricity of the modern low sulfur diesel fuels, and therefore increases the life of the very expensive fuel injection pump.  Who knows if it actually does any good?  But it costs less than $1 to treat a tank of fuel, so I figured it can’t hurt to use it.” – Buzz and Sherri Merchlewitz, 1998 Dodge Ram 2500, 24 valve Cummins Diesel, 2015 Hallmark Ute

“All my advice is not to use additives as that they are not necessary.  I’m advised to keep the RPM up around 1,800 to keep the exhaust gas hot and use clean fuel that’s seasonally adjusted for the temperature.

Purchasing fuel from retail pumps with good sales volume should ensure clean fuel and the correct cetane rating adjusted at the refinery level for seasonal temperature changes.

I’ve not had algae problems in my 30 years running diesel tractors, but understand the problems come with wet fuel from drums or farm tanks or other contaminated sources.” – John W. Hallett, 2011 Dodge 3500, 6.7 Liter Cummins Diesel, 2014 Bigfoot 9.6 LB

“I drive a GMC 2500HD diesel and the manual says not to use additives.  The Car Talk Guys on NPR also cautioned against using additives.  Additionally, my wife’s car is a Toyota and they too say not to use additives.  I’m thinking they are all hype, but of course it does work because they do sell.” – Al Stebbins, 2016 GMC 2500 HD, Duramax Diesel, 2005 Northern Lite 8-11 Queen

“I periodically put in an injector cleaner about every 5,000 miles, if I remember to buy it.  I haven’t done anything else and I have owned diesels for about fifteen years.

I live in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan where the temperatures routinely get to thirty below zero.  I plug the truck in when I am home, but have come out of work at these temps and the engine has always started.

I see that Lucas has a particulate filter cleaner and I will likely throw a bottle of that in once over my next trip.  The only problem I ever had was when I inadvertently filled the truck with 20% bio-diesel and it clogged the injectors.  I did need to go to a GM dealer and have them do a more extensive clean-out.  I had used bio-diesel in the past on my old Dodge with the Cummins with no problems, but this engine clearly doesn’t like it.  The challenge is that not all pumps are clearly labeled.” – Steve Merrill, 2009 Chevy Silverado 3500, 6.6 Liter Duramax Diesel, 2007 Lance 992

“I use Ford Cetane Booster.” – Jon Hunstock, 2008 F250, 6.4 Liter Powerstroke, Diesel, 2014 Northstar Arrow U

“I use Racor ADT 1116 Conditioner Plus.  A good diesel mechanic friend of mine did not specifically recommend this product, but did encourage me to use a conditioner that improves the lubricity of the fuel.  He says that since the sulfur was removed from the fuel he has seen an increase in fuel injector failure due to the decrease in the fuel lubricity.

In addition to containing lubricity additives, the Racor product I’m using claims to improve fuel economy, prevents corrosion, stabilizes fuel quality during prolonged storage, and contains a Cetane Improver.

I have used this product for about the last 38,000 miles starting when I had about 30,000 miles on the truck.  I have had no engine related problems, but would not have expected to in a relatively low mileage truck.

So I look at using the additive as preventive maintenance hoping that the cost and minor inconvenience of adding it at each fuel fill up will add up to cheap insurance.

I want to note that I am down to my last bottle.  I decided to order more only to find out that it is no longer produced and the manufacturer does not have a replacement.  I plan to continue to use a fuel additive, but will need to do some research to determine which one.  I’m looking forward to seeing what others are using.” – Eldon Rhodes, 2008 Chevy 3500HD, 6.0 Liter DuraMax, Diesel, 2011 Lance 1050

“I always use a fuel additive with every fill-up.  I have a 35 gallon tank and fill it when I know it will take 25 to 32 gallons of diesel.  With a diesel, it’s never a good idea to run out of fuel.

With each fill-up I add 8 ounces of Power Source Diesel Kleen Cetane Booster, the gray bottle for spring, summer, and fall driving.  I use the white bottle for winter driving and storage.  I always carry one 32 ounce container.  If we plan on more than two thousand miles for a trip I’ll always have the gallon container.

There are so many places we’ve stopped to fill-up and I sometimes wonder how long their diesel fuel has been sitting in their storage tanks.  That’s why I like to add a fuel additive.

During the winter months I always keep the tank completely full to help keep condensation forming and I will add 12 ounces of Power Service additive for each fill-up.  I also keep the block heater plugged in so it makes for much easier starting.  I drain the fuel filter after about 5 tank fills.  That’s just another maintenance item that needs to be kept up.  With 89,000 miles on the truck, I know I have a lot of life left in this camper hauler!” – Roger Odahl, 2008 Ram 3500, 6.7 Liter, Diesel, 2004 Eagle Cap 950

“My trucks primary use is the truck camper, so 75% of the miles are on hills and curves.  I use 90 or better when I obtain gasoline to gain a better timing advance through the computer sensing valve knock.  I also add Marvel Mystery oil in colder weather, which is a great gas stabilizer and cleaner.” – Walter George, 2015 Ford 350, 6.2 L, Gas, 2015 Lance 1052

“I do not use any additives.  My owner’s manual says not to use fuel additives other than those recommended in the manual.  I didn’t see any noted!  It also mentioned that the warranty may be voided.  I am very interested to the feedback on this question.

Before purchasing our current truck and camper we had a Chevy 1500 gas and a 22′ holiday trailer.  While it performed okay on level roads, it was awful going up hills especially in the mountains where we like to camp and fish.  I always swore that my next truck would be a diesel.  We now tow a 3500 pound boat with our truck and camper and the hills are no longer a problem.  I agree that initial investment is more, but you can recoup most of that on resale.  Diesel is also priced a bit lower and I get better fuel economy especially when fully loaded.  No way I would go back to gas!” – Roger Geisinger, 2013 Chevy 3500, Duramax, Diesel, 2013 Northern Lite 10-2

“I worked on diesel engines for 36 years.  The newer engines are common rail high pressure fuel systems.  They require a clean fuel system.  Water is the biggest problem and can destroy the system if not treated.

Diesel fuel is a lot better than it used to be.  Additives are regularly added by distributors to prevent algae, caused by water in fuel system.  If you want to use an additive, use 911 to remove water.  I now have a gas engine and use a treatment once a year to prevent water buildup.  Water in gas is just as bad as in diesel fuel.  I think Lucas products is the best.” – Charlie Young, 2013 Chevy 2500HD, 6.0 Liter, Gas, 2012 Riverside 865

“Yes I do.  I use Power Service Diesel Kleen.  A year and a half ago I was in Yellowstone when the engine started running rough.  I don’t know if I got bad diesel, if I was having a gelling problem or what.  I stopped at a station and purchased a small bottle of Power Service Diesel 911.  I dumped the whole thing in and soon the engine was running smoothly again.  I always carry Diesel Kleen with me to add to the tank.” – John Bull, 2004 Dodge 3500, Cummins 5.9, Diesel, 2015 Arctic Fox 990

“I use Amsoil cetane boost, Amsoil injector cleaner on every fill up.  I also use Amsoil injector cleaner with a cold flow improver in the winter.” – Jim Thomas, 2013 F350 Ford, 6.7, Diesel, 2013 Host Shasta

“I use Archoil exclusively.  I use it in my diesel tractor and gas vehicles.  It has increased the fuel mileage and eliminated diesel stiction.  Charlie, go to powerstrokehelp.com and watch all his videos.” – Karl Sault, 1994 Ford 2810, 3 cylinder, Diesel, N/A

“I faithfully use an additive with every fill-up and buy my additive from a local Tractor Supply Company store. I  don’t use the truck as often as I used to and it’s not unusual for it to sit unused for a couple weeks.  Still, I’ve never had any issues with starting or running it and I think it’s due to the Power Service additives that I use.

I learned to use additives after many years of experience driving diesel VW Rabbits in the 70s and 80s.  I used to get around 300,000 miles and around 50 miles per gallon with those engines.  Diesel fuel used to be cheaper than gas but that has changed since the US started exporting so much of it.  Also, EPA regulations has turned owning a new diesel into a nightmare so I would most likely switch to gasoline for my next truck.” – Jack Pavie, 1995 Ford F350, 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel, 1987 Real Lite 950

“We use the Motorcraft Cetane Booster and Performance Improver.  I add some to every other fill-up.  I have been using it since we bought the truck new in 2006.” – John and Laurie Brokaw, 2006 Ford F250 Super Duty, 6.0 Diesel, 2010 Lance 850

“We use Optima fuel additive in the diesel that carries our truck camper so that it will not plug the exhaust system.  It is the same that we use in the tractors.  We have used it in the older diesel trucks, but when they are not running as well (usually due to poor fuel) we use Lubricity.” – Tricia Mason, 2009 Ford F350, 6.4 diesel, 2008 Montana Ponderosa

“Yes, we do now, after several thousand dollars of repairs and lots of trips.  We took two cross-country trips to Michigan from Henderson, Nevada and stumbled upon a product called Archoil.  Man, does it work as claimed, if not better.  We were told by a local diesel shop that we needed new injectors.  That was wrong.  We had a problem called stiction on the injectors when it’s cold.  After it warmed up, it ran fine.  It bucked and groaned even with the engine block heater plugged in overnight.  It was October and not really cold out, maybe 40 degrees at night.  The problem was solved.  Feel free to research it online.  It’s well worth the money.  It’s also available for gas engines.” – Robert Baker, 2005 Ford F350, 6.0 Diesel, In Between Campers, Towing a 22Ft Nomad

“I use Amsoil Performance Improver fuel additive once every 4k miles to keep the injectors, combustion chambers and intake valves clean.  I have noticed that the truck runs smoother and quieter.  I’ve also noticed better throttle response.” – Dennis De Ville, 2008 Ford F350, 6.8L V-10 Gas, 2008 Lance 1191

“To provide some addition lube to the CP3 High Pressure pump I put one pint of Supertech TC-W3 2-stroke oil in each tank.  With the low lube of ultra low sulfur diesel, a bit of lube doesn’t hurt.  Since TC-W3 is ashless, it won’t cause a problem when it burns.  The side benefit is that I also use it in the boat.  So, I only have to carry one brand of 2-stroke oil.” – Leonard Pennock, 2006 Ram 3500, 5.9 Diesel, 2002 Eagle Cap 950

“Diesel fuel cetane ratings can vary a lot from different sources.  As stated before, a lot of sulfur has been removed.  There is very little lubricity left in diesel fuel.  Add to that the growing amount of bio-diesel in today’s fuels, and an additive is a must.  I use Stanadyne performance formula.  At $300 a piece for an injector, it seems like a no brainer to me.” – Ross Vlieger, 2015 GMC 3500, Duramax Diesel, Lance 992

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Bryan Appleby, the Extreme Boondocker, takes us through the steps of installing a solar panel system on a truck camper roof rack.  Ready to unplug this summer?  Bryan shows you how.

Truck campers are truly the Swiss Army Knife of recreational vehicles.  They offer capabilities to camp off-the-grid in four season weather, travel down roads far from the reaches of designated campgrounds, and tow just about anything.  In fact, many of us have chosen a truck and camper rig because of this unique versatility.

As a full-time truck camper with extensive off-road and off-the-grid boondocking experience, I have recognized five essential elements that make extended dry camping – my favorite truck camper capability – both comfortable and enjoyable.  This list includes:

1. Shelter and safety
2. Source of fresh water
3. Source of warmth
4. Adequate food supply
5. Source of reliable power

For this article, it is my intent to focus on a relatively easy and affordable solution to the fifth element; a source of reliable power.  From a straight forward approach, I will demystify installing a solar panel system on a truck camper.

What makes this solar panel installation different from any other?  Simple!  I am providing a power survey template to help you to determine your solar power needs, a complete parts list, and a cost budget for your installation.

But what really sets this article apart is where the solar panel installation takes place; a truck camper’s roof rack.  Many truck campers have roof racks installed as standard from the factory, and these racks can make excellent platforms for a solar panel installation.

While many have demonstrated this use and application, my approach is a different in two ways.  First, I keep the installation to no more than two inches above your existing roof rack.  Second, my installation approach provides protection from the inevitable tree branch collision.

Most truck camper owners and dealers attach accessories to roof racks, including solar panels.  With this type of installation the solar panels are typically six to eight inches above the existing roof rack.  Mounting a solar panel in this fashion subjects the solar panel to wind, thus potentially stressing the panel, mounts, and wiring.

My installation drops the solar panels below an attachment bar (Unistrut) and only two to three inches above the existing roof rack.

Utilizing a Unistrut is key to this installation.  There are many aluminum alloy struts available online, but I prefer the lower cost and strength of steel Unistruts.  Unistruts are also easy to replace and there are numerous Unistrut attachments available at big box hardware stores and electrical supply stores, easily found along anyone’s route or home base.

If you have ever considered adding solar to your truck camper tool belt, and you have a roof rack installed on your truck camper, this is the solar installation project for you!  Let’s get started.

Above: Bryan’s roof rack solar installation schematic by Frank K.

1. Complete a power use survey

Prior to purchasing a solar panel system, it is critical to complete a power survey to determine what your solar power needs will be.  By knowing what your power needs are, you are able to ensure that you install the correct size and amount of solar panels.

Click here to download my power supply survey.  You can increase the size of the survey by changing the size in the PDF.

2. Required parts and tools

There’s nothing like getting a UPS shipment, held at will call, when you are boondocking out in the desert.  My work space can be thousands of acres of open cattle range.  I just have to ride into town – about 40 miles away – to pick up my latest solar panels.  Of course you may have your supplies delivered to your home, or on the road.

I have kept the required parts and tools to complete this project to a minimum.  With the exception of the solar panel and controller, the required parts and tools are common, and easy to source at big box hardware stores, like Home Depot or Lowes.

3. Begin the installation

Above: Maggie Rack Clamp With Unistrut

To begin the project, I drilled two 2-inch stainless steel L-brackets to fit the existing nut inserts on the roof rack system.  The bolt size was 5/16-inch-18.

Next I cut the two 10-foot Unistruts to the width of my truck camper roof rack system.  The above mentioned L-brackets were then attached to the Unistrut slots, simply with Strut Bolts available the same location as you purchased your Unistruts.

I measured the length size of my selected solar panels and set the distance of the Unistruts to that distance, on the roof rack rails.  I left the bolted L Brackets/Unistruts loose for final fitting.

I installed my solar panels separated so they can (a) tilt towards the sun for optimum charge, and (b) allow me to walk between them, when I’m on the roof of my camper.

4. Roof rack nut inserts and button bolts

Above: Installing the Unistrut to the Roof Rack

When you inspect your truck camper roof rack system, you should find additional nut inserts, again 5/16-inch-18.  These will be on both sides of the roof rack system along with little “button bolts”.  The nut inserts are where I attached the Unistruts using the L-brackets.

5. Cutting the slotted steel beams

Above: Slotted Steel Bracket of Solar Panel Mounting

Depending on the length of your solar panels, shorter slotted steel beams are available at big box stores, and longer slotted steel beams are available at garage door installation companies.

I cut the slotted steel beam to fit the width of the of the solar panels, including extra length to allow tilting and attachment without reaching under the panels.  Note that I mounted the panels to the bottom of the solar panel frames to add strength to the solar panel frames.

Above left: Installing Slotted bracket to bottom of solar panel, Above right: Installing slotted bracket with wood block to protect solar panel from an accidental drill bit strike.

I made sure not to install any brackets onto the sides of the solar panel frames.  This could put stress upon the glass surfaces of the solar panels and damage the panels, and/or defeat their efficiency.

Above: Installation of Solar Panel Cables

Many solar panels come with MC4 connectors.  Others do not.  It is not necessary to use MC4 connectors or go to the expense of purchasing additional cables.  I recommend using 10/2 UV resistant cables for your charge controller, whether you are wiring in series, or parallel.

7. Shrink sleeves for moisture protection

Above: Moisture protection is accomplished by using shrink tube

I installed shrink sleeves over all of the wire connections to minimize moisture intrusion from traveling and weather events.  Shrink sleeves (also called shrink tubing) can be found at auto parts suppliers and the big box hardware stores.  Once applied, shrink sleeves provide a water tight seal for electrical connections.

8. Combiner box installation

Above: Combiner Box installation

The cables from the solar panel are brought to a central location, a Combiner Box, combined into one duplex cable, and routed through the roof to a solar charge controller that’s installed inside the camper.

Routing the wire through the roof can be done by drilling a hole through the roof of your truck camper, or by running it through a refrigerator vent.  If your refrigerator is located on a slide-out, you will not have a roof top refrigerator vent and will need to drill a hole in your camper’s roof.

For this application, the combiner box was installed near the Unistrut to eliminate the need to run the solar panel cables along the roof.

9. Installing the solar panels onto the Unistrut

Above: 200w of Solar Panels on the Roof Rack

Installing the solar panels is done by using Unistrut cone connectors – 1/4-inch or 3/8-inch – to attach to the slotted steel L brackets.  Both cone connector sizes are available at big box hardware stores.

It would be safer to have someone help you to lift the solar panels up and onto the truck camper’s roof.  I was by myself and used a rope.  Also, I made sure to cover the panels to avoid the panels from generating power, to the connected cabling.

10. Sealing the combiner box

Above: Sealing the Combiner Box with Dicor

Next I applied Dicor self-leveling roof sealant to the back/bottom of the combiner box.  I pre-drilled the opening for the cable and laid a cross hatch/line of Dicor sealant to the Combiner Box to bed it down to the truck camper’s roof.

A thick washer between the combiner box and the mounting screw allowed the combiner box to be elevated above the roof of the truck camper enough to avoid squeezing out the Dicor sealant.  This ensures a good seal for the hole drilled into your camper’s roof and the bottom of the combiner box.

11. Combiner Box installation location

Above: Combiner Box installation onto roof of truck camper

The roof location of the Combiner Box was also situated over an interior wall space.  The plumbing vent cap was used to provide a wind break.  This will reduce the contact patch where the combiner box is attached to the roof of a truck camper.

12. Combiner Box with cables

Above: Combiner Box installation with cable runs from solar panels

The 10/2 UV resistant cabling was routed to the bus bars, located inside of the Combiner Box.  It’s important to pay attention to the fact that the solar panels are now producing amps if they are not covered from sunlight.  For this reason, I prefer leaving one leg open (-) and disconnected until my battery bank and charge controller are online.

13. Attaching the solar panel cables to the Unistruts

Above: Solar panel cable attached to Unistrut

I used small connectors for attaching the solar cables to the Unistrut.  These cables were attached with sufficient slack to allow tilting.  These connections were done to avoid attachment to the TPO truck camper roof material.  I avoided using wire ties and other plastic connectors to avoid the issue of UV deterioration.

14. Running the duplex cable through a wall void

Above: The cables running through the wall void

Cables are easy to run through cabinets and wall voids.  The Duplex 4/0 gauge cable, viewed in the above photo, was routed to the charge controller via a cabinet.

15. Specialized cable cutter and crimper

Above: Specialized Cable Cutter and Crimper

I have a cable cutter and crimper, valuable tools for a solar panel installation, available online.

16. Selecting the Charge Controller location

Above: Charge controller location in camper’s cabinet

For optimum solar panel efficiency your priority must be in keeping all cable runs short.  When possible, install a Charge Controller 6-feet or less from your battery bank.  A nearby cabinet or outside storage compartment is often the best choice.

17. Charge controller cables

Above: Charge controller cable installation

When selecting cable size and wire size, use available online charts.  Do not scrimp on your wire/cable to save money as it will reduce your system voltage, negating your hard work and investment.  Also, follow your Charge Controller manufacturer’s recommendations when powering up your controller.  Failure to do so may result in irreparable damage to your Charge Controller electronics.  Most Charge Controllers advise them to have the battery bank leg connected before bringing your solar panels online to the Charge Controller.

18. Charge controller in a truck camper cabinet

Above: Here you can see the MPPT Charge Controller installed in a truck camper cabinet with adequate ventilation for seasonal changes and operational temperatures.

19. Battery bank cables

Above: Heavy duty cable

All weather welding cable (2/0g) was used to allow flexible cables and low resistance.  These cables may be sourced from welding supply centers.  Many of these centers are able to custom cut cable lengths and attach the ring connectors, for a nominal cost.

I use inexpensive clothes-line cord to check the distances for the final cut cables.  This helps me to avoid the mistake of cutting an expensive cable too short, or purchasing more expensive cable than I need.  For cable sizing charts, click over to directwireusa.com.

20. 500 amp shunt cable run

Above: 500 Amp Shunt for Roof Rack Solar

Above: A welding 4/0 cable was used for the cable run to the 500 amp shunt to the adjacent battery bank

21. 500 amp shunt (-)

A shunt was used to measure (battery monitor) the amps traveling from the solar panels and charge controller as it is fed to the truck camper’s battery bank.

22. Buss 60a blade fuse (+)

Above: 60 amp Buss Blade fuse for solar

The positive (+) cable run from the Charger Controller is run directly to the battery bank.  There is a buss fuse installed to provide a break in this run, as well as for needed interruptions and maintenance.  This will protect the electronics from a battery bank failure, or spike.

23. Installation of remote monitors

Above: Installation of remote monitors on the wall of truck camper

Within a truck camper there are many locations where additional monitors may be installed.  Whether in a wall of a cabinet, or a partition wall.  Grouping these monitors provides an organized appearance.

24. Completed installation of remote monitor

Above: Wall mount remote monitor

This wall mount remote monitor was installed where the existing truck camper thermostat is located.  This was a choice to locate the remote monitor out of the line of sight from the seating or sleeping locations – especially if you don’t want to see lights or blinking lights during the night (the monitor shown can be turned off display mode).  Having these remote monitors here will allow you to scan these monitors as you enter your truck camper.  If you are like me, this will become a habit as you scan the monitors.

25. Battery bank choices

Batteries are aged by the number of cycles – complete charge to 50% discharge.  When you hear of batteries “lasting years”, the reality is that the life of a battery is determined by the number of cycles and how much you impacted the state of charge (SOC).

Traditional flooded wet cell batteries will work very well and last for a considerable number of cycles/years.  But, their potential for outgassing requires them to be located in a vented exterior compartment, or in an exterior vented sealed interior box.

In contrast, AGM batteries are much more expensive, but require almost no maintenance, do not outgas, and can be located within an occupied space.

If you are a heavy daily user of your battery banks – like I am – you will find that flooded wet cell and AGM batteries will last about the same amount of time.  Also, if you are not going to monitor your batteries, and/or subject them to serious impact discharges, you might not wish to spend more money for an AGM battery.  In that case, a flooded wet cell battery will serve your needs, for a third of the price of AGMs.

The ultimate choice of batteries is subjective.  But, investing in good batteries should be high on your priority list when planning any solar panel system.

26. Locating the battery bank

Above: Sealed AGM batteries can be located inside the camper because they do not outgas

With sealed AGM batteries, there is no potential to outgas from the batteries making them safe to use in areas occupied by people.  For this reason, I prefer AGM batteries.  These AGM were located in an existing cabinet, of my truck camper, just 3-feet from my battery bank, Charge Controller, AC inverter, and whole house DC cable connection.

27. 300 watts of solar panels on my truck camper

Above: 300 watts of solar on the roof rack my truck camper, bathroom vent underneath can be opened and is usable

This is the completed view of three 100 watt solar panels.  You might note that the bathroom vent is usable under the solar panel installed above it.

Above: 300 watts of solar on the roof rack my truck camper

There is also space so that these solar panels can be tilted toward the sun, and I can step between the panels when necessary.

Your New Source of Reliable Power

For many, there is not enough time, or a desire, to research what is needed for a solar panel system installation on a truck camper.  Just like cooking something for dinner, many desire a recipe, while others would just like to pick up a prepackaged dinner on the way home.  With the previous pictures and above parts list, this article should provide you a project in almost a kit form.

Hopefully this has put a needed tool into your truck camper tool belt.  Once completed, this project will provide years of truck camper power without the restrictions of looking for a campsite with shore power hookups.

To read more of Bryan’s articles on solar and batteries, stealth camping, full-time truck camping, personal safety, and more click here.

Disclaimer: It is your responsibility to make sure that any project you undertake is safe, effective, and legal for your situation.

The post Solar Panel Roof Rack Install appeared first on Truck Camper Magazine.

Cabover handles added, cubby shelves installed, cleaning kits mounted, water hoses hidden, muddy shoes contained, and much more.  A dozen clever mini mods compete for your vote.

Welcome to the May 2016 Monthly Mod Contest.  Please review the following twelve Mini Mods and vote for your favorite.  We will announce the May 2016 Mod Contest winner next week.  For more information about the Monthly Mod Contest, including how to enter, click here.

Click here to vote for your favorite 3 mods from this month’s contest.

March 2016 Mod Contest Entries:

1. Bill Harr, Stockton, California
2005 Toyota Tundra
2013 Four Wheel Camper Hawk Shell, custom build interior

In the Four Wheel Camper Hawk model, there isn’t a good place to grab when you’re getting out of the cabover bed.  For us old guys, this is important for those late night nature calls.

To address this, I added a handle to the push-up board over the bed.  I looked at just a large gate handle, but my wife said not in her camper.

So I found a nice looking stainless drawer handle.  I cut a piece of aluminum flat bar, drilled holes and counter sunk the back for flush allen screws.

The handle is used every time we use the camper.  I’m not sure why I did not add it much earlier.

It took me less than an hour hours to complete and cost under $10.  In my opinion, the skill level of this mod is easy.

2. Scott Roberts, Isanti, Minnesota
2015 Dodge Ram 3500
1995 Hallmark Cuchara

I needed to make the camper dark so my four year old could sleep.  The factory curtains mysteriously ended up pushed to the side, letting the light in, with my daughter’s face pushed against the glass seeing what the others in the camp were up to.

I purchased a few yards of a heavy gray duct material to back the blackout material I bought from the fabric store.  I made curtains/blackout shades that were two inches bigger than the entire window.  I screwed the male part of the snaps to the wall and put the female on my shades.

If you just make the shades without the blackout material, they will let a lot of light and heat in during the day.  In the dinette area, regular curtains bunch up and get caught on the pads.  For some reason they are never closed all the way and don’t stay open all the way either.  If I want mine open, I just unsnap the bottom, roll the shade to the top, and tie them off.

It’s been working great.  I just got back from a week long trip to Michigan and returned with a well rested child.

It took me four hours to complete and cost $60.  In my opinion, the skill level of this mod is easy.

3. Rick W., Carmichael, California
2004 GMC Sierra
2004 Sunlite SB RK

I installed these cubby shelves to add space for maps, books, and small pocket items.  The shelves are installed just under the bed’s overhang.  The one on the left is positioned just above the window valence.  The one on the right is just above the sofa’s back.  The space between the shelves accommodates the range of motion of the fold down sofa bed.

The shelves are made from scrap laminate flooring and a piece of plastic molding.  They are mounted with a few small angle brackets.  Bungee cords are stretched across the front to keep items in place on rough roads.

It took me about two hours to measure, design, and build and cost less than $10.  In my opinion, the skill level of this mod is easy.

4. Roger Odahl, Vancouver, Washington
2008 Dodge Ram 3500
2004 Eagle Cap 950

When we travel I like to keep our truck and camper clean, if possible.  There are actually a few RV parks that allow washing of vehicles.  When we find one, I will clean of the bugs, dirt, and debris from the vehicle and my wife will do the laundry.  Time wise, we both finish at about the same time.

I needed a place to store the long handle wash brush and a long handle towel holder.  I purchased a 5-foot, 4-inch diameter sewer pipe that is threaded on both ends for screw-on caps.  This pipe fits under my rear bumper, which holds the sewer hose on the Eagle Cap 950.

The Orange Grove RV Park near Bakersfield has a great wash area.  Also, the Oasis RV park in Quartzsite, Arizona has a high pressure wash system and it’s right next to the laundry facilities.

To make it stay in place, I drilled 3-3/8-inch holes on the lip that the sewer tube sits on.  I used a small square file to notch a flat section in the round hole.  I had 18-inch, 3/8-inch zip ties available.  I always carry various sizes in my tool bag.  The tube stays quite secure.

I use the driver’s side of the tube to retrieve the brush and handles.  So, when placing the tube, be sure to allow enough room after removing the cap for the handles to slide out.

On the passenger’s side of the tube I keep a tightly rolled 5×7 plastic tarp just in case I have to be under the vehicle.

The wash handle is a 3-foot extension model and the brush is soft bristle.  I got it from Camping World.  For drying off water, I wrap towels around the flat swivel head mop that one can find at Walmart or your local grocery store.  The flat head snaps off the handle and I store that in my propane cabinet along with two towels for the drying off duty.

This is a very convenient way to carry cleaning tools while on the road.

It took me less than two hours to complete this modification and cost me around $20 or less.  In my opinion, the skill level of this modification is easy.

5. Bill Peters, Whitney, Texas
2013 Chevy Silverado
2013 Four Wheel Camper Hawk

One or more of our four-legged children like to stretch out on the bench in our Four Wheel Camper Hawk.  The bench is right below the kitchen counter, which often has something placed on it, unless of course it slides off.  The children did not like being sporadically bombarded by sliding dish pans, so something was needed to block the slide.

The existing countertop had the typical plastic molding inserted into the edge.  I removed this and replaced it with a piece of one inch lathe that had been varnished.  I attached it to the countertop edge with wood glue and staples.  It is one inch wide, so it sticks above the countertop by about a quarter inch.

The original countertop has a rounded edge, so I retained some of the original moulding to cover this area for both appearance and safety: appearance to keep a hole from appearing between the wood and countertop at the corner; safety to not have a pointed edge.  The wood lathe had one edge rounded, and I used a sander to round the exposed ends.

The children are very happy.  Their mother has mixed reactions.  She can no longer easily set something on the edge, but also reduces the chances of inadvertently knocking something off the counter due to the small space.

It took me one hour to complete this modification and cost me $5, plus existing spray varnish.  In my opinion, the skill level of this modification is easy.

6. Tom Stock, Waunakee, Wisconsin
2003 Chevy 2500HD
2000 Bigfoot 9.6

One of the most awkward things to store in a truck camper is a 50-foot water hose which is rarely needed, but nice to have when you need one.

We used to coil a 50-foot hose up and store it in the basement, but found that you can never quite get all of the water drained out of it.  So I started to carry it in the space over the wheel well where a little water won’t hurt anything.

My previous Coachman camper had enough room between the pickup rail and the camper to reach my hand in to pull the hose out of its hiding place.  However, our new to us Bigfoot camper has only enough room above the rail to fit a hose, but not a hand.  So hose removal now required camper lifting.  Not good.

The very simple modification required me to take about two feet of orange cord and tie one end to the end of the hose.  A small loop is on the other end which is held by the keeper pin for my Fastgun tie-downs.

Now the hose is easy stored out of the way by feeding it back and forth into the slot between the rail and the camper with only a small orange cord sticking out and attached to my tie down keeping it within easy reach at all times.

This may qualify for the simplest modification of all time and is as easy as tying your shoes.  It takes all of two minutes if you take your time.  Most importantly, it costs nothing.  There is a reason for hanging on to those broken shoe laces and pieces of string too short to save.

7. Bob Johnson, Milbank, South Dakota
2000 Chevy 3500
2002 Lance 921S

I always like to make things handy.  Truck camping involves maximizing space.

I made a silverware drawer organizer for my Lance 921.  I purchased a bamboo organizer from Walmart, and modified it to fit the drawer.  With the removed section, I made a spice rack beside the range hood.

It took me half an hour to complete and cost under $15.  In my opinion, the skill level of this mod is easy.

8. Alain Larose, Pointe Aux Outardes, Québec, Canada
2011 Ford F-450
2004 Lance 1181

When we want to open the screen door and having something in our hands, it’s difficult to slide the trap.

I drill two smalls holes, one on top of the sliding door and the other in the door handle.  I bent a bicycle spoke.  Et Voila!  It works fine.

It took me fifteen minutes to complete and cost $1.  In my opinion, the skill level of this mod is easy.

9. Charles Coushaine, Punta Gorda, Florida
2001 Ford F350
2012 Chalet DS116RB

Our Chalet double slide has a huge 62 gallon fresh water tank, and a tank level meter that has lights for each third.  These lights are not very accurate, and we usually need much less than the lowest light or twenty gallons, which is about 160 pounds of water.

To more accurately control the weight of the water in my fresh water tank, I put together this nifty metering system to dispense exactly the amount we need.

I put together a water meter with an on/off valve and a small hose extension.  These were easily put together and allow for an exact amount of water to be added to the fresh water tank.

Please watch the video to see how it works:

We know from experience that we use approximately six gallons of water for each day of dry camping we do.  This includes taking showers, washing dishes, drinking water, etc.

Using this metering system allows me to very accurately put water into our fresh water tank and control the weight of the water.  I no longer carry around excess water and weight as I travel.

It took me one hour to complete and cost $35.  In my opinion, the skill level of this mod is easy.

10. Jean Landau-Vogt, Faison, North Carolina
2015 Ford F350
2016 Northstar STC

We got our first truck camper after downsizing from a 35-foot fifth wheel.  One issue was shoes.  We often have wet, muddy shoes from dog walking and there was always a pile of shoes inside the door.

First, my husband cut a piece of expanded metal to fit the bottom of the folding step box and attached it with tie wraps.

It doesn’t interfere with operation of the steps.

I found an over the door shoe rack at Walmart on sale for $5.  Using just the top section, spray painted to make it more attractive, it holds six pairs of shoes out of the way.  The over the door hangers fit right in the cabinet doors making it a non-permanent installation.

Wet and muddy shoes can dry outside out of the weather and we no longer trip over a pile of shoes inside the door.

It took me three hours to complete this modification and cost me about five dollars.  In my opinion, the skill level of this modification is easy to medium.

11. Jim Kauffman, Fernandina Beach, Florida
2015 Dodge 5500
2014 Eagle Cap 1160

I wanted to be able to determine and see the water temperature at the sink during the day or night.

I purchased a LED temperature controlled attachment for the end of the faucet.   When the water is cool, it will be blue water.  When it is warm water, it will be green.  When the water is hot, it will be red water.  The photo shows cold water, which is blue.  This works day or night.

The LED temperature controlled attachment works great, especially at night.

It took me one hour to complete this modification and cost me less then $10.   In my opinion, the skill level of this modification is easy.

12. Robert and June Morrissey, Savannah, Georgia
2011 Ford F350
2012 Lance 850

The reason for this modification is to improve the conversion of the U-shaped dinette from a table setting to a bed in our non-slide Lance 850.

In our truck camper, the table top is used as the surface to support the cushions when converted into a bed for sleeping.  It overhangs the edge by many inches and has no support under it for a large portion of the table.  It also makes it a tight squeeze to get into the bathroom at night as our truck camper does not have a slide.  It does not obstruct passage into the camper during the day.

One small piece of plywood, cut to fit, easily replaced the table top as bed support.  The table top stores overnight in the bathroom completely out of the way.

We usually leave this board in place during the day and during meals as we eat from lap trays.  It doesn’t take up nearly as much hallway space as the original table top did.  It makes for more roomy and comfortable seating to watch a video.  It also makes for a nice nap spot during the day or when traveling without having to climb into the cabover bed.

If we want to return the table to its full upright position during the day or night, the modifying board stores under a cushion.

It took me a quarter-hour to complete and cost $5.  In my opinion, the skill level of this mod is easy.

Click here to vote for your favorite 3 mods from this month’s contest.

Disclaimer: The modifications above are submitted by Truck Camper Magazine readers. It is your responsibility to make sure that any do-it-yourself modification project you undertake is safe, effective, and legal for your situation.

Enter Your Mods Now!

If you’d like to enter mods into TCM’s Monthly Mod Contest, click here. You can enter as many mods as you want, at any time. Good luck mod makers!

The post May Mod Contest: Mini Mods appeared first on Truck Camper Magazine.

Rich Bain, organizer of the 2016 Wine Tour Rally, sent in the following report from the recent rally from May 5-8th.

“The 2016 Wine Tour Rally at Wine Country RV Park in Prosser, Washington was, once again, a lot of fun.  This year the rally ended up with eleven RV rigs and twenty-five people, including a couple who stayed at the hotel across the street.

The weather was fantastic and the pool at the RV Park felt great to cool off in.  Thursday night there was a taco potluck since it just so happened to be Cinco De Mayo.

This rally is a ‘go at your own pace’ kind of schedule.  Some attendees followed each other around to different wineries to do tastings, while others went solo.

On Friday night several rally attendees went to dinner at Wine o’ Clock wine bar and bistro for great food and conversations.  On Saturday some started the day off at a farmer’s market and shopping at antique stores in town.

That evening was the ever popular potluck dinner followed by trivia questions for a prize.  On Sunday morning biscuits and gravy were available for the farewell breakfast.

We announced that we will be taking a year off from hosting a rally in 2017.  But, we also announced that we will be back at Wine Country RV Park from May 4-7, 2017.

Attendees have so much fun at this rally that even though there is no official rally in 2017, five RV rigs have already reserved their sites for next year.”

The post 2016 Wine Tour Rally Report appeared first on Truck Camper Magazine.

TCM reader, Donald Pryor, asked us to ask you about cruise control.  We did, and over 150 readers wrote in with their truck camping cruise control experiences.

Having read all of the responses, a few patterns emerge.  First, most of us put cruise control between 60 and 65 miles per hour.  Second, we use cruise control to rest our fuel foot, get better fuel mileage, and avoid speeding tickets.

Third, we don’t use cruise control in the hills, mountains, traffic, inclement weather, or really anything but straight and dry interstates.  And finally, no one thought cruise control made driving a truck camper less safe, unless you’re not paying attention.

This week’s Question of the Week was, “Do you use cruise control while driving your truck camper rig?”

“Yes, but only on dry pavement.  I set the speed at 65.” – Tom Berry, 2016 Ford F350, Automatic, 2007 Lance 981 Max

“I use cruise control when I’m in relatively flat country.  If there are a lot of hills I will take control to manage speeds up and down the hills.” – John Ballenger, 2015 F350, Automatic, 2014 Arctic Fox 990

“Yes, I do use cruise control.  It does seem to help a little on the gas mileage.  I found if I keep it around 60 to 65, it’s the sweet spot.  I have squeezed 14 miles per gallon out of it.  As far as safety concerns, keep your eyes on the road and watch what’s going on.” – Jeff Hagberg, 2002 F250, Automatic, 2006 Travel Lite 800SBX

“I have experimented with cruise control on long highway sections.  Due to safety and control concerns, I have not used cruise control on state highways or secondary roads.  On long, fairly level sections of interstate highway I have seen as much as a one to two miles per gallon improvement over manual control.  However, I have seen fuel economy decrease using cruise control on long uphill grades, being able to control the power and turbo boost more efficiently with manual throttle inputs. Given the types of roadways I typically encounter in Idaho, I rarely if ever use cruise control.” – John Terescik, 2015 Ram 3500, Automatic, 2015 Arctic Fox 1140

“I only use cruise control while in states that are flat, like Florida, where it’s easy for the truck to maintain my speed without downshifting.  I find using it where there are any appreciable hills causes the cruise control to maintain a perfect speed and it constantly downshifts on hills.  Like big rig truckers, to maximize fuel economy, we should average out the hills by speeding up going downhill and naturally slow down when going up inclines.

While on cruise control I normally keep my speed around 62 miles per hour which is around 1800-2000 RPM – a sweet spot on my hp/torque curve of engine performance.  I actually believe that keeping it off cruise control in hilly areas and averaging out the hills maximizes my fuel economy.” – Charles Coushaine, 2001 Ford F350, Automatic, 2012 Chalet DS116RB

“We use cruise on interstates and other really good roads.  Cruise lets you move around a bit in the seat.  I set it at 65 or below.  It depends on the speed limit.  I never noticed any mileage improvement.  Never use cruise control in the rain.” – Bob Presto, 2008 Silverado 3500, Automatic, 2008 Lance 1191

“Yes.  I usually set the cruise control at the speed limit except on interstate highways.  There, I set it at 65 miles per hour or the speed limit to prevent speeding.” – Carl Mutschler, 2005 Dodge 3500, Manual, 2005 Lance 1181 Max

“I use my cruise whenever traffic allows.  When the speed limit is 65, I set it at 62.  When the limit is 70, I set at 65.  I prefer 62 because I get better mileage, but 62 in a 70 mile per hour zone, in my opinion, is too dangerous.  I have seen too many drivers not paying attention and almost rear ending me.” – Rick Shofner, 2001 Ford F350, Automatic, 2012 Lance 1181

“I set it at 60 and just on highways.  Miles per gallon varies more on terrain than with cruise control.” – Carlos Armas, 2013 Ford F450, Automatic, 2013 Arctic Fox 990

“I always use cruise.  It is the way I drive.  Cruise doesn’t affect mileage, but speed does dramatically.  I usually set it at 65.  If I go 70, it drops the mileage by 10%, and 75 is even worse.” – Larry Leach, 2008 Ram 2500, Automatic, Arctic Fox 810

“Cruise control is used, and it improves mileage just like when the truck is empty or pulling a trailer.  I set it from 60 to 80 miles per hour, depending on my needs.  62 to 70 miles per hour is the most common.  At 62 to 65 I can see 14.5 miles per gallon with no wind.  I find that to be outstanding for a 12,000 pound rig on a 4×4 crew cab dually.

Cruise should never be used in heavy traffic or on slick surfaces such as in rain, snow, sleet or in areas where patches of ice may be found.  Other than that, if you pay attention and have an extra half second following distance to allow time to get your foot to the pedals, I see no loss of safety.

If you have an automatic truck that insists on downshifting on hills or in gusty winds, you may get better fuel mileage off cruise.  If you are in a zen state with your truck, you can sense when it is about to downshift and let off the throttle some to avoid that.  That’s a lot of work and slows your average speed down some as you have to accept some loss in speed to avoid the downshift, high rpm, and extra fuel use.  This is why I like having a clutch pedal, among about 400 other reasons.” – FE J, 2002 Ford F350, Manual, 1988 Bigfoot C-11.5

“As soon as the road conditions are good, the cruise is on.  I set it at 60 miles per hour.  Towing a 16-foot enclosed trailer with my BMW Z3 behind the camper, that’s fast enough.  I get in between 10 to 14 miles per gallon, depending on the wind conditions.” – Richard C Raymond, Chevy Silverado 3500, Automatic, 2005 Palomino Winter Creek 11.5RS

“I run with the cruise control set at 70 miles per hour.  Depending on the road terrain, I get 12 miles per gallon on flat highway, and 10 miles per gallon on the hills/mountains.  I won’t use cruise in heavy rain.” – Keith Lincoln, 2012 GMC 3500, Automatic, 2014 Host Mammoth

“I just completed a 2500 mile road trip from West Virginia through the northern mid-west as far as eastern South Dakota.  I stayed on mostly back roads on the way out, so cruise was limited to some of the straighter stretches of two lane or the few four lane state roads.  Lower speeds meant around 13 miles per gallon.

I was on super slab all the way back from South Dakota, so it was cruise control the whole way.  We never ran more than 65 miles per hour, and we averaged 12.5 miles per gallon.  Midwest roads are way flatter than here in West Virginia, but this trip had some unusually strong headwinds blowing from the north and west.

Using cruise on the super slab keeps my foot from mashing on the right pedal and creeping up in speed.  We seldom drive after dark, but I never use cruise at night on any vehicle.  Too many darting animals about, at least here in West Virginia.” – Chuck Webb, 2012 Ford F350, Automatic, 2015 Alaskan 8.5 C/O

“When on the open road, cruise control is almost always used.  I love it.  I generally keep it at 66 and have not tracked mileage.  There is no safety concern, unless I am napping.” – Bob Nelson, 2015 GMC 3500, Automatic, 2013 Arctic Fox 1140

“Yes, we use cruise control that’s set at about 65, depending on the road conditions and the speed limit.  Our truck is a diesel and the transmission is a 6-speed.  Fifth and sixth gears are very close to the same ratio, so mileage doesn’t suffer much on cruise control.” – William Mike Chiles, 2015 Ram 3500, Automatic, 2013 Lance 1050s

“I use cruise control primarily when driving on highways and open roads.  I choose it to reduce fatigue and I truly believe it optimizes fuel efficiency.  I do not use cruise control in dense traffic or when road conditions are possibly slippery.  That’s when you truly need to be fully focused and at the top of your game!” – John Wells, 2011 Chevy 3500, 6-speed Automatic, 2012 Chalet Ascent S100F

“Yes, I use cruise control.  With the 6-speed transmission, the truck handles hills very well.  We are averaging between 9.5 to 10 miles per gallon at 60 miles per hour.  I am not sure if the cruise control increases miles per gallon, but it is easier to drive long distances.  I have no safety concerns because, if it is windy or raining, I don’t use cruise.” – George Visconti, 2015 GMC 3500HD, Automatic, 2016 Arctic Fox 990

“Yes, I usually cruise around 65 miles per hour on highway.  I don’t really know if it helps mileage as we don’t stay on the highways too long.  We like back roads.  I usually average around 10 or 11 miles per gallon with the camper.  If windy or wet, I don’t use cruise control.” – Rich McGuire, 2006 Ram 3500, Automatic, 2008 Bigfoot 3000

“It depends on type of road (interstate versus two lanes) and the weather conditions (wet versus dry, windy versus no wind).  I do use the cruise control.  I set the speed between 65 and 68 miles per hour.  This does improve the fuel economy.” – Terry Berg, 2013 GMC 3500, Automatic, 2013 Arctic Fox 992

“We generally use the cruise only on the highway and in low traffic situations.  It comes off as soon as it gets crowded, not taking any chances with traffic swings.  The cruise is set to whatever speed the limit and RPMs dictate.  If the limit is 60 miles per hour and the engine/transmission are not working at optimal values (lower gear, fifth and higher RPMs, 2300 for example), I would increase the speed to 63, which tends to drop the revs to 1800 and the transmission into sixth for better fuel economy.” – John Desjardins, 2007.5 GMC 2500HD, Automatic, 2002 Globetrotter

“Yes, always. The Duramax diesel with the 6-speed automatic transmission never has to work.  We have a performance module, with variable fuel settings for types of driving.  Utilizing cruise control (allowing the transmission to determine shift points), the module to driving conditions, and watching the exhaust temperature, gains about a 1.5 to 3 mile per gallon increase over not using the cruise control.  It is too easy to force torque variances with a nervous accelerator foot, causing erratic shift points and turbo boost, both of which compromise fuel efficiency.” – Marv Krueger, 2004 Chevrolet K3500, Automatic, 2005 Arctic Fox B1150

“Whether I use cruise control depends on the type road.  We prefer the small two-lane roads and do not use cruise control on those.  When traveling on larger divided highways and Interstates, I set the cruise at about 65 miles per hour.  It does improve mileage, but I suspect it is due to lower speed rather than the precise consistency.  It also makes a long ride cross-country more comfortable for the right leg and foot.  I do not use cruise control in heavy traffic or very curvy roads or in rain.  The immediate reaction of removing foot from accelerator is delayed slightly when on cruise and you need to slow.” – Randall Rice, 2012 GMC Sierra 3500HD, Automatic, 2015 Bigfoot 2500 10.4

“Yes, I use cruise control most of the time.  In my experience, it reduces driver fatigue.  I typically drive at 65 miles per hour unless I am holding up traffic on a two lane, and then I’ll drive the speed limit.  I find that I can actually get better gas mileage without the cruise control.  It tries to hold the speed to close downshifting to maintain the speed up hills, and down hills to slow itself down to the speed setting.  Without it, I will slow down a little more on the uphill and allow it to speed up on the downhill.  I believe using cruise control is safe because by using it I can be more alert to scan around checking the rear view mirrors, rather than thinking constantly about the speed.” – Philip Bolding, 2012 Ford F350, Automatic, 2016 Northern Lite 8’11” Q SE

“While we don’t use cruise control while truck camping, we do use cruise control while driving to go truck camping.  The cruise is set at 63 miles per hour max on open highway.  On lesser roads we have it set at 59 miles per hour, which seems to yield the best miles per gallon for our rig.  The DuraMax/Allison is a pleasure to drive; just set it and forget it, and no downshifting on inclines.  It just cruises along.  On long declines, the Allison will also compensate to maintain speed.  It is an amazing power train.” – Bill Tex, 2006 Chevy 3500, Automatic, 2013 Eagle Cap

“I always have the cruise on when on good blacktop roads or interstates.  It’s more a common sense thing on other roads.  With my old pop-up pickup camper, a 2002 Starcraft Lonestar and previous truck, a 2011 Chevy 1500, I set the cruise at 65 miles per hour on the interstate, and 60 miles per hour on two lane highways.  With that set up, I got 13.5 miles per gallon on a 4,500 mile trip.

With the heavier, more wind resistant Lance, I cut back to 60 miles per hour.  I’m on vacation, so what’s the hurry?  I ended up with 12.4 miles per gallon for basically the same 4,500 mile trip.

I have very bad memories of wedging my foot just so and trying to keep a certain speed with trucks without cruise.  On long trips it could get downright painful.

If I had to give up all the bells and whistles the new trucks come with, I could survive as long as they left the cruise and air conditioning alone.  Those two items make long road trips relaxing and comfortable.  All that other stuff (way too much anymore) are just expensive little add-ons.

I do think with cruise that rolling hilly terrain hurts mileage.  The old, go fast down hill to get a run at the next one is better for miles per gallon.  But, I’ll give up a little mileage for relaxation.” – Terry Gfeller, Ram 2500, Automatic, 2013 Lance 865

“I am a fairly new subscriber to Truck Camper Magazine, and really enjoy it!  I use cruise control to keep an even speed and ease the strain on my right leg on long drives.  I have no safety concerns about it.  A tap of the brake or button will disengage it.  The truck loses about .25 miles per gallon when using the cruise control.  I think that is because it lays into the throttle harder than I do on the uphill grades.

I usually set the speed to 5 to 10 over the legal limit to avoid becoming an unsafe rolling road block.  There is an exception on the interstates because I don’t like to exceed 73 to 74 miles per hour, and traffic can easily get around me. 11 to 12 miles per gallon is normal, and speeds from 50 to 65 don’t affect it.  At 65+, it may drop to 10.9 miles per gallon.” – Joel Nystrom, 1993 Ram 3500, Automatic, 2006 Arctic Fox 1150

“We have a 8-foot truck camper and a 30-foot 5th wheel.  We also have a large 6.2L V-8 gas engine, which fits our lifestyle.  I have used cruise control on long flat roads with little head winds with no problems.  As soon as there is a head wind or I go up hills, I’d rather know or control what is happening to the shifting.  That usually means that I back off on the gas pedal and turn off the cruise.  I do not believe cruise helps my gas millage, but I have not proved it.

We recently purchased a 2016 Honda Civic with Sensing.  The automatic lane keeping, car in front of you speed sensing, crash protection is wonderful.  I’m not worn out at the end of a long drive.  I’m hoping our truck manufacturers will soon incorporate all these functions into new trucks.  That would make me upgrade my truck right away.” – Thomas Bender, 2011 Ford F250, Automatic, 2009 Sun Valley Apache Chief 8.65 WS

“I always use cruise control every chance I get.  I use it even in town when appropriate.  I’m basically lazy.  The exceptions are when weather conditions are inappropriate (heavy rain, snow packed), or in construction zones with dense traffic.  I don’t know if it improves fuel economy, but most studies I’ve seen suggest that it does.  I use it mostly because it allows me to be flexible in my sitting position at all times which in turn allows me to drive with less fatigue.  Cruise control is a must have on every vehicle that I own.” – Robert Hicks, 2010 Chevrolet 2500HD, Automatic, 2011 Lance 992

“We use cruise control all the time.  We set it on 62.  There is a big difference in miles per gallon if we try to set on 65; as much as two miles per gallon.  Also, it feels a lot safer going slower.” – Janet and Jim Kaley, 2015 GMC 3500, Automatic, 2015 Arctic Fox 992

“Yes!  I use it for several reasons.  First, I have found that it improves my mileage by 2 to 3 miles per gallon.  I set it for the speed limit; it keeps me out of trouble.  It helps keep us more consistent with the flow of traffic.  I also find that it relieves stress and allows me to keep better tabs on the load and handling of the truck with the camper on board.  On the Fords it works hand in hand with the exhaust brake and transmission to keep speeds where they need to be.” – Stan Smelser, 2013 Ford F350, Automatic, 2014 Lance 992

“Driving in the northeast and Canada makes cruise control a limited option. When there is an opportunity on flatter roads it seems that 68 to 70 miles per hour is the sweet spot for my setup.  That puts the least pressure on the engine and also keeps the RPMs high enough to allow the turbo to spool up quick enough to take on moderate hills without forcing a downshift.  There are many environmental and road condition factors involved when choosing the speed, but for best performance at a safe speed, it just happens to be 69 miles per hour.” – Shawn Whalen, 2006 F-250, Automatic, 2007 Arctic Fox 811

“I use cruise.” – Telford Cruikshank, 2011 Chevy, Automatic, 2015 CampLite

“I like to use cruise when I’m on fairly level open roads.  It is a far more relaxing drive with cruise on.  I normally run 62 to 65 miles per hour with or without cruise.  Miles per gallon doesn’t seem to vary that much with or without cruise.  Miles per gallon is in the 13 to 14 range.  I have found that a drop to 58 to 60 miles per hour adds one mile per gallon to my range, but tends to irritate other drivers, so I only do this when traffic is very light.  I believe cruise makes me a safer driver.  I have more opportunity to focus on my gauges, mirrors, and traffic.” – Thomas Wilson, 2015 Chevy 3500, Automatic, 2015 Adventurer 89RB

“Yes, I do while on the Interstate.  I travel back and forth from North Dakota to New Jersey 2 to 3 times a year taking 6 to 8 days, and use it pretty much all the time on these trips.  Most of the time I will start with the cruise at 62.  Going slower definitely helps my mileage.  Because I like to make 1 or 2 stops along the way to museums, local attractions, or whatever, I might set the speed higher later in the day.  I do not have any safety concerns whatsoever about using the cruise control.” – Phillip M Cohen, 2015 Ram 3500, Automatic, Northstar 950SC

“I use cruise control as often as possible and I prefer to travel at 55 miles per hour.  I will boost the speed to 65 on interstate multi-lane travel only if I am holding back any traffic.  The 6.7 liter diesel has no problem holding speed control selected speeds up hill or downhill roads.  Taking it slower does improve miles per gallon, especially in windy driving conditions.  Slow down and enjoy the drive and the scenery.  Arrive more relaxed!” – Gary Gadwa, 2012 Ford F350, Automatic, 2011 Eagle Cap 950

“Yes, I do use cruise with the truck camper.  It works well for me at 62 miles per hour.  Does it improve mileage?  I don’t know.  There are no safety concerns.” – James Burns, 2005 GMC 2500HD, Automatic, 2008 Eagle Cap 850

“I always use cruise control when the road and traffic allow for it.  I wouldn’t do it if it didn’t work for me, now would I?  I tend to go about 65 miles per hour, because that is about the safe minimum, if traffic is flowing.  I usually have boats on top, so I notice a decline in mileage at faster speeds.

I think keeping a constant speed and paying attention to all the other drivers is important, and cruise control facilitates that for me in many driving conditions.  I tend to keep my thumb over the cancel button on the steering wheel, so I don’t flash brake lights if I need a minor speed reduction.  Most cars can’t see past a camper and I might trigger an over-reaction if I was on the brakes a lot.

I also tend to use my turn signals.  I know what the three-second rule is and try not to violate it, so those practices also help with safe use of cruise control.  It just allows you more time looking at other drivers instead of the speedometer.” – David Schmitt, 2007 Ford F350, Automatic, 2014 Four Wheel Camper Grandby

“I use cruise control while on long gently rolling or flat roads, and never in the mountains (we live in Colorado).  It depends on the speed limit as to what I set the cruise on, but have not gone above 75.  When the winds are howling at us, I don’t use cruise.  I would like to think the cruise helps with gas mileage, but using the cruise is to take some of the stress and work off of driving.” – Pam Conner, 2015 Ford F350, Automatic, 2015 Arctic Fox 1150

“We do use our cruise on interstate driving and find that our mileage stays consistent on the high side.  We usually run about 70 miles per hour on the interstate, and have little concerns about any safety issue doing so.  The flip side of that is on two lane and back roads we never use cruise.  Our speed is much lower and safety is a larger concern.  There are pot holes, dips, unknown hard curves, and frost heaves.  No one likes to be airborne with their truck and camper.  Travel safe and often.” – Tom Elliott, 2007 Ram 2500, 6-speed manual, 1999 Lance 835 Lite

“Yes, and even more so now than with the Tundra.  With the Tundra, it would downshift and go to high throttle at the slightest hill without a camper.  With the Duramax, we set the speed for an engine RPM of 2000 and relax and enjoy the ride.  We do use the tow/haul mode for better shifting and downhill brake assist with the Allison.” – Michael Nervik, 2002 Silverado 3500, Automatic, Eagle Cap 1150

“On long trips I also use the cruise control and set it at 62 miles per hour based on the GPS reading.  When I am in a lot of up and down, mountains, or rain, I do not use cruise control.” – Ed Krech, 2006 Dodge 3500, Automatic, 2012 Northern Lite 8-11

“We use cruise control when going down the interstate.  When we get into traffic, drive on steep hills or curvy roads, off comes the cruise control.  For traffic, you need to be ready for the next idiot.  For steep hills, you need to know what and how the engine is performing, and curvy roads should be self explanatory.

For the fuel mileage question, it’s debatable.  In cruise you don’t get feedback on how the engine is performing.  When it’s off cruise, the driver may not accelerate for the slight rise in the road and let it drift down a mile or two and catch up on the down side of the rise.  Whereas the cruise control will do everything to keep speed, and may waist fuel unnecessarily.

For our daily driver, a VW TDI (pre-scam), it’s an automatic (DSG).  On the flat and interstate we use cruise control.  Give us a mountain and curves, and the cruise control comes off and we use the DSG!  Though not quite as fun as the GTI!  Happy Camping!” – Loren Jones, 2013 Ram 3500, Manual, 2013 Lance 850

“When I am on relatively flat grade, such as heading toward the ocean, I use cruise control when the road is dry and the traffic is not heavy.  I set it at 60 or 65 miles per hour and it works fine.  However, most of the time using cruise control on normal terrain, my truck will drop to fifth gear.  Then, it will drop to fourth gear on gradual inclines when otherwise I would drop my speed about five miles per hour and never leave sixth gear.  So I probably use cruise control only about 10% of the time.” – Fred Patterson, 2013 F350, Automatic, 2002 Lance 1161

“I always use cruise when I can.  When there is traffic I have my thumb on the cruise buttons to quickly change the speed or to cancel the cruise control.  I really haven’t compared mileage with cruise on and then off, but when you’re getting, at best, 12 miles per gallon, how much can it matter? I’m either towing a boat or a Jeep and haven’t found safety to be an issue.” – Mark Kuskie, 2013 Ram 3500, Automatic, 2002 S&S Avalanche

“I use cruise control while on the interstates in Wyoming.  With a population of only about 500,000 for the entire state, we don’t have many vehicles on the road.

I usually set my speed at 65 miles per hour and on occasion will push it to 70 miles per hour.  Those are on calm days only.  We have long, empty stretches of highway here.

I haven’t seen any difference in fuel mileage.  I get a solid 12 miles per gallon with or without cruise, except for climbing through mountains of course.” – Bob Watts, 2011 Ram 2500, Automatic, 2000 Fleetwood Angler 8

“My last truck, a gas, not diesel was slightly under powered when hauling our camper.  So, speeding up slightly before hills helped us maintain highway speeds.  It also helped with fuel use.  Our new truck is a beast.  Cruise control works well no matter the topography.  However, I use it when on the flat and become a more active driver when in the mountains to take over the throttle control.  I’m not seeing much difference in mileage when I use it.  It’s a nice option when you are on a long haul.” – Wes Hargreaves, 2016 Ford F450, Automatic, 2006 Snowbird 108DS

“Yes, I use cruise control whenever it is safe to do so.  I always set it for the speed limit of the highway.  If the posted speed limit is 65, I set it 65.  If the speed limit 70, I set it there, and so on.  I don’t like to pull out, and pass.

I find that using this system keeps me covering ground at a pretty good clip, and all those who are in a hurry just go around leaving me alone in the travel lane.  As for saving fuel, I have no idea.  My average fuel flow is 12.2 miles per gallon, and has been that way for years.  I use cruise control strictly as a convenience.” – Ray Steinmeyer, 2007 GMC 3500, Automatic, 2007 Host Yellowstone

“Yes, I use it on four lane highways and on flatter two lane rural roads.  It keeps a more constant speed and I don’t have to constantly look at the speedometer.  When the conditions allow I set the cruise control between 55 and 65.  I don’t see a miles per gallon change using it.” – John and Cathy Strasser, 2012 Chevy 2500HD, Automatic, 2013 Eagle Cap 850

“I use cruise control on I-5, and set mine at 62 miles per hour.  It runs great down the road.  The diesel jumps to about 17 miles per gallon from town driving at 14.” – Bruce Erickson, 2006 Dodge Ram 2500 4×4, Automatic, 2016 Adventurer 86 FB

“I have used it very little.  The truck does better not using it.  It seems to be less on fuel economy when the cruise is used due to the transmission shifting more.” – Roger Jennings, 2015 Ram 3500, Automatic, 2015 Lance 1052

“I always use cruise control, so I can’t say whether it improves mileage or not.  I run 55 if that is the limit, 60 to 65 if 65 is the limit, and 65 if 75 is the limit.  I have no safety concerns about using cruise control.” – Tom Andersen, 2006 Ram 3500, Automatic, 2003 Lance 1121

“Yes, we use cruise control anytime it’s feasible.  Since we tow a Chevy Tracker, usually he sets it at 65 miles per hour.  If not, towing would be dictated by the speed limit, but not usually over 70.” – Hazel Green, 2015 F350, Automatic, 2008 Northern Lite 10.2

“Yes, I use it when the highway doesn’t have too many hills or curves.  I drive the speed limit, but not more than 55 miles per hour.  Otherwise, the gas mileage starts to go down.  My normal miles per gallon is 13 with the camper on the truck.” – Roger Couturier, 2012 Ford F250, Automatic, 2001 Lance 1030

“Any time we are on a long flat road (interstate) we set the cruise control at the legal speed limit or at 62 miles per hour max.  I don’t know if we save any fuel but, it keeps me from speeding.  Both trucks run the quietest between 55 and 62.” – Bill Gage, 2003 Ram 2500 and 2015 Ram 3500, the 2003 is a Manual and the 2015 is an Automatic, 2008 Northstar TC 650, 2017 Wolf Creek 840 on order

“I can get 12.5 miles per gallon at 70 miles per hour on cruise control.  At 64 miles per hour, I get almost 15 miles a gallon.  I use cruise control when I can.  It is fairer to those following you, since you are keeping a steady speed.  Rarely am I in the passing lane, but my truck, when necessary, will get out and pass.” – Mark Turnbull, 2013 Chevy 3500HD, Automatic, 2011 Four Wheel Camper Hawk

“If it’s pretty flat with not much traffic, I will use cruise control.  If it’s real hilly I don’t because it wants to mash”the throttle down at the base of the hill to maintain the speed.  So I believe it actually hurts my miles per gallon because I’m pretty steady with the foot throttle.  When I do use it, I set it at 60 miles per hour.  With my heavy loads I figure that’s fast enough, besides with my 4.10-1.0 axle ratios, I’m turning pretty good.  Thanks for the magazine!” – Scott Barker, 1999 Dodge 3500, Manual, 2015 Lance 1050S

“On the highway out of town, I’m always on cruise and I adjust my speed up or down on the steering wheel.  By far, I have more miles on cruise control then the gas pedal.  I don’t know if my gas mileage is better or not, I assume it is better. I don’t think there is any safety concerns.” – Corbin Sakdol, 2014 Ram 3500, Automatic, 2015 Lance 1172

“Yes.  It gives my foot the often needed break.  I’m not sure about saving gas because so often I hit a little hill and she drops to a lower gear and RPMs shoot up then I hit the off button and the whole process starts over.  I don’t see any safety issue I stay right at 60 miles per hour.” – Bill Cox, 2009 Silverado 3500, Automatic, 2009 Lance 1040

“Yes, all the time.  It depends on the posted speed limit.  If it’s posted 65, I’ll set at 63.  If it’s posted at 75, I’ll set at 68 or so.  Sometimes I set it to 72; depending on how bored I am and wanting to get to the next stop.  It doesn’t really seem to really affect the fuel mileage that I note – maybe one mile per gallon more for slower speed.  While it can add up, it’s minimal.  One thing I did note was that regardless of how fast you set it, on Nevada’s Extraterrestrial Highway SR 375, it’s still some 12 hours to do that route and it’s all kinda fuzzy (just joking).” – Frank Poole, 2016 Ram 5500HD, Automatic, 2016 Arctic Fox 990

“Yes, we have cruise.  It’s great, but not all the time.  In the West there are a lot of small grades that it will shift down and its not really needed. It tries to keep that set speed and will shift several times.  You don’t need to be going 65 over that hill.  On the small hills you can speed up going down and ease up on gas peddle so it doesn’t down shift which should give you better mileage.

It’s always interesting when going long distances you will have a big rig way behind and see him slowly gain on you or you will gain on another truck.   The cruise is so accurate that you know were both using it but it’s set so close to yours.  There is no way to tell if it saves fuel but sure would seem to.  My truck calculates mileage on the last 500 miles so your going a great distance before it changes.  Yes, I love it.” – Frank Niehus, 2007 Ford F350, Automatic, 2007 Arctic Fox 1150

“My kids say I’m a control freak because I never use cruise control.  Someone once told me 53 miles per hour was the best speed for my rig.  Amazingly, it is.  The difference between 53 and 60 is dramatically less gas consumption.” – Janet Carter, 2006 Chevy 1500, Automatic, 2001 SunLite

“I use cruise control as much as possible. I usually set the speed at 60 miles per hour.  It may have a slight improvement in gas mileage.  I don’t have any safety concerns about using cruise control. To me using cruise control is the same with or without the truck camper.” – Charlie Cherry, 2009 GMC 2500, Automatic, 2008 Bigfoot 15C9.5

“We use cruise control on flat terrain set at 60 miles per hour.  I do not notice any mileage improvement with a 460 CI gas engine.  No safety concerns at all.  Just more relaxing on the long road stretches.” – Ron Meredith, 1994 Ford F350, Automatic, 1991 Lance 835

“I only use cruise on long flat highways.  10 miles per hour or 10 KPH over speed limit.  I believe it helps mileage.  Not sure how much.  Take it off on steep hills and long downhills.  Never in the rain.  That’s just my preference.” – George Reid, 2010 Chevy Silverado, Automatic, 1990 Livin lite

“Try to use it when I can.  Rolling hills make it impossible to use sometimes, especially with a head wind.  I try to set it about 60 miles per hour.” – Robert Hubbs, 2002 Dodge 2500 4×4, Automatic, 2010 Palomino Maverick M8801

“I use cruise control set at 64 miles per hour in tow/haul mode to equal 2,200 RPM for 22 miles per gallon highway. When I approach hills I take it out of cruise to better control the RPM to keep from over revving during down shifting.  Works great.” – Tom Adams, 2001 GMC Sierra 2500HD 6.6L D, Automatic, 1998 Northland 10’

“I use cruise control mainly on the interstates and when traffic is light. I usually set it at 5 over the speed limit.  Enjoy crossing Wyoming at 85 Miles per hour.” – Ron Tuskind, 2012 Chevy 2500HD, Automatic, 2012 Four Wheel Camper Hawk

“Yes, I use cruise control on my gas powered Ram 2500 4X4.  My truck camper is fairly light (compared to hard sided units) and lower profile, so I tend to get lead foot.  Setting the cruise control at about 67 miles per hour keeps my fuel consumption acceptable.

I can’t tell any difference in fuel mileage at 67 whether I use cruise or not, but it keeps me from creeping my speeds up over 70 miles per hour, which I certainly would do without setting the cruise control.  A side note: I’m responding to this sitting in my truck camper waiting out a bad thunderstorm in the Oconee National Forest in Georgia.” – Rick Guffey, 2012 Ram 2500, Automatic, 2013 Hallmark Everest

“Yes, most definitely!  I set my speed control to 65 miles per hour which puts the RPMs right at peak torque for my 7.5L.  Around 2,200 RPMs with 4.10 gears gets me the least amount of downshifts and maximum miles per gallon. I have the Banks Powerpack for my truck which puts my peak torque at nearly 500 ft lbs and I like to keep the engine in that range as much as possible.” – Hugh Redmon, 1997 Ford F350, Automatic, 1998 Lance 990

“Yes! use cruise control. I keep it at 60, it’s fast enough to keep up in traffic and ideal for fuel mileage, especially on the long straight runs.” – DuWayne Hermann, 1996 Ford F150, Automatic, 1993 Fleetwood Elkhorn

“Yes, all the time on Interstates or provincial roads.  I use my tow option and set the S Control to 60 miles per hour.  I keep an eye on my pyrometer gauge and when getting close to 1,100 degrees Fahrenheit, I de-engage the SC until I’m over the hill otherwise the turbo kicks in.  My liters per 100 kilo is 14.5 /100. This is towing a trailer with my Jeep.” – Ben Boulet, 2006 Ram 2500 HD, Automatic, 2012 Lance 855S

“I use cruise control on my car, but never on the truck with or without the camper on it.  Gas prices were very high when I bought the truck so I researched fuel efficiency tips.  Apparently using cruise control on hilly or winding roads is a fuel waster as the RPM goes way up climbing if left to the vehicle.  I drive mostly back roads with lots of hills and curves, and try to stay at about 78 kilometers an hour (another fuel efficiency tip).

If there are no vehicles behind me I do not push further down on the gas pedal when I go up a hill allowing the truck to decelerate slightly.  I make up for that rolling down the hill on the other side.  I could not prove this improves fuel efficiency, but I have come to enjoy the mindful slower travel.  When my daughter borrows the truck she always uses cruise control since her ADHD makes speed control a challenge.  I notice that the fuel efficiency is down considerably.” – Michele McLeod, 2013 F150, Automatic, 2000 Travel Hawk 9.5

“Yes, I use the cruise control on the open road with this vehicle which is diesel with a 6-speed transmission.  The vehicle I had before was gas and I did not use the cruise control nearly as often on it.  By using the cruise control, I find I don’t get tired as much and with the diesel and 6-speed transmission.  I believe it helps the gas mileage.” – Jerry Smith, 2012 Chevy 3500, Automatic, 2013 Arctic Fox 992

“I learned about cruise control at an early driving age and feel in love with it.  I have never owned any vehicle that does not have it.  On several vehicles I had to add it after I bought them.  As for my truck now, it has it and I use it always, especially while on the interstates.  As long as the weather is good, and there is no rain, snow or chance of ice on the roadway.  Cruise control can get you into trouble fast under these conditions.  If I get off on secondary roads then I will turn it off.  Also I don’t use it in city driving.

As for fuel economy, I think I do get better fuel mileage while using it verses not.  I usually travel with my sixteen-foot enclosed trailer which carries my Ultralight aircraft and motorcycle.  So I get on the road, set the cruise to 65 miles per hour, put on some tunes and drive to wherever I am headed to next to fly.” – Michael Davis, 2016 Dodge Ram 3500, Automatic, 2016 CampLite 8.6

“Always use cruise control on level to slightly rolling ground, but not on hilly roads as I can feather the accelerator when ascending a hill, and actually help the gas mileage. My speed setting depends on the type of highway I am on: Interstates, my setting would be somewhere near the posted speed limit.  On secondary highways, if light traffic, I like to set it at 50 miles per hour and enjoy the scenery.  Cruise controls are wonderful tools.” – Ellis Tyson, 2006 GMC 2500HD, Automatic, 2000 Sun-Lite

“Yes, any time I can with traffic permitting.  Always on Interstates and long stretches of highway.  I set the cruise to the speed limit up to 65 miles per hour.  Sometimes, when pressed for time, 68-69 miles per hour if speed limit allows.

I don’t know if helps gas mileage or not. More of a convenience thing.  As for as safety goes, I use it the same with or without the camper, using it in traffic conditions that allow it’s use.  My only real concern is going up steep grades when I disengage it to keep the engine from over revving.” – Henry Nelsem, 2007 Toyota Tundra, Automatic, 2013 Northstar Liberty

“It depends on where we are driving.  In the mountains, no.  That’s too hard on the fuel to try to maintain speed up and down hills (and often there’s no passing lane so speed gets adjusted depending on traffic).  But, if we’re on a relatively flat highway, especially a divided one, yes.  If I’m driving, I set the cruise to whatever the speed limit is (in Canada, that’s typically 110 kilometers an hour). If my husband drives, he usually goes a little faster.  I don’t believe that cruise control affects fuel consumption, it just eases your need to maintain your foot position on the gas.” – Melissa Malejko, 2002 Chevy Silverado 2500HD, Automatic, 1981 Okanagan

“I almost always use cruise control.  Referencing the on-board computer, the rig gets up to 15 miles per gallon on flat ground.  14.7 miles per gallon typical with loaded camper on flat ground.  Wind varies miles per gallon.  Combo gets higher miles per gallon at 62 miles per hour than it does at 55 miles per hour.  I’m not a fast driver and I do not use “tow/haul mode” on the above results.

Cruise control would definitely waste fuel in hilly country.  I have learned it best to accelerate in anticipation of hills.  This can simply mean manually accelerating for hills, while still using cruise control.  In real hills, cruise control is a waste of fuel and patience, as it cannot anticipate fuel needs in advance of hills.  Tow/haul push button mode is much better in hilly country.

I have excellent acceleration fully loaded when not in tow/haul mode.  I typically drive 92 miles to the same destination, thereby reinforcing validity of obtained miles per gallon results.

My old 1990 Dodge 2500 Cummins got 25 miles per gallon empty, on cruise, no tailgate.  With the camper, the Dodge consistently got 20 miles per gallon at 55 miles per gallon on cruise control (manually computed).  This with 3-speed automatic and 3.07 (rare) rear axle.  I still own this mechanically excellent truck.

Dually is better for the 3,150 dry/4,000 wet (estimated) loaded camper weight.

The newer truck drives like a small motor motorhome, but in a much more rugged prime mover than any typical motorhome.  For what it’s worth, the dually is much nicer (better suited) than a single rear wheel.” – Gary Seckel, 2006 Dodge 3500, Automatic, 2008 Northern Lite Ten 2000RR

“I use cruise on the interstate.  At 55 miles per hour I can get 13 miles per gallon.  At 70 miles per hour I get 10 miles per gallon.  I try to drive 5 miles per hour below the posted max speed. Having everyone passing us seems to be less stressful then driving up on traffic.  Less stress equals safety.” – Tom Scholtens, 2010 Chevy 2500HD, Automatic, 2013 Bigfoot 10.4

“I do use the cruise as much as I can. Between 60 and 70 and I feel the mileage is better on cruise than off .” – Chip Fraser, 2013 Chevy 2500HD, Automatic, 2015 Arctic Fox 865

“We always use cruise control on interstate highways.  We set it between 55 and 65.  I have found this can improve our mileage as much as 15 percent.  We don’t use it in heavy rain, snow, or wind as I like to have more control in bad weather.” – Dave Jewell, 2008 Dodge 2500, Automatic, 2005 Alpenlite 850

“I use cruise control on light traffic open roads, set at 58, and I can tell from the miles per gallon readout on the instrument panel that it increases my miles per gallon by 1 to 2 miles per gallon, which works out to 5% to 10%.  Occasionally, the transmission will downshift and rev up on hills, in which case I put my foot on the accelerator which automatically puts me out of cruise control and I will take over until I am over the hill.” – David Casterso, 2016 Ram 3500, Automatic, 2016 Cirrus 800

“I always use the cruise to avoid speeding tickets!  I usually set it for the speed limit or a little above so I run with traffic.  I seldom set it above 70 to save fuel.  I can’t imagine not using it because it works so well up hill and down.” – Robert Mayton, 2014 Ford F450, Automatic, Lance 1172

“When traveling the open interstates with a 75 miles per hour speed limit I always set the cruise control at 65-68. When traffic slows or gets heavy, I disconnect it as there is frequent shifting.  I can’t say if it improves economy as that is the way I drive and am happy with the results.  I can’t believe the overhead read out.  Always track expenses and miles per gallon on paper.” – John Hodan, 2006 Dodge Ram 3500, Manual 6-speed, 2003 Lance 915

“Yes, I use cruise control all the time on the interstates when loaded with the camper.  I set it for 70 in the 65 zones in Oregon.  I set it for 73 in the 70 zones in Oregon.  When we hit Idaho and Utah with their 80 mile per hour zones, I set cruise at 75 generally.

Today’s new trucks are amazing.  They can trailer 30,000 pounds and go 80 miles per hour all day long.  A 5-6K camper is nothing for it.” – Elliott Groeneveld, 2016 Ram 3500, Automatic, 2011 Arctic Fox 1150

“With the camper on board, I have driven over 40,000 miles.  I have tried many speed settings using cruise control and Bully Dog to find the best diesel mileages per gallon (miles per gallon) with a fully and various loaded camper on board.

The best mileage of 64 miles per hour has resulted in 12.1 miles per gallon average while driving on the interstate system.  I set the Bully Dog for economic driving. Regardless of the hills, both up and down, the cruise control in concert with the Bully Dog maintains my speed.

Prior to installing the Bully Dog, the best 10.4 miles per gallon was obtained at 62 miles per hour.  When needed, the Bully Dog provides the extra power for hills, passing, etc. With the factory installed exhaust brake on and in concert with the cruise control my speed is maintained within 5 miles per hour when going down hill.

A good question to ask would be “Do you have a chip or other system that increases both your power and miles per gallon?  If so what system is it and how satisfied are you with it?” – Cliff Cizan, 2010 Ram 3500, Automatic, 2013 Arctic Fox 1150

“I use cruise control on the highway.  I did not use it in my previous rig – a 2003 Toyota Tundra with a CampLite camper.  The Toyota downshifted immediately if speed fell below the set speed and used more gas in cruise.  The Ford allows more leeway and does appear to save gas, particularly in tow-haul mode.  I set the cruise control at 58 or 59 miles per hour when traveling and do not have concerns about safety.” – John Yanowicz, 2015 Ford F350, Automatic, Arctic Fox 865

“I always like to use the cruise control when road and weather conditions permit and ideal.  Hilly roads, no.  Winter weather, no.  Any appreciable head wind (above 7 to 8miles per hour), no.  Anything above light traffic, no.

Most of my travel is on relatively lightly traveled rural highways where I can maintain a slower pace  at 60 to 65 miles per hour, which helps miles per gallon and is much safer.  Stopping distance is increased quite a bit when you are maxing out your payload and, unless you are really watching the road ahead, the cruise control can cause you to react just a bit slower and thus travel a bit farther forward before you hit the brakes and start the slow down process.

If you are driving flat terrain with no real headwind, then I find cruise control can slightly increase miles per gallon, otherwise manual throttle control is best.  Driving a 11,000 pound load with a big frontal area, wanting good miles per gallon is just wishful thinking.” – Carlton Basmajian, 2012 Ford F350, Automatic, 2016 Wolf Creek 850

“Yes, I do.  Normally I use cruise anywhere between 50 and 60 miles per hour.  I don’t really know if it improved the mileage, I use it to rest my old foot.  For safety reasons I don’t use cruise in town, heavy traffic, steep hills, or in bad road conditions.” – John Bull, 2004 Dodge 3500, Automatic, 2015 Arctic Fox 990

“We usually use the cruise control set at 65.  We tow a 2009 Honda CRV and the owners manual states the 65 miles per hour is the maximum speed to tow in order to not burn up the transmission.  That’s perfect for us as it gives us about 14 miles per gallon.  We can also enjoy the scenery a lot better.” – Stafford Miller, 1999 Ford F-350, Automatic, 1999 Lance 980

“I do use cruise control.  I set it 65 or 66 and get 10 miles per gallon average.  This camper is taller and heavier than my old Lance where I averaged 12.6.  At 70 on cruise, I’m in the low 9s.  And yes, it is a gas motor.” – George Randall, 2012 Ford F350, Automatic, 2016 Arctic Fox 865

“I almost always use cruise control.  Towing a boat or enclosed with toys inside, approximately 65 miles per hour.  Some will say its unsafe, that depends on many factors, too many to list here.  Having been a traffic investigator for over 23 years, the list of pro/cons is endless.  I don’t pay attention to the miles per gallon.  Who cares if you can afford this stuff.” – Ed Gardner, 2008 Ford F350, Automatic, 2008 Arctic Fox

“I use cruise control when there is no traffic.  I set it based on traffic, between 70 and 75.” – David Carvalho, 2006 Dodge Ram, Automatic, 2013 Alaskan

“I always use it on the highway unless we are in heavy traffic.  For long interstate runs, we love it.  We set it at 65, which is the speed limit and it works just fine.  I suspect it improves miles per gallon and my foot is not active.  I would probably drift higher in speed.  No safety concerns for me since I stay very alert.” – Jim McCrea, 2013 F350, Automatic, 2013 Northern Lite 10-2 CD SE

“Yes, I use the cruise control.  I typically set it for a mile or two per hour under the speed limit.  That keeps me from having to fight the traffic.  I can just set it and forget it.  The only time I will not use the cruise control is if I am in heavy traffic, a two lane winding highway, or climbing up long steep grades.  I typically see better mileage the more I use the cruise control.” – Craig Lucas, 2012 Ford F250, Automatic, 2015 Arctic Fox 811

“We’ve experimented and found that it really didn’t make a difference.  We still get about 10.4 miles per gallon on long trips.  We now use cruise control about 90% of the time on the highway.  The only exception is when we are traveling in the mountains.  Then, we prefer not to use it so we can better control the engine speed.” – Pierre Mongeau, 2013 Silverado 2500 HD, Automatic

“I do use cruise control and I, like you, set it around 62 miles per hour.  Mileage seems to be fairly consistent assuming minimal wind.  I’ve found that following a semi at 70 increases the mileage about .7 of a mile per gallon.  I wish I had adaptive cruise control so it would follow at the same distance and slow and speed up as necessary.  We love traveling in the camper for four or five months at a time during the summer.  I look forward to seeing your results.” – Jeff Kligora, 2007 Chevy 3500HD, Automatic, 2007 Okanagan 117DBL

“Of course I use cruise control.  It makes trips much more enjoyable.  I usually set it for whatever the speed limit is, 65 or 75, depending on the highway.  On secondary roads I may not use it, but that’s the exception, not the rule.  There are no safety concerns with cruise engaged since the truck handles the camper like it isn’t even there.  On the other hand, without cruise, I sometimes find myself driving over the speed limit, so it actually enhances safety for me.” – Phil Rodacy, 2012 GMC 3500, Automatic, 2006 Okanagan 90W

“We use cruise when on the interstate, and provisionally when on a good highway with little chance of someone pulling in front of us.  We generally hang with the big trucks’ speed when on the interstate, but we try to stay away from them and just match their cruise speed.  That’s around 64 or so.” – Jay Knight, 2009 Chevy 2500, Automatic, 2015 Northstar Adventurer

“Yes, cruise is on all the time on most roads and is set at 62 to 63 miles per hour.  Diesel torque makes it a no brainer unless it is an extremely steep climb.  Then, I reduce speed just to save fuel.  I chose 62 to 63 as that is the speed that the CHP allows big rigs to travel in California, despite the statewide archaic 55 miles per hour speed limit for all vehicles towing trailers.

There is little benefit in pulling out to pass 18 wheelers, and then ducking back in and out.  The one exception is in metro areas during commute hours.  I’ll pull into the HOV (diamond) lane and run at its speed, which is usually 70-75 to avoid the bumper to bumper horde of single occupant vehicles hoping to go 25 miles per hour in the regular lanes.  The double yellows that designate the HOV lane are virtual walls and there is no moving in or out except at designated exit/entry points.

I have averaged 13.6 miles per gallon for the 24,000 miles since new in November of 2014.  It is only turning 1500 RPM.” – Joe Sesto, 2015 Silverado 3500, Automatic, 2015 Bigfoot 2500 10.6E

“I use cruise control in the flat lands set to about 55 or 60 depending on the road conditions.  Keeping at these speeds with cruise does improve gas mileage.  When driving in the mountains, I prefer to control the speed easing off going up hills and easing on going down hills.  This improves gas mileage significantly by an average of two to three more miles per gallon. On flat lines I get a consist 15.2 miles per gallon.  On hilly or mountainous terrain I get somewhere between 12.1 to 13.3.  I use the cruise when appropriate because it’s a more relaxing drive.” – Dennis Stitt, 2005 Ram 1500, Automatic, 2013 Travel Lite 840 SBRX

“We use cruise on the straight away.  It set it 60 to 65 miles per hour.  It works very well for us and does save on gas.  It’s not practical on extreme hills or mountain roads.  I never use it in the snow or very wet roads.” – Gerry Reeves, 2014 Ford F250, Automatic, 2014 Lance 825

“I use my cruise control most of the time when traffic and conditions permit, which increases my mileage.  On interstates, l typically drive five miles per hour below the limit and never more 70.

On hills and curvy mountain roads with multiple switch backs I don’t use it. My wife insists that I drive those roads not using cruise control, especially when no guardrails are present.  I have bruises to prove how much she hates that!” – Tom Robert, 2015 Ford F350, Automatic, Arctic Fox 1150

“We use the cruise control almost all the time on the interstate and highways.  We do not use it on the twist and turns in the mountains.  I do not think you see much difference in mileage.  I think it is mainly a convenience factor.” – Matt Wiegand, 2014 Ford F150, Automatic, 2015 Palomino SS-1251

“I use cruise on the flat land and helps in mileage slightly.  In hilly country I do not use cruise and get better mileage.  Letting the speed drop slightly on a hill seems better than the cruise keeping the speed the same.” – Brent Bolton, 2006 Chevy 3500, Automatic, 2001 Corsair

“I keep the speed usually at 55 to 60 on flat, straight road and get 11.5 to 12.5 miles per gallon.  My speed varies on hilly curvy roads and I get 10 miles per gallon.” – Ernest Walace, 2006 Chevy 3500HD, 6 speed, 2005 Lance Max 881

“I do drive with cruise control out on the highway.  I keep it about 73 miles per hour.  I don’t think it affects my mileage.  I do it for the convenience.  I keep a good distance between me and anybody in front of me.” – Jim Hignite, 2012 GMC 3500, Automatic, 2007 Lance 1055

“I use cruise control most of the time when I am on the open road.  I do not use it often when I’m driving in the city because of the stop and go in the Los Angeles area.

It does help with fuel mileage.  With the truck, camper, and the trailer loaded with the Jeep, I get about 13 miles per gallon on cruise and about 11.5 with my foot.  I keep it around 60 to 65 miles per hour.” – Phil Olson, 2011 GMC 3500, Automatic, 2013 Lance 992

“Funny you should mention that.  I just arrived in Flagstaff, Arizona for Overland Expo 2016 which is fifteen hundred miles of droning down freeways from Port Angeles, Washington.  I used the cruise constantly because it does a better job of controlling speed than I do.  It also finds a sweet spot on the on the engine that makes it run quieter and, I think, gives me better mileage.  A solid, capable dependable truck with cruise control, a good stereo, and air conditioning, what more could you ask for If you’re going on a long trip?” – Steve Timmings, 2003 Ford F350, Automatic, 2013 FWC Hawk SC

“I absolutely use cruise control.  I set it for 63 miles per hour and stay in the right lane on the highways.” – Steven Oliver, 1995 Chevy K3500, Automatic, 2000 Lance 1120

“I frequently use cruise control, but with discretion of traffic and the quality of the road.  Most American interstates the sweet spot for cruising with the humongous Arctic Fox 1150 is at 110 kilometers per hour or about 65 miles per hour.  Naturally, you have to be pretty alert to any traffic jams or unusual truck traffic, in which case I prefer to ease up and use manual acceleration to keep in control.

Fuel mileage probably would go up in cruise, especially in hilly and mountainous regions.  However, fuel consumption is the last of my worries as long as the rig performs as intended.  The bottom line is, don’t buy or own a Mercedes, Jaguar, Bimmer, or Ferrari and then try and save on fuel.  It is a contradiction that becomes a party joke.” – Mashoud Janjua, 2003 Ram 3500, Manual, 2007 Arctic Fox 1150

“According to a GM engineer that was contacted by my pickup dealership’s service manager, cruise control and tow/haul mode are best used together.  Set the cruise control low enough the transmission doesn’t shift excessively.  The automation combination is excellent over level or rolling hill terrain, whenever there isn’t a gusty headwind, and wherever the traffic is light.  Engine braking on downhills is even automated and the computers are programmed to protect the engine and transmission from damage.

I don’t use cruise control if the road is icy, very wet, or often, in mountains.  I avoid interstate highways (nothing interesting is found along four-lanes) and metropolitan areas.  So, weather permitting, I use the cruise control and tow/haul combination often.” – Philip Tron, 2009 Chevy 3500, 6-speed Automatic, 2012 Lance 1050

“I use cruise control, usually set at the speed limit of the road.  Yes, it does improve miles per gallon, and I have no safety concerns when using it.” – Tim Chapell, 2013 Ford F150, Automatic, 2013 Palomino SS-1251

“Yes, it works for me, but I prefer driving with my foot.  I never checked miles per gallon.  Safety all depends on how well your truck handles the sway and load.  If it is set up right, it shouldn’t have any problems.  I feel in control at all times, and my wife even drives while I sleep.” – Doug Baughman, 2011 Ford F350, Automatic, 1993 Lance 990

“Yes, we use cruise control.  I prefer to use the cruise.  It is less stress and it holds the speed very well.  Usually I try to stay in the slow lane and run the speed limit.  Yes, the cruise helps with fuel mileage.  The speed is what really effects mileage.  70 miles per hour averages 12.5 to 13 miles per gallon.  We ran about 270 miles of the Natchez Trace at 50 miles per hour.  There is little wind between the trees and we got up to 18.3 miles per gallon.  I don’t believe safety is an issue because the driver has to pay 150% attention whether the cruise is on or not.” – Charles Wade, 2016 Ram 3500, Automatic, 2016 Northern Lite 10-2 EX CDSE

“Absolutely.  I wouldn’t be without cruise control.  I drove trucks, mostly long-haul, for over 20 years beginning in the 1970s.  During that time, the greatest reduction in driver fatigue came from two things; air conditioning, and cruise control.  I wouldn’t want to be without either for any kind of distance driving.

I drive at 60 miles per hour plus or minus 5 miles per hour to adjust for traffic flow.  I choose this convenient one-mile-per-minute speed as a compromise between time and cost.  In addition to burning more fuel, higher speeds accelerate other wear and damage as well.  Tires are particularly vulnerable.  Pitting and chipping of paint and glass also increases substantially as speed goes up.

While I have no hard evidence to support it, I’m sure it does improve your miles per gallon.  It’s just not possible to be as smooth and consistent as a properly functioning cruise control over the course of a long drive.

Be hyper-vigilant or avoid using cruise control on any surface other than dry pavement.  The slight additional time needed for disengagement will hinder recovery from a loss of traction situation.  Also, even in normal conditions, don’t let cruise control carry you into a bad situation by delaying disengagement.  If in doubt, turn it off.” – Mike Siedlecki, 2013 Ram 3500, Manual, 2006 Lance 1191

“We use ours on the interstates and on rural two lane highways.  I set it at 65 or 70 miles per hour.  It’s much more comfortable, and if you have to brake or slow, you can cancel or hit resume.  Safety is not an issue for us, because we don’t do 80+ with a camper or trailer.  In California it’s 55 miles per hour if you are towing.  It gives my right foot a rest and I can keep tap to the rock and roll on the radio!” – Mike Kolinski, 2012 GMC 2500, Automatic, 2012 FWC Hawk

“Yes, I always use cruise control when practical.  I set it for 71 on the highway.  I don’t think it really helps with my gas mileage.  It keeps me from getting speeding tickets.” – Dave and Cheryl Barker, 2014 Ram 3500, Automatic, 2015 Northstar 850SC

“Yes, I use cruise control.  Living and traveling in the west means long distances between destinations and cruise control is a must.  I have a diesel and set the control for about 2000 RPM.  This translates to about 68 miles per hour.  I have averaged over 22 miles per gallon over some legs of my travels, but overall it is about 18 miles per gallon on the highway.  I think cruise control is a big part of that.  Obviously, you need to pay attention to what is going on around you and that includes traveling at a speed that is prudent for the traffic and road conditions.  I don’t see cruise control as a safety issue; more of a tool for gobbling up the miles.” – Tom Waters, 2003 Dodge 2500, 6-speed Manual, 2014 FWC Grandby

“Yes, I occasionally use cruise control.  I normally have to climb over a mountain pass or two, but whenever I find a normal stretch in the road I use cruise control.  I set the cruise at the posted speed limit (normally 55 miles per hour and occasionally 65 miles per hour), but I don’t know if it helps with mileage while hauling and towing such a heavy load.  Safety concerns while using cruise control are sharp corners, oncoming traffic passing oncoming cars, moose stepping out into the road, or an occasional bear crossing.” – Allen Jedlicki, 2012 GMC 2500HD, Automatic, 2014 Wolf Creek 850SB

“I find that cruise control makes driving the camper less tiring.  I seldom use cruise with our Acura or Honda.  With gas prices low, I don’t worry much about mileage and set the speed at the speed limit which is generally 70 to 75.  I get between 11 to 12 miles per gallon.  When diesel was close to $4 per gallon, I set it at about 60 to 65 and would get between 12 to 14.” – Bob Codd, 1997 Ford F350, Automatic, 2003 Summerwind

“I have a Banks equipped with exhaust brake and no pre/post measurements.  Long term use of cruise control gives me the strong belief that the use of cruise control does improve economy, especially in combination with the exhaust brake. I estimate a 5% to 10% improvement.” – Ronald Ramos, 2003 Ram 3500, Automatic, 2001 Adventurer 9’

“I’ll use cruise control while driving any extended period of time.  I won’t use it in mountainous or short curved roads. I set it at 60 miles per hour and my miles per gallon is great!  On average, I get 18 miles per gallon.  I drive like an old man.  I want to live to be one.  We’ve no safety concerns regarding the truck and camper.  Those stem from traffic and road conditions.” – Ralph Bosse, 1996 Dodge 2500, Automatic, 1994 Lance 480

“I use cruise control while I am highway driving, such as on the express way.  I usually set it somewhere between 60 to 65 depending on conditions.  If we are traveling in mountains, even on the express way, I turn it off.  I am really pleased with the transmission in my Chevy.  The tow-haul mode eliminates a lot of the changes I needed to make in my former truck.  I also don’t use cruise control in the rain based on safety.” – Steve Merrill, 2009 Chevy Silverado 3500, 6-speed Automatic, 2007 Lance 992

“I use cruise control while truck camping every chance I can safely do so.  I usually set my speed at 65 miles per hour, but this is subject to change depending on road conditions, how many miles I plan to drive that day, weather conditions, and the price of fuel.  If fuel is more expensive, I will drive slower.  I suspect that my fuel economy is better when using cruise control, but I don’t know for sure.  What I do know is that I’m much more relaxed at the end of the day when I’m using cruise control.  I limit the use of cruise control while driving in the mountains due to the transmission downshifting while the rig is climbing up the hill causing the engine to race to maintain the set speed.” – Eldon Rhodes, 2008 Chevy 3500HD, Automatic, 2011 Lance 1050

“We use the cruise control about 50% of the time and set it for 62 to 63 miles per hour.  We only use it if the road has small hills.  The cruise does not see what is ahead.  It waits until it starts up the hill and does not back off until it gets over the top and then backs off to keep the truck at set speed.

With the cruise off, on hilly roads, we can go easy into the throttle before the hill and ease back as we go over the top.  Then, we can actually speed up a little going down the other side with less throttle.  This would improve miles per gallon over the cruise control.  As with any style of driving, do not let the cruise stay on when creeping up on the vehicle ahead, when the traffic volume increases around you, or on wet slippery roads.” – Howard Currin, 1986 GMC Sierra C3500, 4-speed Manual, 2006 Adventurer 810WS

“When traveling on flat roads, I will set the cruise at 65.  In the Texas Hill Country, I found the truck shifts too much, and gas mileage suffers.  Also the sleeping people appreciate not listening to the roar of the exhaust when it downshifts.” – Matt Engel, 2007.5 Dodge 3500, Automatic, 2010 Capri Retreat

“The use of cruise control for me is done once I’m on the open highway and if there is not a lot of traffic.  I usually set the speed at the posted limit, and no faster than 75.  If there is very high wind/rain or questionable road surface I don’t use cruise control.  As far as miles per gallon with the use of cruise control, there hasn’t been much of a different to worry about.  So far I’ve had no safety problems with my truck’s cruise control, and it has operated in a very predictable manner.” – Alex Blasingame, 2007 Ford F250, Automatic, 2002 Lance 815

“Yes I use cruise control a lot.  It’s typically set around 57 to 58 miles per hour.  This keeps me just below most speed limits and just under 2000 RPM.  I’ve found that 2000 is where fuel mileage really begins to suffer.” – Pete Clark, 2006 Dodge 3500, Manual, 2008 SnowRiver 10-2 RK

“Unless I’m on a crowded highway, I usually use cruise control.  I drive the speed limit, but not faster than 62 miles per hour.  When going up grades, I sometimes take it off cruise control.  One downshift is okay, but I don’t like two.  I wouldn’t travel 9K+ miles a year in my camper without cruise control.” – Ralph Goff, 2006 GMC 2500HD, Automatic, 2001 Lance 845

“Yes, I use cruise control.  I also flat tow a 1947 CJ2A Jeep most of the time when the camper is on.  With speed limits up to 65, I generally set the cruise control at the speed limit.  For speed limits greater than 65, I set the cruise at 65 when towing the Jeep and 70 to 75 with just the camper. Interstate speed limits in Idaho are up to 80 miles per hour.  The Ford 6-speed automatic and EMC (diesel engine brake) do a very good job of holding the speed both up and down hills.  If the road has a lot of curves making it impractical to use cruise control, then I’ll use my right foot.

As far as mileage goes, I don’t notice much difference one way or the other.  Speed and wind have the most effect on my mileage.  I get 13 to 15 with the camper and 11 to 15 with the camper and Jeep.  I live in the Boise, Idaho area so most of my camping miles are up and down hill roads with speed limits in the 45 to 65 mile per hour range.” – Dave Erickson, 2011 Ford F350, Automatic, 2006 Arctic Fox 990

“I do use cruise control while driving with the camper.  I feel it saves on fuel, reduces fatigue, and ensures that my speed is consistent with the posted limits.

I do follow the speed limits and I set the cruise control to the speed limit.  Safety is foremost on my mind; arriving safe without being involved in an accident or having to explain to a police officer why I was going over the speed limit is very important to me.  Following the speed limit helps ensure that all of this happens.” – Dave Riddle, 2015 Chevrolet 3500, Automatic, 2006 Host Tahoe

“Yes, we use cruise control whenever possible.  I set it to the speed limit.” – Andy Scoles, 2003 GMC 2500HD, Automatic, 1996 Coachmen

“I use cruise control to relax my foot.  I set it at 65 or whatever the speed limit is.” – Ron Richardson, 2014 Ram 3500, Automatic, 2012 Wolf Creek 850

“Yes, I use cruise control, mainly on the interstates, but also on light traffic roads that look safe ahead.  Usually I set cruise at 60 miles per hour, or if trucks are ahead, I set it at their speed.  Miles per gallon usually stays the same, unless there is a tailwind.  I do not use cruise in any traffic or slow and go situations.  Common sense always out weights safety when in traffic, but there is always that driver that you have to watch out for.  Good defense driving gets me to where I want to go.” – Charlie Young, 2013 Chevy 2500HD, Automatic, 2012 Riverside 865

“When we purchased the Lance camper, we met the previous owners half way, which turned out to be Memphis, Tennessee.  This is my sixth truck camper, and I used to work in the RV business, so I knew how to set up the truck ahead of time.  I installed a set of Torklift frame mounted tie downs on my truck and Torklift Stable Load overload bump stops for the extra weight.  We have owned the F350 since it was brand new, and it was ordered with a HD camper prep package.

The truck has the 7.3 Powerstroke diesel engine with a six speed manual trans and 4:10 final gear ratio.  The low gear allows the truck to tow heavy loads without straining the engine.  We routinely run in sixth gear which is a 20% overdrive and always use the cruise control.  As for fuel economy, the truck averages 20 miles per gallon empty, 16 miles per gallon with the camper not towing, 15 miles per gallon with the camper towing a 22-foot sport cuddy boat, and 12 miles per gallon with the camper and a 24-foot enclosed car trailer with a muscle car inside.

When we first purchased the camper and left Memphis, I was a little timid at first.  I set the cruise control at 65 miles per hour for about the first 100 miles or so, and then bumped it up to 70 and it did great!  Very stable.

The states we mostly travel in have a 60 miles per hour speed limit for anyone towing a boat, so we usually keep our speed below 65 miles per hour.  I modified the boat trailer a few years back with Dexter 4K electric brakes on both axles and an auxiliary battery that is mounted on the winch stand so that it says dry when launching and retrieving the boat.

The truck has aftermarket high performance brakes on it, and the whole thing starts, stops, and handles wonderfully.  We typically hold the speed to 60 miles per hour with the race car trailer just because of the weight and size of the rig when it is all hitched together.  And we use the cruise control.” – Charles Spray, 2002 Ford F350, Manual, 2001 Lance 1010

“I use the cruise all the time and have never had any problems and feel perfectly safe.  I usually run right at whatever the speed limit is.  As normally would happen, the fuel mileage goes down as the speed goes up.” – Mike Herzfeldt, 2011 Silverado 3500, Automatic, 2016 Host Mammoth

“I always use cruise control on the highway.  It lets me keep my attention
on the road instead of on the speed.  It also has shown to me how to improve fuel mileage.” – Eric Anderson, 2001 Ram 3500, Automatic, 2013 Arctic Fox 990

“I use cruise control when my right foot gets tired.  I never set it over 65 miles per hour.  Using the cruise control actually lowers my mileage when it is hilly.  I can control the accelerator easier with my foot so the transmission does not down shift as much.  I never use cruise in the rain or heavy traffic.” – Erwin Greven, 2002 Chevrolet 2500HD, Automatic, 2002 Lance 921

“Yes, I use cruise control 80 to 90% of the time on interstate roadways.  With speed limits in numerous states in the 75 to 80 miles per hour range, I find that using cruise control keeps me at my preferred speed of around 65 to 70 miles per hour.  It is difficult to keep a constant speed when traffic is going faster than I wish to go.  Instead of moving along with traffic and gauging speed based on keeping up, using cruise control takes the guesswork out of the equation.

Of course, in heavy traffic, inclement weather, and when on rough paving, I disengage the cruise control.  I have not noticed improved mileage, as I am in the 11 to 12 miles per gallon range with the truck camper loaded.” – S. Frank Lucatorto, 2006 Ford F350, Automatic, 2013 Lance 1172

“I normally use cruise control to increase miles per gallon.  I set my speed at 62 miles per hour.  I have found using cruise control gets me one to two miles per gallon more.  If I am in the mountains or a lot of hills, I do not use cruise control.

I use tow haul for safety reasons.  Any time I am in heavy traffic or in town, I always have my truck in tow haul which helps with down shifting and quicker stops.” – Richard Edmondson, 2011 Ford F350, Automatic, 2015 Lance 1052

“I just replaced the automatic with a manual transmission, and I used cruise control with the automatic all of the time, only on relatively flat areas.  The cruise control would disengage automatically on hills when the truck tried to down shift.

As for the fuel mileage, I think it may have helped.  However, I was more concerned about concentrating on the driving and did not want to worry about the speed.  It is more relaxing.  I have never had any concerns about safety at all.” – Steven Cilenti, 1999 Ford F350, Manual, 2012 Arctic Fox 990

“I only use it on flat ground and not in heavy traffic or rain or snow.  I usually set it at 72 miles per hour and 1500 RPMs.  When used, it is a boon to comfort.  Semper Fi.” – Mike Ashworth, 2011 Ram 2500, Automatic, 1989 Jayco

“Yes, I use cruise control when I am hauling my truck camper and even when towing my boat at the same time.  Because the truck has a diesel engine I have no problem maintaining posted highway speeds or less depending on the terrain I am traveling through.  I do feel it saves fuel, compared against trying to keep a steady pace with your right foot.  I mostly use cruise when traveling on a four or more lane highway where faster traffic can safely pass without me having to alter my speed.” – William Steger, 2005 GMC 2500HD, 5-speed Automatic, 1995 Kodiak SC83

“Only when we are on major highways do we use cruise control.  Our speed is set, so the computer is not searching to down shift.  We use the haul mode which changes the shift points of the transmission.  I try for 64 miles per hour on the major highways.  Fuel mileage does not seem to change with the diesel between 58 to 65 miles per hour.  We have been used to towing a 15 thousand pound fifth wheel for many miles, so going from 10.5 to 11 miles per gallon to 12.5 to 13 has been different.  I have always used cruise control even towing the last two fifth wheels without any concerns.” – Eric Devolin, 2007 GMC 3500, Automatic, 2006 Adventurer 106 DBS

“I use cruise control whenever we’re on a road trip.  It’s a much more relaxing way to drive, especially on long flat boring highways.  On curving winding roads, I prefer to have control of the throttle.

It also helps with the fuel economy.  I usually set it between 62 to 65 miles per hour.  This past week we were returning from Pendleton, Oregon so I set cruise control for 66 miles per hour.  Miles per gallon was holding steady at 13.4 as we proceeded on Highway 84 heading into the Columbia Gorge.  Then, the wind hit us head on.  I backed off cruise to 63 miles per hour, and our miles per gallon dropped to 12.0.

When we passed by Hood River my EVIC (Electronic Vehicle Information Center) indicated 80 miles to empty.  I don’t like being that low on fuel and didn’t want to fill up with diesel until we got home to Vancouver.

So I set the cruise to 54 miles per hour, and what a difference.  Luckily the wind died off after Cascade Locks and our miles per gallon increased to 14.3.  By the time we arrived home I still had 72 miles to empty. Considering it’s about 75 miles from Vancouver to Hood River it really makes a difference using cruise control and driving at a lower speed.” – Roger Odahl, 2008 Ram 3500, Automatic, 2004 Eagle Cap 950

“Yes, I use cruise when on the open road and when it is not raining.  I usually set the cruise at 65 miles per hour (assuming the limit is 70).  This way, I usually stay in the right lane and all the others going my way pass us.  We rarely have to pass, but when we do, I go up a little in speed and then drop back to 65.  When in congested traffic I do not use cruise, preferring to drive with manual control.  I do believe that using cruise improves the miles per gallon.” – Dewey Lackey, 2003 Silverado 3500, Automatic, 2014 Lance 1172

“Cruise works for me on major highways.  I don’t use it on most two lane roads.” – Greg Gaser, 2014 Ford F350, Automatic, 2017 lance 1172

“When the road is long and flat with no wind, the cruise is on.  Wyoming does not allow for that very often.  Puckering crosswinds is no place for cruise control.  I slow down and look for the safety of a rest stop.  I also turn it off for steep uphill grades.  I like to keep the RPMs on my 7.3 around 2100 for best miles per gallon.  I just bought a 2016 F350 with the 6.7 diesel.  It is being readied to take over the role of truck camper hauler.  My first trip will be a 3000 mile trip to Key West and then up the east coast to Maine and back to Wyoming.  It will be a great cruise and hopefully most of it on cruise control.  Please, no crosswinds.” – Larry Kelly, 2016 Ford F350, Automatic, 2015 Palomino 8801

“Yes I use cruise control, but never when it is raining.  I set it at 64 miles per hour.  It seems like the 7.3L diesel likes that speed and consumes the fuel in a reasonable manner.  At that speed I usually get around 13 miles per gallon.  Normally we have our fresh water tanks half full (15 gal+/-) and the dry weight of our Lance is around 2900 pounds.  Also the other vehicles that are traveling at 70 miles per hour or more are bunched up in packs, hitting their brakes, and frequently changing lanes.  Take it from some on who used to drive a tractor/trailer for a living, cruise control takes the stress, tension and pain away from your right ankle, knee, leg, and lower back.” – Jerry Bonneau, 1995 Ford F350SD, Automatic, 2002 Lance 1061

“I just bought the 2015 F250 which replaced my 1999 F150 so I am waiting to see how the new truck handles the old camper.  With the F150 4.6 V8 I would use the cruise control when on the freeway set at 60 to 65 miles per hour.  I would keep my eye on the tack and would cancel cruise before it would downshift on an uphill grade holding the gas steady.  I might lose a couple of miles per hour, but I do not have the engine screaming to hold the exact speed.  When in hilly county I would also rest my foot on the accelerator while using cruise control.  Going down hill I would gain a few miles per hour, but usually gained enough momentum to go up the next hill without needing to accelerate.  I would average about 12 miles per gallon on most of our trips.  My best was 19 miles per gallon.  I can’t wait to see how the new truck handles.” – Mike and Nancy Pohl, 2015 Ford F250, 6-speed Automatic, 1985 American Pilgrim 8.5 hardside

The post Cruise Control For Truck Camping appeared first on Truck Camper Magazine.

Truck Camper Magazine reviews a 2016 Northstar Vista, a hard side cabover-less truck camper targeting half-ton trucks.  Can you cut the cabover and still have a full-blooded Northstar?

Northstar Campers debuted the Vista in Truck Camper Magazine on November 17th, 2015.  As Rex Willett, President of Northstar campers explained, the Vista was Northstar’s first cabover-less hard side truck camper in several decades, a real back to the future moment for the 56 year old, family-owned Cedar Falls, Iowa manufacturer.

“Sometimes a cabover-less camper is all people want, or all they need,” stated Rex.  “They don’t need the extra room, not to mention weight and wind resistance, of a cabover.  What they do want is comfort and amenities.  So the concept of the Vista came from Northstar’s history, and from customer requests for a lighter and more simple truck camper solution.”

Rex went on to describe how the Vista was based on the popular Northstar TC650, a floor plan that Northstar has refined for decades.  When we asked if the Vista was also built like other Northstar Campers, Rex answered, “Exactly the same way.  The Vista features our proven wood frame and hung wall construction.”  Rex later talked about the Vista’s full walk-on roof, four-season insulation, thermal pane insulated windows, and deep option list.

The message Rex was conveying was clear.  The Vista was developed as nothing less than fully-realized Northstar hard side truck camper, just without the cabover.  No corners were cut to lower the weight or price.  Even the interior fabrics, cabinetry, countertop, flooring and other materials were the same as other Northstar Campers.  If customers wanted a simpler and lighter hard side Northstar, the Vista was it.

Last month we had our first opportunity to see a Northstar Vista in person at A&M Services in Kittrell, North Carolina.  The A&M team loaded a 2016 Northstar Vista on a truck for us to explore, photograph, and review.

As we approached the Vista, we thought back to Rex’s interview.  Would the lighter, simpler, and cabover-less Vista truly feel and function like a full-blooded Northstar?  Was that possible?  It was time to find out.

Floor Plan Evaluation

As someone who strongly believes the truck camper industry needs to aggressively court and spark younger buyers with affordable half-ton compatible products, I have been an outspoken proponent of cabover-less truck camper designs.  Naturally, I was delighted when Northstar announced Vista.

Within a step or two of walking into the Vista, you’re basically there.  As a short bed camper without a separate bathroom or cabover, there are not a lot of walking around options.  Standing in the center of the unit, you are either in the driver’s side kitchen or the passenger’s side dinette/bedroom area depending on which side of the camper you face.

That’s not to say that the Northstar Vista interior feels closed in.  On the contrary, without a bathroom taking up living space, the Vista feels quite open and spacious, especially for one person.  And while there’s nowhere to really walk to, there is plenty of up-and-about standing room.  Like a kid in a tree fort, I was content and comfortable hanging out in the Vista within minutes.

The driver’s side kitchen is especially impressive with a large window, two-burner cooktop, single bowl sink, and extendable kitchen faucet.  The window and under cabinet LED-light make the kitchen bright and friendly.

The kitchen counter top is essentially divided into thirds; cook top, counter space, and sink.  The sizes of the two-burner cook top and sink strike a good balance between function and use of counter space.

Storage in the kitchen area is nothing less than outstanding in a unit this size.  The upper kitchen cabinetry is ideal for cups, dishes, and dry food.

The two lower kitchen drawers are perfect for flatware and utensils.  Under the drawers is a large double-door cabinet area for more dry food and perhaps a carefully considered trash container.

Inside every cabinet we found neat, tidy, and secure plumbing and wiring, and excellent access to items for service down the road.

Just to the right of the kitchen is the standard Dometic 3.7 cubic foot three-way refrigerator and, on top of the refrigerator, more counter top space.

The 3.7 cubic foot refrigerator seems just right for the cabover-less Vista and the additional counter space is fantastic for food preparation.  Many larger truck campers don’t have this much kitchen counter space.

On the upper driver’s side front wall of the Vista is a 110-volt outlet, 12-volt outlet and USB charging center, coax connection, and a cubby-style storage nook.  This is where an optional 22-inch 12-volt flat panel HDTV and arm can be mounted.

Inside the storage nook was a Winegard FlatWave HDTV antenna that had fallen from its original installation.  Minor repairs like this are routine after campers are shipped hundreds of miles to dealer lots, but a more robust antenna mount may be required.

On the other hand, we have experienced mixed results with Winegard FlatWave HDTV antennas in the field and would opt for a more reliable King Jack antenna.

The center front wall of the Vista offers a wide half-closet with hanger rack, a removable pass-through window, a battery disconnect switch, and a floor cabinet with storage and access to the 20-gallon fresh tank and drains.

Just to the left of the pass-through window is where the fuse panel, hot water heater switch, water pump switch, and hot water heater access panel are located.

What else is inside this forward floor cabinet?

Easy access to the water pump!  For anyone who has ever needed to access their water pump for service (including us) this is absolutely beautiful.

The passenger’s side front wall of the Vista features the notch where the optional drop down upper bunk rests, the optional stereo speakers are installed, and a storage cabinet.

In its closed position, the optional drop down upper bunk offers a considerable amount of storage via two cabinet doors.

Unfortunately, the upper bunk storage is somewhat compromised by the cushions and support boards needed to make the bunk into a proper bed.

Given the size of the Vista, it’s likely that the unit will mostly be purchased by individuals and couples who will use the lower dinette as a bed.  As such, the upper bunk will probably be utilized as storage with the upper bunk cushions and support boards left at home.

Making the upper bunk into a bed reveals one of the most intricate camper elements we’ve seen in some time.  First, you release the upper bunk by opening the cabinet doors and reaching inside the bunk to pull the latches at the front and rear wall.

Then you lower the bunk into the aforementioned front wall notch and a rear wall support.  Following that, a second fold via a piano-style hinge creates the final width of the bunk bed.  Once this is completed, the support boards are placed over the cabinet door spaces and the bunk cushions are brought into position.

Reaching the bunk latches inside the cabinet to release and reattach the bunk takes a bit of getting used to, but is then relatively easy.  Placing the support boards takes a second, but the bunk mattress cushions took some coaxing to lie flat.  If you intend to routinely use the upper bunk as a bed, I suggest going through this process prior to purchase.

I was impressed with the intricacy and clever thinking that went into the upper bunk and would be happy to have its versatility on hand.  That said, we would use this space for storage, leave the support boards and cushions at home, and sleep in the lower dinette.

Speaking of the lower dinette, that was another interesting first-time process.  Having been left to my own devices (always a dangerous proposition) I initially failed to see how the lower dinette bed was assembled.  After talking to myself for a considerable length of time, I figured out that the Lagun table leg must be removed from its mount allowing the table top to be placed as the center bed support.

By typical RV table leg standards, the aluminum extruded Lagun table leg is a modern work of art and a real pleasure to use once you understand its unique loosening and tightening mechanisms.  Hint: gently pull the handles and turn – righty-tighty and lefty-loosey!

Once I had the table arm removed and the arm removed from the leg, the table sat perfectly between the dinette seats making a bed platform.

The cushions then fit neatly forming a 48-inch wide by 80-inch long bed.

How hard was that?  Honestly, talking to myself took most of the time.  If I had to do it again, I would skip the self-conversation, remove the Lagun leg, and make the bed in under a minute.

Reassembled as a U-shape dinette, the lower seating was firm, but comfortable, and the Lagun table steady enough when tightened down into position.

The real benefit of the Lagun table leg is its ability to be quickly and firmly re-positioned out of the way when not in use.

As heavy laptop users who work in their rig, we prefer face-to-face dinettes with larger tables and steadier table support, but the Lagun is a much better solution for a small unit like the Vista.

On passenger’s side rear wall is where the optional Danby 5000 BTU air conditioner is installed.  This air conditioner will run on a Honda EU2000i portable generator and offers ample cooling capacity for the Vista.

When seated in the rear dinette, the air conditioner would be at your back, an uncomfortable and – if on – noisy annoyance.  Ideally, Northstar would include cushions that would fit under the optional air conditioner and under the forward front wall for back support and comfort when sitting face-to-face in the dinette.

Under the dinette is a 110-volt outlet and a 12-volt and USB charging center.  Having these outlets in the dinette is a fantastic convenience for charging laptops, phones, cameras, and other equipment.

The floor under the dinette lifts up to reveal yet another creative storage nook.  The Vista might have more storage opportunities per square foot than any other truck camper.  I’m not sure I found them all.  Some of these storage nooks are not obvious and could double as secret storage locations for valuables.

With the removable pass-through window, I would like to have a window at the bottom of the rear door to be able to see through the unit to the traffic behind us.

I would also like an upper window to bring in more light and be able to see who’s knocking on my camper door (with the optional air conditioner, there are no rear windows on the Vista).  Of course these door windows would add cost, weight, and seals that need to be maintained.

Specifications

Northstar reports the base dry weight of the Vista at 1,260 pounds.  As with all base weights, this represents a unit without options and is very unlikely to represent a unit found on a dealer lot.  To get a Vista at this weight, you would need to special order a unit through a Northstar dealer.  As the 70s Burger King commercial sang, “Hold the pickles, hold the lettuce, and have it your way!”

From our interview with Rex, a more standard dealer build for the Vista will include the four gallon auto-ignition hot water heater, exterior shower, 7.5 gallon grey tank, glass top two-burner cooktop, rear window air conditioner, stereo system, electric jacks, and a Heki skylight.  That’s about 200 pounds of options putting the Vista closer to 1,460 pounds dry.  We’ll come back to this for the truck recommendations.

The floor length of the Vista is 80 inches.  The width of the unit is 84 inches.  That’s right, the Vista is wider than it is long, a very rare occurrence in the truck camper universe.  At 84-inches wide, the Vista is the same width as the Northstar Liberty, 8.5 Adventurer, and Laredo SC and only 6-inches narrower than the 9.5 Igloo U.  As far as width is concerned, the Vista is almost full-size.

At 6’1”, the interior height of the Vista is lower than the 6’4” to 6’9” interior height of Northstar’s larger units.  Although I stand at 6’3”, I was not uncomfortable standing in the Vista.  Maybe I need to stand up straighter, but I never bumped my head or found the ceiling height too low.  Whatever the case may be, be aware that the interior height is lower than larger units, but you’ll have to audition that for yourself to see if it bothers you.  I was fine.

Northstar reported the center of gravity at 23-inches from the front wall.  What we didn’t see was a center of gravity sticker.  As a magazine, we encourage Northstar Campers to mark the center of gravity on all units.

Capacities

Unless you plan on using the outside shower everyday, or wash your dishes and brush your teeth while letting the water continuously run, the standard 20-gallon fresh tank should last a long time.

Above: The 20-gallon fresh water tank is located in the forward floor cabinet

Without an interior shower or flush toilet, there’s just no other drain on the fresh water system.  Even if you do use the outside shower everyday, that 20-gallons of fresh, plus the 4-gallons of water in the hot water heater, should still last two to three days, or more.

Above: An optional 7.5 gallon grey tank is available on the Vista

Which brings us to the standard grey tank, or lack there of.  Without the optional 7.5 gallon grey tank, the grey water from the sink will come right out of the camper and, if so placed, into a bucket or container for disposal.

At 7.5 gallons, the optional grey tanks seems like a fantastic convenience, especially since it’s only retaining sink water.  Unfortunately, that grey tank is externally mounted and not insulated.  Keep this in mind if you plan to go winter camping.

Above: The exterior shower on the Vista

The optional 4 gallon auto ignition hot water heater is more than enough unless you intend to take extended outside showers.  That’s between you and nature to think about.  And everyone wonders how bear therapists put their cubs through college.

The rest of the capacities are right in line with a small camper including one 20-pound vertical propane tank and space for two Group 27 batteries.

As it has been said many times, the 20-pound propane tanks are exchangeable from sea to shining sea at your favorite hardware box store, Wally World, or gas station.  With only one propane tank, you will need to be careful to monitor its level to avoid running out.  Or just regularly fill or exchange the single tank before it runs dry.

All-LED lighting and two batteries in a camper this size is enough portable power for everyone but the Traveling ARC Welding Society.  Add the optional 150-watt Zamp solar panel system and you could practically put a weld or two on the daily menu.  Unless you heavily use an inverter, or camp off-grid in sub-ridiculously cold weather for days on end, it’s hard to imagine needing more battery power for the Vista.

Wet Weight Calculation

Using the standardized Truck Camper Magazine wet weight calculation, let’s run the numbers on the Northstar Vista.

Base Dry Weight – special factory order only

Northstar Vista: dry weight, 1,260 pounds + 20 gallons fresh, 166.8 pounds + 4 gallon full hot water heater, 33.4 pounds + 20 pound full propane tank, 20 pounds + 2x battery, 130 pounds + stuff, 500 pounds = 2,110.2 pounds

Standard Build Options – most dealer orders

Most dealers will order the Vista with 200 pounds of options including the four gallon auto-ignition hot water heater, exterior shower, 7.5 gallon grey tank, glass top two-burner cooktop, rear window air conditioner, stereo system, electric jacks, and a Heki skylight.  This puts the dry weight of the standard build Northstar Vista at 1,460 pounds.

Northstar Vista: dry weight, 1,460 pounds + 20 gallons fresh, 166.8 pounds + 4 gallon full hot water heater, 33.4 pounds + 20 pound full propane tank, 20 pounds + 2x battery, 130 pounds + stuff, 500 pounds = 2,310.2 pounds

Truck Recommendations

The above wet weight calculations include 500 pounds of stuff weight, an important part of Truck Camper Magazine’s standard wet weight calculation designed to represent your cargo: gear, food, clothing, etc.  Even with the impressive amount of storage found on the Vista, it’s unlikely that this amount of cargo will be required for the Vista.

For a more realistic and yet still conservative wet weight estimate, we are going to limit the stuff weight to 250 pounds for the truck recommendations.  This puts the base wet weight of the Vista at 1,860.2, and the standard build wet weight at 2,060.2 pounds.

Even at 1,860.2 pounds, the weight of the Vista is on the high side for your typical everyday half-ton truck.  In other words, don’t expect every Tom, Dick, and Harry half-ton to have the required payload capacity for the Vista.  Having visited dozens of truck lots and inspected hundreds of half-tons in the wild, most F150s (including the newer aluminum-bodied F150) and 1500 series trucks on dealer lots have around 1,800 pounds of payload, or less.

While the industry dials my cell number to rant about the above reality, there is good news.  Finding a half-ton with even 2,060 pounds or more payload capacity in 2016 is as easy as saying, “Hello new truck dealer!  I need a truck with 2,060 pounds of payload.”

Within five minutes they’ll have offered you a water, or coffee, or perhaps a cold soda and helped you to find the truck parameters you require to meet that payload number.  By the time you finish off their donuts, they’ll have tracked down a truck or helped you special order one.  That’s what coffee and donuts are for.

We always recommend special ordering a truck to maximize payload, get exactly what you want, and avoid paying for stuff you don’t need.  Even better, order a three-quarter or one-ton truck so you can tow a boat or upgrade to a Northstar 8.5 Arrow U when the urge hits.

The Verdict

The Vista is not shooting for the high-end truck camper market, but it’s not aiming for the entry-level either.  In having aimed high with the Vista’s build, standard features, and options list, Northstar has created a truly unique product; a cabover-less camper built to the same level as their popular cabover models.

For those who are attracted to the light weight and simplicity of a cabover-less truck camper design, but still want the robust build and appointments of a modern truck camper, the Vista is nothing less than a home run.

Of course being a cabover-less camper means there are some compromises within the very concept of the unit.  If you can’t live without a cabover bedroom, or a separate bathroom, no amount of build quality, standard features, or options is going to sway you to the Vista.  That’s why Northstar builds eight hard side and three pop-up models that have these features.

All too often, the first generation of a new camper feels like prototype.  Not with the Vista.  From the quantity and quality of its interior storage, to the highly versatile and functional kitchen and dinette/bed, the Vista looks and feels like a time-tested and refined truck camper.

At the onset of this review, we wondered if the Vista could truly be a full-blooded hard side Northstar Camper.  Having seen the Vista in person, and having lived in Northstar Campers for one year on two separate occasions, the answer is yes.  For us, we would prefer the space, storage, and capabilities of a cabover and separate bath, but in no way did the Vista feel like a watered down Northstar model.  The Vista is, in every way, a full-blooded hard side.  Well done, Northstar.

Pros
Half-ton compatible if carefully matched
Very functional kitchen with ample two-level countertop space
Seemingly endless interior storage locations – some nicely hidden
Smartly located 110-volt outlets and 12-volt/USB charging ports
Very clever and versatile dinette bed and upper bunk designs
Excellent water, propane, and battery capacities for a small camper

Cons
Optional 7.5 gallon exterior grey tank is not insulated
HDTV antenna needs a more secure installation
Converting the upper bunk and the Lagun table takes some practice
Upper bunk cushions and support boards take up a lot of storage space
Dinette seat backs need cushions
Solid entry door does not permit through-camper visibility

Model Information
2016 Northstar Vista
MSRP: $12,595
Warranty: Two-year structural warranty.  Individual appliances have their own warranties.

R.C. Willett Company, Inc.
3040 Leversee Road
Cedar Falls, IA 50613

Phone: 319-233-3461
Contact Northstar about the Vista
Web: www.northstarcampers.com

The post 2016 Northstar Vista Review appeared first on Truck Camper Magazine.

In the decade Angela and I have been truck camping, we have used an outside shower a total of one time. In that same period, we have winterized outside showers nine times. In light of the facts, we would gladly skip an outside shower on our next truck camper.

To be fair, the one time we used the outside shower, we really needed it. Angela had just completed a competitive mud run and was, as she was supposed to be, a muddy mess. To make matters more interesting, we had borrowed a brand new Ford F350 and a Lance truck camper for a review. There was no way she was going in the new truck or camper covered in mud.

In this highly unusual (for us) situation, Angela used the outside shower to remove the mud and toweled dry as clean as possible before entering the camper. That was the one and only time we have ever used an outside shower. That’s it.

On our current truck camper, we have talked about removing the outside shower, or at least permanently tying it off from the water supply. To prevent a possible leak, we will likely do this at some point in the future.

This week’s Question of the Week is, “Do you use your outside shower?” If you do, tell us how much.  If you don’t, tell us if you would consider forgoing an outside shower in the future.

Click here to see reader responses about outside showers.

The post Outside Showers: All Wet or Worth It? appeared first on Truck Camper Magazine.

Truck Camper Magazine rolls out four all-new T-shirts with no-holds-barred truck camping design and attitude.  Wear these shirts and show your truck camping spirit!

CLICK HERE TO ORDER A TCM T-SHIRT

Two years ago, Angela and I went to the Airstream factory in Ohio for a tour.  In the waiting area they had a small store full of fun T-shirts that celebrated the Airstream way of life.  Naturally we took notes and started dreaming up a line of truck camping T-shirts with serious truck camper attitude, energy, and spirit.

Fast forward about 20-months and I still had not gotten around to designing the T-shirts.  Finally Angela says, “If you don’t design some truck camper T-shirts, we’re going to the 2016 rallies naked!”  I thought about this for a minute, winced, and got to work.  We’re not that kind of magazine.

T-Shirt Design and Development

During the development of our new T-shirt line, we experimented with dozens of shirt types, colors, and designs to get to exactly the right combination.  If Truck Camper Magazine was going to do T-shirts, they had to be fun, bold, and high-quality.

To properly test the quality of the T-shirts and printing, we washed and dried all of the shirts and designs multiple times and wore the shirts during actual truck camping conditions (pavement, off-road, boondocking, etc.).

In all, the shirts were washed, dried, and worn dozens of times with minimal fade and wear.  The print and shirt quality is outstanding.  Even better, all of the T-shirts are printed in the USA, 100% cotton, and pre-shrunk to maintain your selected size.

Once we were satisfied, we brought the final T-shirt prototypes to a half-dozen truck camper gatherings for feedback from fellow truck campers.

The response to the quality and concept was overwhelmingly positive.  Most of what we heard was, “That’s awesome!” and, “I want that one!”

T-Shirts Printed By The Printful

Since we cannot go truck camping with a T-shirt printer, warehouse, and fulfillment center, we have selected The Printful as our premium on-demand T-shirt printer and distributor.  When you place your order, The Printful prints your shirt and ships it directly to you from their California headquarters.

We have used a similar on-demand print service, Lulu.com, for our annual Truck Camper Magazine calendars for almost a decade.  We have researched many on-demand T-shirt companies and selected The Printful for their state-of-the-art direct-to-garment print quality.

Every T-shirt pictured in this article was printed by The Printful and then washed and dried prior to photography.  The shirt and print quality is fantastic.

How To Order A T-Shirt

CLICK HERE TO ORDER A TCM T-SHIRT

To make sure ordering was fast, easy, and secure, we worked as hard on the T-shirt ordering system as we did the T-shirt designs.

To order a T-shirt, simply go to the Truck Camper Magazine T-shirt Store and click on a T-shirt design you want.  A new window will open prompting you to select a T-shirt size from a drop-down menu.  Once you have selected your preferred size, click “Buy Now”.

After you have clicked “Buy Now”, a cart will open showing your selections.  You can then select other T-shirts from the Truck Camper Magazine T-shirt store, or proceed to Checkout in the lower right corner of the cart.

Note the plus and minus symbols top right.  To delete a shirt from your Cart, click on the minus (-) symbol.  To order more than one of a particular design, click the (+) symbol.  It’s that easy.

Shipping Information

USA shipping and handling is $5.00 (USPS) for the first T-shirt and $0.75 cents for each additional T-shirt.  United States orders are shipped within 3-5 days and arrive in the within 7-10 days after printing.

Canada shipping and handling is $8.00 USD for the first T-shirt and $1.00 for each additional T-shirt.  Canadian orders will ship within 3-5 days, and will take 10 days to 2 weeks for delivery.  Tracking is not available for Canadian orders.

Worldwide shipping and handling is $10.00 USD for the first T-shirt and $1.00 for each additional T-shirt.  Worldwide orders will ship within 3-5 days, and will take 10 days to 3 weeks for delivery.  Tracking is not available for Worldwide orders.

Shipments outside of the USA may incur customs fees, depending on destination country.  The fee may vary depending on your order value, country limits, and other factors.  You are responsible for these fees.

T-Shirt Return Policy

If you receive a misprinted, damaged, or defective T-shirt, please submit your claim within 30 days after the product has arrived.  This does not apply to T-shirt size or color.

If your package is lost in transit, please submit your claim within 30 days of the estimated delivery date.  Past 30 days, there are no refunds or exchanges available.

Size Tip: Truck Camper Magazine T-shirts are printed on Gildan Ultra Cotton T-shirts, a very popular T-shirt brand and type.  Chances are you have a Gildan Ultra Cotton T-shirt in your collection.  If so, you can use one of your own T-shirts to check size.  All shirts are unisex.

Claims and returns should be sent to The Printful:

The Printful, 19749 Dearborn Street, Chatsworth, 91311, California
Phone: 1-818-351-7181
Email: support@theprintful.com

The costs occurred through postage and packaging a return to the above address is your responsibility.  When they receive a returned shipment, an automated email notification will be sent to you.  Unclaimed returns get donated to charity after 30 days.

For more information on returns, visit https://www.theprintful.com/returns

Recommended Washing Instructions

Proper washing is one of the most important things that you can do to keep your new T-shirt looking its best.  To get the best possible wear out of your T-shirt, wash it inside out on a delicate cycle.  Use a safe, non-harsh laundry detergent.  Do not bleach and do not wash whites with colors.  Washing in cooler water and drying on low heat is also recommended.

More To Come

We are extremely excited about the new T-shirt line.  If all goes well, we will be releasing more T-shirt designs in the near future.  Angela and I are already wearing them wherever we go, and love showing our truck camper spirit.  It’s about time.

The post All-New TCM T-Shirt Line Announced appeared first on Truck Camper Magazine.

As stated our Frequently Asked Questions, Truck Camper Magazine reviews are wholly independent and posted without notice or review by the industry until publication.

However, the manufacturers are invited to submit a manufacturer’s response to be immediately published, without edit, the following publishing date.

Rex Willett, President of Northstar Campers, sent us the following manufacturer’s response to the 2016 Northstar Vista review.  As he points out, the review overlooked an important feature of the Vista.

“Thank you for the review of the Vista.  It was very informative and a great read.

After reading the review, it appears that you missed one of the dinette bed features, or just misunderstood how it works.

The expandable bed, 48-inches wide and 80-inches long, is another feature of the Northstar Vista.

I have sent a couple photographs showing how the dinette bed is expandable.  It actually pulls out into a wider bed than what’s shown in the review.  This wider bed would be even more comfortable for one or two people.

In the review you had everything set up correctly, but when you pull out the expandable dinette, the rear cushions actually lay flat making a 48-inch wide and 80-inch long bed.

Thanks again for the review.” – Rex Willett, President of Northstar Campers

The post Manufacturer’s Response: 2016 Northstar Vista Review appeared first on Truck Camper Magazine.

The Fort McMurray area wildfires continue to burn out of control and have now consumed over 520,000 hectares (1.3 million acres).  Over 1,000 additional fire fighters from Canada, the United States, and as far as South Africa are now joining 1,200 firefighters already on the scene.  The fire is expected to take weeks if not months to contain in the forested areas.

In response to this crisis, the thirteen RV dealerships of The Adventurer Group are banding together to raise $500,000 to support 100,000 displaced residents from the Fort McMurray area fire.

The raised funding will support the Fort McMurray fire relief efforts of the Canadian Red Cross, Samaritan’s Purse Canada, and registered local community groups that are helping to rebuild the region.

In all five RV companies in The Adventurer Group are participating; Country RV, Four Seasons RV Rentals, Fraserway RV, Roadmaster RV, and Travelhome RV.   These RV companies have committed to:

1. Donate $1,000 from every RV sold in Alberta
2. Donate 10% of retail parts sold in Alberta
3. Donate 10% of retail rental bookings made during the four-week period from the Airdrie and Edmonton rental depots
4. Donate $500 from every RV sold at any of our nine dealerships outside of Alberta
5. Offer $500 credit on an Adventurer Group Cash Card for Fort McMurray residents purchasing an RV
6. Match donations dollar-for-dollar by 700 employees within The Adventurer Group

“Our thoughts and prayers continue to be with all of the victims of the fires,” said campaign spokesman James Epp, owner of The Adventurer Group.  I want to thank and acknowledge the teams at all 13 participating dealerships for their contributions to these trusted organizations.

Samaritan’s Purse Canada, Canadian Red Cross, and other registered community organizations are maintaining a strong presence in the effected areas. They must meet our standards prior to us releasing and allocating the funds. This will help us ensure that the funds will efficiently and effectively make a tangible difference in these tragic circumstances.”

In 2013, four Alberta RV dealers – Fraserway RV Calgary, Fraserway RV Lacombe, Fraserway RV Edmonton, and Fraserway RV in Leduc – partnered with the Canadian Red Cross and Samaritan’s Purse Canada to raise $291,640 to support the 2013 Calgary flood relief efforts.

Fraserway RV Abbotsford also supplied three motorhomes to Samaritan’s Purse Canada as command centers to coordinate relief efforts following the 2012 wildfires in Slave Lake, British Columbia.

The post Fort McMurray Fire Relief: 13 Dealerships, 4 Weeks, $500,000 Goal appeared first on Truck Camper Magazine.

Over 190 Truck Camper Magazine readers expose their bare assessments on outside showers.  As we reveal, some swear by outside showers, while others swear at them.

For those who stick by their outside showers, the primary purposes range from washing dirty dogs, to washing dishes, to rinsing off salt water, sand, and dirt.  Maybe after reading this article the outside shower will be viewed as a more versatile tool.  Then again, it might be off with the outside shower heads!

“I don’t use it often, but like having it for washing dirty shoes, kids, and dogs, especially when dry camping.  I use it like my garden hose.” – Ron Williams, 1997 Ford F250, 2003 Lance 1010

“I have only used the outside shower one time.  This was just before going to bed and I needed to put the fire out.  I was too lazy to get the big pot from inside the camper, so I stretched the hose from the shower to spray on the fire.  It worked great for that but,  except for a mud run or to wash my Jeep, I can not see us using it to get clean.” – Ron Tennyson, 2013 Dodge Ram 3500, 2014 Arctic Fox 865

“I use the outside shower because it beats going in an ice cold lake.  I have had one on my fifth wheel for years and use it all the time.  It’s nice to rinse off before going to the inside shower.” – Ron Perkins, 2015 GMC 2500 HD, 2010 Travel Lite 800SBX

“Yes!  We use our outside shower often.  We use it almost every day we are camping or whenever we need a shower.  We don’t have an inside shower in our small pop-up camper.  We love having a small camper, and trying to fit a shower inside seems excessive.  But it sure is nice to get clean at the end of the day.

We built a privacy surround made of a light shower curtain and PVC pipe that hangs on the side of the camper to use, if needed, but most of the time we are in the boonies and it doesn’t matter.  We have a little washable mud mat that makes the floor.

My wife had to talk me into getting this feature but, as usual, she was right.  And I use it at least as much as she does.  I highly recommend outside showers.” – Alan Dickman, 2006 Tacoma, 2015 Four Wheel Fleet

“We have never used the outside shower on this camper or any previous one.  They have all had outside showers that never got used.  In my opinion, they are just a problem with another penetration of the camper’s skin to allow heat or cold inside.  They are a vulnerable point for water lines to freeze in the winter.  I would rather it not be there.” – Randall Rice, 2012 GMC Sierra 3500HD, 2015 Bigfoot 2500 10.4

“Yes I use it some.  Mostly it’s to aid in draining my fresh water tank quicker.  I would be fine without it.  It’s another easy place to freeze up, but it was not an option I could delete.  That being said, I never used the outside shower in our Northern Lite as it was just so-so.  I really like the set up on the Arctic Fox much better and find it useful.  It has a quick connect and a coiled detachable water hose with a spay nozzle on the end that actually puts out some water pressure.” – Matt Arnold, 2013 Ram 3500, 2016 Arctic Fox 990

“It’s ironic I that just de-winterized my camper and the only leak was the outside shower handle cracked.  I have never used it and would forgo it in the future.” – Joe O’Brien, 2001 Dodge 2500, 2003 Northstar Laredo

“I never used the outside shower, and probably never will.  If they would offer it as something else, we would choose the something else.” – Scott Vallie, 2015 Dodge 3500, camperless, sold it pending a new Host Everest

“It’s a must.  I don’t have to run inside to wash my hands, and sometimes my feet.  The interior of the bathroom stay cleaner.   I also use it to wash fruits and vegetables while cooking outside.” – Richard C Raymond, 2005 Silverado 3500, 2007 Winter Creek 11.5RS

“Yes.  We do a lot of off-road backcountry camping.  No campground means no showers, so it is essential.  It’s also perfect for a wash off after a day on the sand.” – Bruce Seaton, 2008 Ford F350, Four Wheel Eagle

“We have never used our outside shower, would never get it again, and would gladly entertain removing it!” – Charlie Coushaine, 2001 Ford F350, 2012 Chalet DS116RB

“I just used it this weekend when my good dog, Pepper, found something dead to roll in. The outside shower was the fix!” – Becky Tedrow, 2004 Ford 250, Lance 825

“We’ve been from Texas to Alaska and back among other long runs.  I took the time to get a nylon pop-up enclosure and built a little duck-board for the shower.  We’ve used it less than a dozen times, but each time it has been much appreciated.

We use a lot of national forest and state parks that lack showers.  We often spend weeks in the southwest desert.  We used a sun-shower bag before the Palomino, so we think it’s pretty fancy!  Why do they mount them so low?  It would be much more useful if it were at head height.” – Don Henschel, 2003 Ram 2500, 2007 Palomino

“Our outside shower is used specifically to give our dog, Toby, a bath.  My wife and I have never used the shower and have no intention of doing so.  If we were to purchase a new truck camper, that option would not be under consideration.” – Warne Todd, 2000 Ford F250, 2005 Lance 981

“Yes.  We have and use our outside shower.  We travel with our GSP (pointer) and she needs an occasional wet down after some of our hikes.  It’s nice to have warm water available.  She just stands there and gets cleaned up.  It makes the inside of our camper easier to keep clean.

The other use is to rinse out the dump hose when we have to use a dump that has no water available.  The down side with my unit is that it’s a weak point in my camper’s design.  It is not properly heated and can be a freeze point when we are out in below freezing temperatures.  It is something I am going to solve this year.” – Wes Hargreaves, 2016 Ford F450, 2006 Snowbird 108DS

“No, I do not use the outside shower.  I would love to have the extra space in the compartment to store other items like cables, wiring, etc.” – Rita Eshman, 2005 Ford F250, 2013 Adventurer 86FB

“We have used the outside shower on occasion, but probably not enough to justify its existence.  We dry-camp often, and like the idea of not steaming up the camper.  I bought a small lightweight nylon camping shower stall with a folding wood floor that easily sets up right next to the camper shower outlet.  We find that we’re not in one place long enough, or don’t get dirty enough, that a quick sponge bath inside the camper manages to at least keep the flies away!  Here’s another waterless option that we haven’t tried yet.” – John and Marylou Wells, 2011 Chevy 3500, 2012 Chalet Ascent S100F

“We have never used the outside shower.  I have no need for one, and I would rather use the space for storage.” – Thomas Emerick, 2011 Chevy 3500, 2012 Arctic Fox 990

“There are two circumstances where we have used outside showers while using RVs.  One, bathing a dirty fur companion (dog) that decides to roll in something disgusting or that running through mud is fun.  And two, rinsing/washing outdoor cookware (pots/pans) into a dishpan.  Our outside shower has a bypass valve that makes winterizing easier.” – S. Frank Lucatorto, 2006 Ford F350, 2013 Lance 1172

“Of all the years that our various trailers and fifth wheels have had outside showers, my family has used it a handful of times.  However, on our new truck camper we have modified the coiled hose that came with the camper.  The outside shower now has a shower head and we plan on using the outside shower fairly often in place of the inside shower when we are camping out in the boonies.  I’m not one to go days without cleaning up.  I like my showers, so I am willing to stand outside and clean up if necessary.” – Pam Conner, 2015 Ford F350, 2015 Arctic Fox 1150

“We have never used it in the four years since we’ve purchased the camper.  For us, a camper without an outside shower would be fine.  Our outside shower leaks since it froze and cracked.  The previous owner told us he had replaced it once in the past.  We will probably bypass the outdoor shower and not replace it.” – Curtis Grams, 2001 Chevrolet 2500HD, 2003 Palomino Maverick M-8801

“We use it every time we camp at the beach.  The hatch with the shower head stays open the entire time for stuff/kids to get the sand rinsed off.  We can use up 30 gallons in two days just with the shower.  We usually have to carry another 30 gallon tank of water just so we have enough for a three day weekend, like for this Memorial Day.  You’ve gotta do what you’ve gotta do to battle the sand getting in the camper with two young kids.

Now that the OCD wife has an outside shower, I can’t imagine going to the beach without it.” – Shawn Dykes, 2000 Ford F250, 1995 Shadow Cruiser M-11

“Outside showers have been in our last two truck campers.  They are a total waste of space and money for us.  If we ever order a new camper that will not be on our list!” – Pete Clark, 2006 Dodge 3500, 2008 SnowRiver 10-2 RK

“We owned a 1987 Shadow Cruiser for ten years and never used the outside shower as a shower, but did use it as an outside faucet.  I just got back into truck camping from a fifth wheel and I’m looking at the outside shower with much the same questions as you pose.  I’m thinking at the end of the season if I haven’t used it that I will bypass the plumbing to disable it.  I’ll find some other use for the outside compartment.” – Tom Burns, 2005 GMC 2500, 2006 Northern Lite

“All the time!  It’s one of our favorite things about our rig and well worth it.  It is also good for rinsing off dirty feet or shoes.  We use our inside shower much less, I guess since it’s not as fun.” – Nancy Arnold, 2004 Ford F250, 2004 Hallmark Ute

“Yes, we do use our outside shower, but not a lot.  If it’s option to have an outside shower or not, I would still like that outside shower to be on the camper.  We mostly have used it for a quick spray down of our dogs when they’re muddy.  Other times we use it is when it’s very hot outside.  It is a fantastic cooling off station to spray water over our head and body on those hot days.  My vote on the outside shower is a thumbs up.” – Rich Bain, 1999 Chevy 3500, 12-foot flatbed, 2010 Adventurer 810WS

“I like using the outside shower.  I use a plastic water heater drain pan to stand on to avoid making a muddy mess.  There’s nothing to clean up.  I would not forgo one in the future.” – Jeff M, 2015 Ford F350, 2015 Adventurer 89RB

“We have only used our outside shower a handful of times.  When it becomes the most used is when we plan trips to the ocean.  It’s so easy to wash off all the sand that has accumulated on everything!  Our daughter uses it when she comes camping with us to rinse off their dog if they have been walking him through the woods where there was water and mud.  We don’t use it much, but it’s always good to have on hand when needed.  I wouldn’t want to go without one.” – Richard Luczynski, 2015 Chevy Silverado 2500HD, 2015 Lance 1050S

“Yes!  As soon as the weather is warm enough, we use only the outside shower.  We camp in places that don’t have hookups most often, so this greatly extends the time between RV dumps.  We can shower every day without filling our grey water tank.

I made a shower rod out of Pex pipe by fastening a 3-inch diameter suction cup to each end.  I did that by drilling a hole for the screw that comes on the end of the suction cup into the end of a Pex end-cap.  A third suction cup with a light chain goes a few feet higher on the camper wall and supports the center of the Pex pipe.

Carol sewed some magnets into the sides of a shower curtain to hold the curtain in place – onto the jack next to the shower and the truck box.  Carol also found a suction cup rack for shampoo and soap.

Previously we had a shower tent, but this setup goes up more quickly and looks better when not in use.” – Paul Kroeker, 2008 Ford F-350, 2008 Okanagan 85SL

“We used it once when we were camped on the beach at Padre Island National Seashore.  We were isolated and didn’t feel like unloading the stuff stored in our shower.  However, we now have a dog that loves getting dirty.  I now see a long future for our shower.” – Jim and Cindi Goodrich, 2006 Chevy 3500, 2009 Lance 1191

“I use it on every camping trip, mainly because I boondock.  There is no inside shower in my camper.  Even if I had an inside shower, I would want the outside shower as well.” – Bill Haynes, 2006 GMC 2500HD, 2005 Palomino Bronco 1250

“I never do.  I have given serious thought to removing it entirely; one less thing to winterize and it’s a place to have a potential leak.” – Dennis Glow, 2003 Ford F350, 2015 Travel Lite 860SBX

“Yes, and we love it.  When dry camping in National Parks or Forests with limited water, we use wipes and wash our hair outside with a biodegradable soap, when needed.” – Jake and Sylvie Mathis, 1994 Dodge Ram 2500, 2003 Northern Lite 9Q

“Yes, I do for dog washing and for rinsing off after hiking or swimming.  I also use it for rinsing off the grandkids after beach time, and washing dishes so grey water tank doesn’t fill too quickly.  It can be a make shift outdoor kitchen with running water.  The possibilities are endless.” – Donna Stahl, 2006 Ram 2500, 2014 Travel Lite 890

“So far the outside shower is the only one I have used.  Having just switched from an older bare bones pop-up truck camper, and being a stubborn old single coot, I’m one of the rare people who thinks a bathroom in a truck camper is a giant waste of space and weight.  I use mine as a storage room and would gladly have purchased a camper with only an outside shower and a satellite toilet, but I could not find any in my area.” – Terry Gfeller, 2015 Ram 2500, 2013 Lance 865

“I never use it and could do without it in the future.” – Jean lo Landau-vogt, 2015 Ford F350, Northstar 12STC

“I use it during the summer when quad camping.  We get back from the woods/desert covered in dust/dirt.  We wear our bathing suits under our riding clothes and lather up outside.  It feels so good to be clean after riding, and the grey water tank does not get filled up.” – Donald Leddy, 2002 Silverado, 2002 Fleetwood Angler

“I have never used an outside shower, so we would forgo one in the future.” – John Cook, 2006 Ford F250, 1994 Lance Squire

“The only time I use the outside shower is to wash off muddy and sandy foot wear.  The outside shower is not a big selling point for me with a slide-in camper.” – Dan Griffin, 1998 Dodge 2500, Scamper pop-up

“Like you, we seldom use our outside shower.  We certainly don’t use it for the purpose RV salespeople suggest.  Since we often camp in northern Minnesota, the mountains of Montana, or other areas we share with bears, we will never clean fish near our camper. We don’t need to see the wildlife that close.

Would I pick a delete option for an outdoor shower?  No.  They aren’t that much trouble to drain and fill with RV antifreeze.  If it’s standard equipment, I may want to use one sometime to rinse mud from boots.” – Philip Tron, 2009 Chevy 3500, 2012 Lance 1050

“I used the outside shower one time and even then, I didn’t have to.  I was at the beach and was covered with sand, but I had been at the beach for many days and there was sand inside the camper anyway.  I could have just used the inside shower.  The effort to winterize the outside shower takes less than one minute while I’m winterizing the entire camper.  I don’t plan to bypass water flow through it since I might use it one more time.” – Fred Patterson, 2013 Ford F350SD, 2002 Lance 1161

“Do I use the outside shower?  Absolutely.  For everything but showering; washing hands, filling the dog’s water bowl, rising off the dog, etc.  It is a fantastically handy feature.  In fact, part of setting up camp is to pull the shower head out and hang it for easy use.  But I’ve never showered with one.” – Mark Joslin, 2006 Ram 3500, 2005 Lance 1181

“I use the outside shower for showering outside where warmth and privacy allow, and even more to access water without getting into the camper.  I use it fairly frequently in warmer temperatures.

I would prefer to have this feature!  Ideally it would have an inside shut-off to completely bypass the outside shower in winter, thus reducing winterizing efforts.” – John Ryder, 2006 Silverado 3500, 2015 Bigfoot 1500 Series

“Yes, all the time.  It’s not always used to shower, but also cooking outside, washing dishes, cleaning fish, and washing sand off feet. No,  I would never consider giving it up.” – Kenneth Wright, 2006 Dodge 2500HD, 2011 Travel Lite 890

“We love our outdoor shower!  I throw on my swim suit and wash away.  There’s is something about an outdoor shower I love.  You feel extra clean.  Also we have a small eight gallon grey tank.  Traveling with a five year old and three dogs, having warm water on the exterior comes in handy.  Another alternative way we use it is for dishes.  We even custom installed a curtain rod holder made from stainless and PVC fittings.  We have yet to perfect the shower curtain staying still, but will try fishing weights on our next trip.” – Kaleena McGarry, 2003 Chevy HD 2500, 2000 Lance 835

“I use it more than the inside shower.  The inside is a little crowded, so it seems easier outside.  I also don’t camp around a lot of other people very often so that makes it a little easier.” – Scott D, 2001 Ford F350, 1997 Lance 185

“Our dog knows when that little door is open, she best go hide.  We find it it be useful for dogs, but haven’t used it for much else.  It’s handy to have and winterization isn’t a factor, so I would get another.” – Jay Knight, 2009 Chevy 2500, Northstar Adventurer

“I have used it quite a few times and can’t imagine what I would have done without it in several situations.  The most crucial time was for my 65 pound, curly haired dog who had gotten into some yucky form of muck or worse.

Twice its been to wash off my legs after getting them very dirty when a campground shower wasn’t available.  I also find it handy for a dish washing or to fill the dog’s water dish. I place a small folding table below the outside shower with a basin and drying rack on it.  The dog’s water bowl is below it.  When the weather is hot I prefer to set up an outdoor kitchen rather than adding heat and humidity to the inside of my camper.  Having said that I do hate winterizing it and once I had a leaking one and have daydreamed about not getting one.” – Michele McLeod, 2013 Ford F150 HD, 2000 Travel Hawk 9.5

“We have never used our outside shower.  We could certainly do without it.” – Tom Andersen, 2006 Ram 3500, 2003 Lance 1121

“It is used only to clean shoes of goop . I do not need an outside shower.” – Ed Chauvaud, 1999 Ford F250, 2014 Northern Lite 9-6Q

“I have never ever used it in all the campers I have owned.  These days with modern truck campers I see no need for it unless camper itself has no bathroom.” – Mel M, 2012 3500 Ford, 2012 Northern Lite 10-2

“When I had my Bigfoot camper, we would use the inside shower, often even if we were somewhere that had showers.  But that camper was so big I couldn’t get to places I wanted to go.  I never needed, or used, the outside shower.

With the pop-up camper I use the outside shower everywhere we camp that doesn’t have showers, except if it’s freezing cold weather.  Then I set up the inside shower and run the furnace.  On my pop-up, using the outside shower is pretty convenient.” – David Schmitt, 2007 Ford F350, 2014 Four Wheel Camper Grandby

“We do a lot of remote camping in The West and use the outside shower often.  We also use the shower for washing off muddy boots, fishing equipment, and the dog.  I built a teak wood 24-inch square platform to stand on and a 4.5-foot circle shower curtain for privacy and wind protection.  That is easy to put up and take down.” – Fred Stanley, 2012 Ford F350, 2015 Northern Lite Sportsman

“For me, on this new rig, it was a must.  I’m tall and lanky, so in the inside shower I can get ‘er done, so to speak.  On the outside I have room to move, like the deer and the antelope.

But having an outside water hookup has many more uses; even washing dishes out of the repetitive confinement of the camper.  Don’t get me wrong, I love this camper!  It’s a palace compared to the 1977 Western we had to experiment after our move from tenting, which I had to keep my head bent over to move around in.  We prefer off-grid camping and this unit has it all for us; an indoor and an outdoor shower, Ba Da Bing!” – Pete Memmer, 2015 Ram 2500, 2016 Northstar 850SC

“Our Arctic Fox has a shower access door, but comes with a hose and sprayer instead of the shower head.  The hose is more useful, but it should have been in the water control compartment, and not have a separate shower door.

I use it very little and would not request it on a camper.  The water access port in the water control door would be a requested convenience.” – Russell Berquam, 2014 Ford F-350, 2015 Arctic Fox 1140

“I use it for emergency use like when the dog got really muddy or rolled in bear poop.  It gets used about once a year.  I’m glad it is there, and it does not take up much space.  It’s handy.  I have also used it with a pressure washer for small cleaning jobs such as a really muddy OHV toy.” – Bob Nelson, 2015 GMC Sierra 3500, 2013 Arctic Fox 1140

“I have used the outside shower two or three times, and the inside shower not a single time as it is too difficult to clear everything out of the way and set up the shower curtain. We have ended up doing sponge baths as needed.

I would still want to keep the outside shower, but the inside shower on this particular camper is a total waste except for the ability to wash your hair in the kitchen sink using the shower head.  In sum, I would keep the outside shower and eliminate the inside shower.” – Bill Peters, 2013 Chevy Silverado 1500, 2013 Four Wheel Hawk

“We have had outside showers on our motorhome, fifth wheel trailer, and two truck campers.  They were used a lot when the kids and grandkids came to the beach with us and we wanted to clean off the sand before it got into the camper.  They are all grown now and we do not use the outside shower for the two of us.  That said, if we still had little ones with us, I would get the outside shower again.  It was great for keeping the sand out of the RV.  For just the two of us, I would leave it off.” – Bill Billyard, 2000 Dodge Ram 3500, 2008 Palomino 115LHS

“I use the outside shower when I’m remote camping and the weather permits.” – Bruce Colby, 2004 Ram 2500, 2004 Lance 835

“I have never used the outside shower and find it in the way for water hookups.” – Paul Roberson, 2014 Ford F350, 1988 Lance 980

“I don’t have an outside shower and wish I did.  I would have used it on more than one occasion for at least a quick rinse off.” – Laurie Brokaw, 2006 Ford F250, 2010 Lance 850

“Yes we do and just love it.  First off, in our truck camper, we don’t have indoor plumbing except for water to the sink.  In our fifth wheel we do.  But, I enjoy using that one also.” – Rich Sadowinski, 2008 Chevy Silverado 1500, 1989 Sunlite

“I use mine all the time.  I can’t be without one and have installed them when there was none.  It’s a must when beach camping, watering the dog, or just to take a shower out doors when you feel like it.  Give it a try, Gordon and Angela.  Spice things up!” – Frank Paglianite, 2013 Ford F350 SD, 2012 Lance 992

“When we started out camping many years ago, we thought this was a must have, at least we thought so.  We never use it.” – Thomas Bender, 2011 Ford F250, 2009 Sun Valley Apache Chief 8.65 WS

“I have only had the camper a short time, but used the outside shower on a recent trip to wash dishes, utensils, and large cooking items that would not fit well in the small sink inside.  I found that very convenient.  Northstar provides a hose and nozzle that attaches like an air hose.  The nozzle is a garden type pistol handle.  I thought that was odd, but it worked well.  The only other odd thing was that the hot and cold are reversed on this set up, so I would have to be careful if using it for a shower.” – Mike Wenrich, 2014 Ram 3500, 2015 Northstar 850SC

“We have retrofitted our outside shower with a hose bib and use it all the time.  We can connect a standard garden hose for whatever purpose, which is usually to wash off equipment.  We can also attach the hose to a folding table that’s equipped with a sink arrangement.  It’s very practical and I’d be disappointed if the manufacturers took away this feature.  For folks like the author of the survey, perhaps it should be offered as an option.” – Ralph Penton, 2007 Ford F350, 2017 Host Mammoth

“No, I have never used the outside shower.  In fact, I removed the outside shower wand and hose from the camper.” – Douglas Diehl, 2010 Ford F450, 2011 Chalet DS116

“We use the outside shower when we ride ATVs in the mud, at the beach in the sand, and after trail hikes in mud and dirt.  I would not want to remove our outside shower.  I also made a long hose for our shower to wash bikes, motorcycles and anything else that might need cleaning in our outdoor active lifestyle.” – Eric Anderson, 2001 Dodge 3500, 2013 Arctic Fox 990 Milestone

“Yes, we use our outside shower, at least weekly, when dry camping.  It is easiest to reduce grey water collection when camping in arid and remote sites to use the outside shower.  Our Duck Toller (NSDTR) enjoys a quick wash off outside weekly as well. When returning from Scuba diving or surfing, an outside shower is very much appreciated.  An outside shower was and will remain a pre-requisite for the campers we own.” – Robert Berg, 2001 Chevy 2500 HD, 2015 Camplite 8.4S

“I have never used it on any camper I have ever owned and most had the outside shower.” – Ron Moeller, 2014 Ram 3500, 2012 Lance 850

“I live in southern California, so there are no winterization issues for me.  I frequently use my Lance as a mobile beach cabana and surfboard transport.  Because of this, I’d have to say that the outside shower has been used more than the one inside!

I also note that a large number of the pop-up crowd (Wander the West and Expedition Portal) eschew an interior shower preferring their exterior attachments and, perhaps, a privacy screen of sorts.” – Mark Obert, 1999 Ford F250SD, 1999 Lance 920

“I don’t ever use an outside shower.  It’s easier to do a sponge bath inside.  We can just make up a bucket of warm water to use (no hot water heater).  We can either stand in a large folding bucket or on some plastic or a rug.  We have a large sink for washing hair, which is quick and easy.  Most places where we camp do have showers though, so we don’t very often need to use alternatives.” – Vince Kurpan, 2014 Dodge Promaster 2500, Custom Camper

“I never have, but we are retired with no kids.  When our kids were around it would have been handy.  This year we summer in Alaska for our 11th year.  It’s not the best place for outside bathing, but we love it.” – Bill and Shellia Sargent, 2012 Ram 3500, 2009 Lance 971

“We never used the exterior shower on our camper until last weekend.  We were clearing trail on the Superior Hiking Trail out of Finland, Minnesota.  After a long hot day on the trail there were twelve members of the crew who really wanted to clean up and there were no showers at the community center.  I found an outside faucet, hooked the camper up, turned the water heater on, parked a couple of vehicles for screening and all were smiling at dinner.  I would probably want a shower on the next rig.” – Dave Miller, 2015 F350, 2002 Bigfoot 10.6E

“All of my campers over the years have had outside showers, but I have never used them.  My current Lance has an outside shower, but it came with inline shutoff valves, so I turned them off so that I don’t have to winterize the outside shower.  I think that was a good option by Lance.  Yes, I would consider forgoing the outside shower on my next camper.” – David Reese, 2006 GMC 2500HD, 2012 Lance 825

“No, we do not use it.  I would use one if we drove our truck camper on the beach.  It is another item to maintain.  We had to replace the hose and shower head twice due to cracked plastic.” – William Mega, 2001 Ford F350, 2000 Lance 835

“We have never used it on our travel trailer, but tried it once on the Northstar TC650.  If we used the TC650 for more than weekends I’d probably use the outside shower.  Since it’s an inexpensive option, I’m okay with having one.  Winterizing doesn’t add much more to the process.” – Bill Gage, 2003 Ram 2500 and 2015 Ram 3500, Arctic Fox 22GQ and Northstar TC650

“Yes, we use it, and I would not give up my outside shower.  We probably wouldn’t use it in a fairly open campgrounds, but we opt for more private sites in state parks.  So I use it to wash my feet, rinse salt water out of my hair, and even do dishes.” – Donna Marie, 2011 Ford F250, 2007 Lance 915

“Over the last twenty years we have owned a travel trailer, a hard side slide-in, a fifth wheel and currently a pop-up pickup camper.  All have had an outside shower which we have never used!  The only reason that our current camper has one is that it was part of the deal to get a water heater.  I would gladly do without the wasted space, complexity, and winterizing hassle.” – Walt Currier, 1999 Ram 2500, 2015 Palomino 1609

“Yes, we use our outside shower a lot.  I love the hot water for dishes, washing mud and dirt off, and washing off hoses before putting them away.” – Bruce Erickson, 2006 Dodge Ram 2500, 2016 Adventurer 86FB

“We haven’t yet used the outdoor shower in our camper, but we used the one in our prior rig (trailer) quite a few times.  We used it to bathe our dog, wash off rocks we collected (we are avid rock hounds), and wash off other dirty, muddy items.  We’ve never used it to shower ourselves, though.  That’s why we have an indoor shower!  I wouldn’t consider the outside shower a necessity, but I am glad to have it and would want one on future rigs.” – Joanne Hall, Chevy Silverado 3500HD, 2014 Lance 1172

“We have used our outside shower, but rarely.  My wife has used it to wash her hair a few times and I washed off my shoes a couple times.  This has been over a period of twelve years.  If the outside shower were an option, I am not sure if we would get it or not.” – John Bull, 2004 Dodge 3500, 2015 Arctic Fox 990

“I’m just starting with the camper, but I see a future in washing off the dog’s feet before letting him inside!” – Dale Smith, 2013 Ram 3500, 2011 Alaskan 10-foot cabover

“Yes we use our outdoor shower.  We spec’d the outdoor shower in lieu of an inside shower to avoid any humidity build up inside.  Depending on where we are, we either use a shower tent or just shower in the great outdoors if we are alone.” – Eddie Fort, 2006 Ford F350, 2016 Hallmark Everest

“My main concern on outside showers is the possible environmental damage from soap.  I know they have the greenish Bio Camp soap, but I am still not convinced it’s okay to use in mass for showers.  I know people who do use it, but then what?

I do use the shower access for cleaning off mud/dirt on the buggy or anything else.  I’ll clean off the back entrance if I’ve gone though a muddy/dusty area so I don’t track as much in.

The shower is more of a quick hose connection with a nozzle attached.  I’m sure there’s a shower head around somewhere, but for a shower?  Maybe, once I’m convinced the soap is okay to use on the ground.  Until then, not for showering.  Rinsing, yes.  Plus it’s a little c-c-c-cold up here in the Pacific northwest most of the time and uses up the water supply.” – Frank Poole, 2016 Ram 5500HD, 2016 Arctic Fox 990

“No.  Having a larger access door and using the outside shower space for the water pump would have been better.” – Tom Scholtens, 2010 Chevy 2500HD, 2013 Bigfoot 25c10.4

“We use the outside shower more than the inside shower.  We mostly desert boondock camp, so privacy isn’t an issue.  In a campground we obviously use the inside wet bath, but that is a pain with cleanup after.  If we’re not perfectly level there is water pooling somewhere on the floor.  And there are sore elbows from bumping into things in the tight shower area.

Outside is better.  I also learned from one of the camper forums that running the water heater for 10 to 15 minutes before the shower, depending on ambient temperature, will heat the water to the right temperature using only the hot valve.  This saves water trying to get the cold/hot mix right.” – Gary Louthan, 2013 Ram 3500, 2009 Lance 830

“When we travel with our camper 4×4, we use the outside shower daily, always with hot water. We use the outside shower when we are in the field.  When this is not possible, we shower inside the vehicle.  We never would eliminate the outside shower.” – Frederic Amorós, 2011 Toyota Hilux, 2011 PSI-AZALAÏ (France)

“I love my outside shower and use it all the time.  I have never actually taken a shower with it, but I use it as a dish washing station.  I put a table next to it with two plastic dish pans and I am all set.  This is especially useful when we are dry camping and I don’t want to use up my grey water or I would rather be outside, which is always.

Please note you have to be careful with the soap you use so that you don’t negatively impact the environment.  I use Dr Bronner’s All in One.” – Lisa Cooper, 2013 Chevy 2500, 2007 Lance 845

“I currently have a wet bath and never use the shower, but I keep thinking I would use it if it was outside.  I’m planning on installing one this summer.” – Tom Chappuis, 2006 Dodge Ram 3500, 1989 Lance 9000

“I’ve used our outside shower maybe twice since we purchased our Chalet and not for showering, but for rinsing off shoes and stuff like that.  In my opinion, it should be considered an option with a price tag, so buyers can make an informed decision on whether it something they want to pay for.  I just view it as something that I will need to repair at some point during ownership.” – Scott Elliott, 2007 Ford F350, 2013 Chalet TS116

“We have never used the outside shower.  As a matter of fact, I closed the valves going to the outside shower, and I have never turned them back on.  We have had the camper over six years.  Also, we used to have a motorhome and travel trailer, and did the same thing; we have never used them.” – Bruce Neumann, 2006 Dodge Ram 3500, 2008 Okanagan 96DB

“We do not have the option of having an outdoor shower but, if we did, I would use it semi-regularly.  I’m a pretty big boy and find the bathroom/shower cramped.” – John Desjardins, 2007.5 GMC 2500HD, 2002 Globetrotter

“Our camper is new to us, but I foresee using the outside shower this fall when we camp on the beach in Baja after swimming/fishing.” – Michael Nervik, 2002 Silverado 3500, 2004 Eagle Cap 1150

“Yes, it’s perfect for getting out of the ocean and a much simpler and cleaner way to shower.  An outside shower is a must!” – Martin Merz, 1997 Ford F250, 1997 Lance 815

“We have never used the outside shower, and would forgo one in our next truck camper.” – Brian Brown, 2000 Ford F550, 2000 Lance 1010

“An outside shower is a necessity in my book.  I mostly camp in more private locations (as opposed to a campground), so privacy isn’t an issue.  The rest of my camping is done on the beach where it’s great to be able to rinse the salt and sand off easily without taking a whole shower inside.” – Eric W, 1983 Chevy K30, 1999 Coachmen Ranger

“No, not at all.  It’s a source of water leaks over time.  If I need a shower, I use the inside shower quickly or use a truck stop or park facilities.  When in the Wyoming backcountry, who takes a shower?” – Phillip Chevela, 2012 Ford F350, 2005 Northstar Igloo

“We have used the outside shower once, but I have winterized it 14 times.” – Erwin Greven, 2002 Chevrolet 2500HD, 2002 Lance 921

“So far, we haven’t used it on either our big trailer, a 28-foot Cougar, or the truck camper.  However, if we ever get to a beach, it will come in very handy to wash the sand off.

I off-road, so sometimes my Jeep gets covered with heavy dust.  I can use the water to clean the windshield of the dust, grit and sand without leaving a mess.  If the kids were along, it would be an absolute must since they get so dirty.  I can also use it to wash my canoe so quagga mussels don’t get into the water.” – Harry Palmer, 2008 Dodge Ram 2500, 2008 Lance 915

“We have used our outdoor shower to wash down and get the sand off when camping near the beach.  We also wash off dirty boots and sandals.  Last week while camping I used it to wash the truck and camper.  I hate those darn bugs.

I would keep the outdoor shower.  I don’t use it that much, but when I need it, it’s nice to have.  And it only takes an extra two minutes to winterize it.” – Dave and Cheryl Barker, 2014 Ram 3500, 2015 Northstar 850sc

“I wish I had an outside shower!  If I had an outside shower I would never use the inside shower.” – Anonymous Anon, 2001 Chevy 2500HD, 2006 Lance 815

“I have never used the outside shower.  If it was an option I would opt out.  I think most manufactures add it because it’s a cheap way to add something that some may see as an upgrade.  That is until they forget to winterize it and their plumbing has to be repaired.” – Eddie Hayden, 2005 Ram 2500, 2013 Palomino Bronco

“I’ve also only used it a few times.  Having said that, I think it should be included in all campers.  It only takes an extra minute or so during winterization.  I think they’re most handy for people with kids and dogs.” – Dave MacArthur, 2008 Ford F350, 2010 Lance 992

“We use the shower very much to clean up before entering our rig.  And, of course, we really use it when we bring our grandkids.  We built an outside stall made of 1/2-inch PVC pipe and use shower curtains and a 2-foot square redwood floor mat.” – Paul H. Castillo Sr., 2007.5 Chevy 2500HD, 2003 Lance 825

“We are on the road to Alaska for 2 to 3 months as we write this and will use it often.  We carry a privy that folds like a visor sun block, dries real quick, and takes almost no room.” – Tom Elliott, 2007 Ram 2500, 1999 Lance 835 Lite

“Yes.  Mostly at the beach so there is no sand it the camper.” – Philip Kaufman, 1995 Silverado 2500HD, 1996 Lance 990

“We use our outside shower all the time to do our dishes.  We setup a table by the shower with a wash basin.  We don’t use it for showers.” – Keith Martin, 1999 Ford F350, 1999 Coachman Ranger 115

“Yes, we use it.  When camping at a lake, we use it several times a day to wash feet, shoes, swimsuits, wet suits, etc.” – Jim Finck, 2001 Chevrolet 2500HD, 2004 Lance 1010

“We have never used it and would consider not having it.” – Rob Abear, 2015 Ford F350, 2015 Arctic Fox 990

“I’ve never used it in the five years and over 100 overnights I’ve enjoyed with my camper.  I either boondock in parking lots or campgrounds, so I’m not doing outside showering there.  I’m not the beach-going type, and perhaps that’s where the ability to remove sand and mud outside would make sense.

I’ve inserted a valve to cut off water to the external shower, and I have it permanently winterized.  I could always turn the valve on and use it again, but I suspect it’s more likely I’ll die of old age first!” – Reed Prior, 2007 GMC 2500HD, 2000 Travel Lite

“We like the idea of it.  We used it for ourselves once when we were all alone in a campground on a very hot night.  We do love outside showers when we rent a beach cabin.  We have also used it to wash the dog when he got coated with mud.  I have also used it to rinse some mud off the back of the camper (after about 200 miles of muddy highway on a rainy day) and also to rinse off muddy boots and other gear before stowing it.

Even though we haven’t used it a lot, I think that the ability to have an outside water source is more helpful than not, so I will likely get it again with the next camper.” – Steve Merrill, 2009 Chevy Silverado 3500, 2007 Lance 992

“I use it daily when I cook outside.  The hose is long enough to reach my work table under the awning, and it becomes an outdoor kitchen sink.

I also use it for myself.  I put on a pair of swim trunks, take a quick shower, and wash my hair when I’m out in the boonies.” – Dave B., Ram 3500, Adventurer 1160

“We do not use the outside shower and have one because it came that way from the factory.  I would rather have it as an option for those who would use it and save money on the added cost.  It just adds another opening on the outside to keep caulked and protected in cold weather.” – Doug Baker, 2006 Toyota Tundra, 2006 Six-Pac D650

“We use ours all the time.  I am a diver and a nice warm rinse after 55 degree water is great.  It makes clean up of regulators, masks, and gear a snap.  Plus, we have dogs.  Enough said.” – Erik Russell, 2016 Ram 3500, 2001 Lance 1010

“I never use the outside shower.  I could easily skip it.” – Leonard Pennock, 2006 Ram 3500, 2002 Eagle Cap 950

“The only time we have ever used an outside shower from any of our RVs was to wash our dogs after swimming in dirty water.  If we were to order a new unit, I would delete it. It’s just another item to winterize each year.” – Eric Devolin, 2007 GMC 3500, 2006 Adventurer 106 DBS

“In 15 years, we have never used the outside shower.  I did remove and replace it when I needed access to the bathroom faucet to replace one that broke.  Yes, it could be removed provided there was another way to access the bathroom faucet when it needs replacement.” – Ronald Ramos, 2003 Ram 3500, 2001 Adventurer 90RDS

“The only time we would use the outside shower is when we need to use water from our tank, but don’t want that water to go to the gray tank, due to its small size.  And that is not often.  The alternative would be a solar shower bag.  You could get the water from a clear stream, set it in the sun for a few hours, and have a shower powered by gravity. We used a solar shower when we were cruising in the Bahamas all the time.  These can be found at any Marine supply store, or on line at westmarine.com.  So yes, I could live without the outside shower.” – Larry and Norma Wiethop, 2007 Ford F250, 2003 Lance 960

“Having two large dogs that love to roll around in highly odoriferous materials (think dead animals), an outside shower is mandatory.  It definitely comes in handy on these occasions.” – Stuart Klein, 2000 Chevy Silverado 2500, 2001 Hallmark Ute

“I use it a few times every year for cleaning fish and also for cleaning very dirty dishes.  I like the option of having one.” – Jerry Comfort, 2012 Ford F150, 2013 White Water

“I use it quite a bit during my month long Idaho hunting trip.  The dishes are done outside using a table and plastic pans.  I also use it for rinsing off muddy gear.  But, no one in our camper uses it for showers.” – Steve Cilenti, 1999 Ford F350, 2012 Arctic Fox

“I use it all the time, though rarely for an actual shower since I have one inside.  The main use is rinsing off a kayak and gear after seawater voyaging.  I use the spray nozzle attached to an extension hose with a standard male garden hose fitting on one end.  It has also served to rinse off large quantities of mud or dust on my person and I have even washed the rig a couple of times with it.” – Larry Bluhm, 2004 Ram 2500, 2011 Northstar Laredo SC

“We have never used it.  I have considered removing it, but that is when we will need it.” – Matt Wiegand, 2014 Ford F150, 2015 Palomino SS-1251

“I use it a little every year for rinsing off feet, boots, and occasionally for washing hair.  I have not used it for full body showering; only a couple of exceptions.  I like having it, but I don’t winterize, ever.” – Dennis Nord, 2005 Chevy 2500, Northern Lite Northerner

“I really don’t really care for the wimpy shower head in the new Northern Lite.  I really liked the one in the old Arctic Fox.  It was a nice heavy duty coiled hose with a good spray nozzle that was good for washing out fish coolers, cutting boards, washing the bugs off from the front of the camper, and anything else that needed washing.” – John Rand, 1999 Ford F-250, 2016 Northern Lite 9.6 Q SE

“No, I never have.  I would not order one on a new camper.” – John Simon, 1993 Dodge Ram 350, 1993 Alpenlite 12-foot

“I use my shower most every trip in mild-weather.  I have a shower tent and it works great for me!  Of course I don’t have an interior shower.  I camp 95-percent of the time off-grid, so no campgrounds!” – Michael Sasse, 2013 Toyota Tacoma, 2014 Four Wheel Eagle

“I have had four RVs, all with outside showers, and never used one once.  I have winterized all of them for ten years of RVing.  I like the coil hose and nozzle that came with my 2016 Arctic Fox 990.” – George Visconti, 2015 GMC 3500HD, 2016 Arctic Fox 990

“I love the outside shower.  We wouldn’t be without it.  I use it for doing dishes and cleaning fish along with an occasional shower with a swimming suit on, of course.” – Jeff Baker, 2004 Ford F250, 2000 Lance 820

“I ordered the camper with the outside shower as there is no way to avoid some obscure future reason where it might be a lifesaver (mine).  My wife is a neat freak and I can be a klutz.  Fortunately, it has never been used, but it’s only 18 months old.” – Joe Sesto, 2015 Silverado 3500, 2015 Bigfoot 10.6E

“I have never used mine.  I had to replace it because it froze last winter and leaked this spring.  Yep, I could do without it.” – Tom Bryan, 2014 Chevy 2500, 2012 Wolf Creek 850

“Ours never worked right, so I didn’t use it.  I would rather not have it on the camper. Use that space for something else or cut the cost.” – Bruce Hoffman, 2008 Ram 3500, 2000 Arctic Fox

“After four outings, I have yet to use the outside shower on our Lance 981.  But, on our old Lance 1010, we used to set it up as a hand washing station.  It worked quite well and was used often since it was convenient.  We also found it easier to wash dishes in tubs set up on our camp table under the outside shower.

As for the 981, the outside shower is under/inside the wing.  The on/off knobs are inconveniently low.  I do not see us using it in the immediate future, but it will be something to ponder this weekend at the campsite as I would like to set it up as a hand washing station again.” – Ben Hansen, 2002 Ford F250, 2005 Lance 981

“I have used it three times on a four week trip.  Lack of privacy and cold are the reasons for not using it.  If the air temperature was hotter, I probably would use it more.  Some concern about using too much water is also a factor.” – Richard Stover, 2015 Toyota Tacoma, 2015 Four Wheel Camper Fleet

“I use my outdoor shower often even though we have a nice dry bath onboard.  Being a surfer in the Pacific northwest, it is a huge asset being able to return from a surf session and fill my wet suit with warm goodness and rinse off without bringing the mess indoors.

Having two kids and two dogs, it’s also very nice to have them shower for clean up outside of the camper when weather permits.  I still intend to fashion a outdoor surround/curtain, but we mostly just bathe in our swimwear.” – Stewart Simonson, 2004 Dodge 3500, 1997 Bigfoot 2500

“Yes we use it!  We spend a lot of time by our local San Diego beaches and use it to clean off the saltwater and sand after a fun surf, diving, or fishing session.  It’s also great for rinsing the saltwater and sand off the gear and the occasionally dirty dog.” – Chris Andersen, 2006 Dodge 2500, 2015 Arctic Fox 990

“I use my outside shower on most every trip.  Not all campgrounds have showers and I like to at least wash my head in the morning.  If I get another camper it will have an outside shower also.” – John Goins, 2015 Ford F150, 2003 Northstar TC800

“We go to Colorado to work on a house for one and a half to two weeks in July and use the outside shower almost 90-percent of the time (even my wife).  The camper did not come with an outside shower, so we plumbed one in.  We use a two room shower surround that we built out of PVC from our tenting days.  It has a lot more room and has a changing room.

The inside shower pan on the camper was cracked and it could not be used.  Even if it worked, I prefer the outside shower due to the space.” – Alan Mueller, 2006 GMC 2500HD, 2000 Shadow Cruiser

“Oh yeah, we use it!  Living in the desert our outside shower sees use well before we’ll stand inside.  Just enough hot water during a shower inside can cause the entire camper interior to become a sauna.  Even using the ceiling fan there’s no deterring the humidity level.  There’s just something about standing outside and showering.  Granted were usually wearing the minimum.” – Ralph Bosse, 1996 Dodge 2500, 1994 Lance 480

“My Travel Lite does not have a inside shower.  It does have a toilet inside.  That being said, I have used the outside shower several times when I’m boondocking   I either use a bathing suit or a porta privy.  I’ve also set up a portable kitchen and used the water to clean dishes.

Yes, it’s an extra step to winterize, but not a problem.  Even if I buy another camper with a bath inside, I would use the outside water.  Oh, another use is to bathe my two small dogs in the summer time.” – Jeff Hagberg, 2002 Ford F250, 2006 Travel Lite 800 SBX

“Yes, quite a bit.  We use the outside shower to hose off salt water at the beach, have hot dish water when cooking outside, and for washing hands, etc.  We find it quite handy.  About the only thing we have not done with the outside shower is take a shower!  We do that inside.” – Bill Tex, 2006 Chevy, 2013 Eagle Cap 850

“I have had RVs of one kind or another since 1965, and never have I used the outside shower.  On our Arctic Fox, I have removed all the hookups and cut out the inside panel to access the inside.  In hot weather it helps to remove hot air from water heater under that counter.  Not having excess plumbing helps winterizing, and clears up area under the sink that is cluttered up with wiring and piping that runs everywhere.

Maybe for future surveys, you could ask for lists of likes and dislikes for the brand we have, maybe some feedback would get to manufactures from the people that really use their product, and with a few improvements we would be interested in upgrading.

Thanks for your online publication.  I really enjoy reading just about our truck campers.” – Bill Hansen, 2013 Ram 3500, 2007 Arctic Fox 990

“I have not used the outside shower yet.  I would not add it as an option if I was special ordering one.  I believe it serves as a great option if you have small children and need to wash the mud off them.  I would prefer an option for a fish cleaning station.  You could have a single box with a hose bib and a hose with a table that is mounted on the side of the camper.  It could fold up when traveling and be mounted on the side.

Then again, we would be talking about who needs a fish cleaning station.” – Steve Evans, 2104 Ram 3500, 2012 Lance 825

“I have used my outside shower but only about six times.  I would probably use it more if it was in a more user friendly location on my camper, and was of a better quality.” – Scott Bauer, 2002 Ford F-350, 2009 Lance 1181

“Living in Southern California, I mostly camp in the warm local deserts and Baja California.  Having a wet bath and being 6’3″ tall, I use my outside shower all the time for showering, rinsing off after surfing, or cleaning the salt water off fishing gear.  It is much more convenient than having to wipe the bath down.  I usually will put down a couple plastic leveling blocks to stand on while showering so I am not standing in a muddy mess.” – Justin Hinds, 2001 Ford F250, 2007 Lance 861

“Our camper did not come with an outside shower.  I have, however, installed one myself.  How often we use it depends on where we are camped.  If others are around, then not so much.  If few or no others, then quite often.  We have a wet bath which means, after every use, it gets wiped down, which is fine because it stays cleaner that way.  However, with the outside shower we have no problem with elbow room and there’s no clean-up afterwards (and I don’t mind holding the shower head for my wife). We will always have an outside shower.” – David Pracht, 2015 GMC Sierra K3500, 1987 Lance LC900

“We have had two truck campers and, as far as I can recall, we have only used the outside shower once in our first camper.  The shower hose on our Arctic Fox has never been out of its storage area.  I believe that the shower could be useful, but in most camping situations you are likely to make more of a muddy mess using the outside shower than just wiping off and taking a shower inside.  Now that I have said this we’ll probably use the outside shower this weekend!” – John Terescik, 2015 Ram 3500, 2015 Arctic Fox 1140

“Yes, I use the outside shower every day we camp.  We have a small dog and wash off his paws when he is muddy.  And I use it to rinse out the coffee strainer after making perked coffee with no mess inside.” – Michael Walker, 2008 Ford F250, Bigfoot Columbia River

“To be fair, we have mostly used our camper long term in a campsite so we didn’t need it.  Last winter we were two months in one campsite in Florida.  We used the shower a couple of times to wash feet or sandals and hose off a leaky sewer/gray water drain hose.

I just asked my wife and got a definite, “No, we wouldn’t spend the money to have this as an option”.  Even if we were on the road traveling and using remote sites, I can’t see us using it.  It seems like, “Wow, that’s nice” when you get it, but it’s nothing that we need or use.” – Mike Ricci, 2006 Chevy 2500 HD, 2006 Bigfoot 15C9.5 FS

“We do use it some, but not very often.  It would not be a reason not to buy a camper.” – David Jewell, 2008 Dodge 2500, 2005 Alpenlite 800

“We’ve never used the outside shower and can’t think of a time we would.  We live in an area where we don’t have to winterize it, but would forgo an outside shower in the future.” – Tony and Linda Perez, 2014 Chevrolet 2500HD, 2013 Wolf Creek 850

“We use it at least ten times a summer.  We have a shower tent to put out by the camper.  Our last camper, a Bigfoot 9.6, had a small grey water tank so this worked well.  Even with the new camper, with four showers and some dishes, the grey tank is full.” – John Hogan, 2014 Ram 2500 HD, 2016 Westland 9.5 SL

“My wife, Brenda, and I love the outside shower.  We purchased an outside shower pop-up tent and stand it up along side the camper.  The existing hose was bit short for what we needed, so I purchased a longer, 7-foot hose. The factory shower head did not shut off completely and, as you know, the pressure is weak.  So we purchased a better unit.  The shower tent has two rooms and holds our dry towels and clothes in one room, while we shower in the next.  It really gives you the room you need.” – Tom Klinczar, 2012, GMC Sierra 2500, 2012 Palomino 8801

“I don’t have an outside shower, but sure would like to have one.  I have a golden retriever and, at times, it would be nice to wash her down before entering the camper.” – Charlie Young, 2013 Chevy 2500HD, 2012 Riverside 865

“We use our outside shower all the time.  We asked the Ward family at Hallmark to not install the inside shower so we would have more interior space in our Everest model camper.  We bought a pop-up style shower tent that we put up next to our outside shower and we take private showers in that all the time.” – Rick Guffey, 2012 Ram 2500, 2013 Hallmark Everest

“In five seasons with our last camper and into the second season with this camper, we have never used our outside shower.  Apparently I am no longer allowed to get that dirty.  Having said that, I still like having the option.” – Jim Kaley, 2015 GMC Sierra 3500, 2015 Arctic Fox 992

“Yes, I use it almost as much as inside for showers.  I couldn’t imagine not having one.  There is nothing like the great outdoors.” – Ron Perks, 2013 Ford F150, 2015 Palomino SS-1251

“My husband used the outside shower just one time.  I have never used it.  I would certainly prefer some other option.” – Helen Scurzi, 1991 Chevy 3500, 2008 Lance 911

“Yes we use the outside shower, although not for us humans, but our four-legged travel companion.  Depending on where we’ve been camping and how dirty he gets, we wash the dog every few weeks.  The smell of wet dog in the camper is not one we enjoy.

And one time, at a public dump that didn’t have water, we put a back flow preventer connector on to the outside shower and used it to do the black flush – probably not the smartest thing we’ve ever done, but we did use the back flow preventer.” – C&J Ramsey, 2012 Chevy 3500, 2014 Adventurer 116DS

“We use our outside shower a fair bit.  Dirty grandkids and when I clean fish are two prime examples.” – Brian Hawkins, 1999 Ford F250 SD, 1987 Skamper

“We have spent over 425 nights in this camper and have never used campground showers – only our own dry bath.  We too, have only used the outside shower once in a campground in Wyoming where we were all alone and modesty wasn’t needed.  It is a very easy option to forgo in our next truck camper, especially if the space could be used to expand the dry bath or add another storage nook.” – Lou Pomerville, 2008 Silverado K3500HD, 2008 Snowriver 102RK

“I have used it a few times, and would get it again.  When you need it, it’s nice to have, like in your example!” – Ed Osborn, 2007 Chevy Silverado 1500, 2012 Four Wheel Camper Raven

“I like outside showers best.  It lessens the risk of rot and gives yourself more room in the camper.  I used a friends with that set up years ago and loved it.  He had a basic Thetford toilet inside and the outside shower.  If I get a camper for myself, assuming someone actually makes a camper with real world numbers for an older half-ton truck, that is the only set up I would consider.” – Patrick Seals, 2001 Chevy 1500, it was a friend’s, don’t know the brand

“If you travel with a dog, you already know the answer to this question.” – Bob Shaffer, 2016 Ram 3500, 2016 FWC Hawk

“I use my outside shower frequently.  We bought a wood grate and a fold up enclosure for privacy.  Camping with kids means lots of dirt.  It’s amazing how nice it is to shower them at night before going to bed.  We camp mostly away from campgrounds so showering at a facility isn’t usually an option for us.” – Jeremy Haymore, 2015 Silverado 3500, 2015 FWC Grandby

“I almost always remove the truck and I use the overhang area to cook and do dishes using the shower for hot water.  When camping, I live outdoors as much as possible.” – Richard Riebe, 2007 GMC 2500, 2013 Wolf Creek 850

“I have to have one.  I’m a diver.  It’s great to wash the gear and me.” – Dennis D Duncan Jr, 2012 Ford F350, 2005 Arctic Fox

“We never have used our outside shower.  In fact the shower head is one of the kitchen drawers.  We winterize it every year.  Will we ever use it?  Who knows, but we wouldn’t want to do without one because you never know when you may really need it.  Maybe for a skunked dog, oil soaked hands, or just plain old muddy sneakers or grandchildren.” – Jerry Bonneau, 1995 Ford F350SD, 2002 Lance 1061

“I use it some times.  I would order it again.” – Loro Paterson, 2014 Ram 1500, 2014 Four Wheel Camper Hawk

“The outside shower head reduces the need to enter the camper and reduces weight of grey water.  I wash hands, feet, and dogs.  It also fills pans heated on the fire and rinses dishes.  You can also wash away poison oak and cool off the dogs.” – Mike Given, 1999 F250, 1997 Shadow Cruiser

“I never have and probably never will (except to winterize!).  I agree, and probably would forgo it in the future.” – Tom and Karin Slack, 2011 Ford 350, 2008 Okanagan 85SL

“We have never used the outside shower on our campers.  Then last year we had water on the floor by the stove and adjacent heater wall, which is next to the bathroom.  We finally found it was the line in the bathroom that ran to the outside shower.  To stop the leak, the water to the outside shower was turned off and the lines capped.  For us, we don’t need it and will forgo it.  If desperate, a bucket of water will work.” – Don Sutliff, 2004 Ford F250, 2014 Lance 865

“Yes, we use it any chance we get.  There is less clean up inside and it gives you a little more of the outdoorsy camping with a mother nature feel.” – Paul Braun, 2011 Sierra 2500 HD, 2007 Lance 861

“No thank you.  No outside shower ever.” – Manuel Pacheco, 2011 Ford F250, S&S Camper

“We use our outside shower frequently when camping.  We dry camp and use it for washing hair, rinsing off after swimming (us and the dog), or on horseback trips for showers.  We never use the inside shower (wet bath camper) and have considered getting one of those small outhouse tents for the outside shower.  We carry a rubber door mat for standing on.  I would never buy a camper without an outside shower.” – Tricia Mason, 2009 Ford F350, 2008 Montana Ponderosa

“I use the outside shower when I’ve been working outside and need to spray off the dust and dirt before going in.  The truth is that I use it probably five times a year.  I’ve been known to change the head on it and put a hose on it to fill the bucket for washing the rig and car.  If I didn’t have it, I don’t think I’d really miss it.” – Jeff Kligora, 2007 Chevy 3500, 2007 Okanagan 117DBL

“We do use outside shower for mud on shoes and giving our grandchildren a shower outside to save grey water holding tank.  I also have used it to take a shower on private land in warm weather.” – Greg Gaser, 2014 Ford F350, 2017 Lance 1172

“Never.  It’s a waste of space.  It’s good for families with kids, maybe.  But, for me, never.  I could use the space for other things.  Space is a premium.” – Bob Seely, 2001 Dodge Ram 2500, 2000 Lance 10.2

“Yes, but I have limited use due to limited fresh water of 27 gallons.” – Stephen O’Neal, Chevy 3500, Alaskan 11

The post The Naked Truth About Outside RV Showers appeared first on Truck Camper Magazine.

With 51 percent of the reader vote, the Mini Mod winner has been chosen for our May 2016 TCM Mod Contest.  And the winner of this month’s Mod contest is…

Congratulations to Charles Coushaine of Punta Gorda, Florida!

Your water meter mod has won the May 2016 Truck Camper Magazine Mod Contest.  Your “Mod Scientist” T-Shirt prize is being shipped.

You are also now eligible to win the annual Top Modder of the Year grand prize; a $250 gift certificate to Lowes or Home Depot (or a Canadian equivalent).

To see the May 2016 mods, including the winning entry, click here.

Enter Your Mods Now!

If you’d like to enter mods to TCM’s Monthly Mod Contest, click here.  You can enter as many mods as you want, at any time.  Good luck mod makers!

The post May 2016 Monthly Mod Winner appeared first on Truck Camper Magazine.

For 2017, Adventurer Manufacturing teases two new models, reveals all-new interiors, debuts one-piece counter tops, and unveils bolder exterior graphics.

Most manufacturers will debut a new and improved version of a product and discontinue the older product at the same time.  Not Adventurer Manufacturing.

After gathering dealer and customer feedback about how they could improve a specific camper, the Adventurer team does their best to build a new camper to beat the old one.

Once they believe they’ve hit the mark, they step back and let the new camper duke it out in the marketplace with the old camper.  It’s literally Adventurer vs Adventurer, camper vs camper, model vs model.  At the end of the year, the camper that has sold the most wins.

Right under our noses in 2015 and 2016, Adventurer has been monitoring a battle between the Adventurer 910FBS and the 910DB.  For 2017, they are ready to announce a winner, and kick one of these single-slides off Adventurer island.  Bring the truck camper torches.

In addition, Adventurer is set to debut significant changes to their interiors including new cabinetry, molded one-piece countertops, wall boards, and fabrics.  The exterior graphics have also been enhanced while other features and options have been added.  Did we mention they have two new models in the works?

To dig deeper into Adventurer’s 2017 model year updates, needle more information on the new models, and discover which truck camper torch is getting snuffed, we talked to Greg Tucknies, National Sales Manager for Adventurer Manufacturing.

Above: The 2017 Adventurer 86FB on a Ford F350.  All photography provided by Adventurer Manufacturing.

TCM: Are there any Adventurer models being discontinued for 2017?

Greg: Yes, we are discontinuing the Adventurer 910FBS for 2017.

When we debuted the Adventurer 910DB for 2014, we anticipated that some 910FBS sales would become 910DB sales, and that has happened.

A main reason why customers prefer the Adventurer 910DB is the King-size bed.  In fact, we continue to be asked to put a King-size bed in the other Adventurer models.

The only negative of the 910DB is how the size of the Super-U dinette encroached into the main living area of the camper.  For 2017, we have have shortened the dinette.

Above: The Splendid Maple cabinetry, new hardware, and stainless appliances in the Adventurer 86FB

TCM: Tell us about the new 2017 Adventurer interiors.

Greg: For many years, Adventurer had light color interiors.  In 2010, when I started at Adventurer, the cabinetry was blonde in color.  As our dealers and customers asked us for richer interiors, we made the cabinetry progressively darker maple tones.  We have used the most recent maple cabinetry since 2014.

Over the past two years, Adventurer dealers and customers have asked us for dark Cherry cabinetry.  While we appreciated this feedback, we didn’t want the cabinetry in the smaller Adventurer models to be that dark.

Above: The new decor in a 2017 Adventurer 86FB

For ideas and inspiration, we worked with our interior designers and furniture manufacturers.  With an array of choices and samples in hand, we put several packages together and gathered feedback from the Adventurer office and production teams.

Above: The Splendid Maple cabinetry with the new hardware

For 2017, we have selected Splendid Maple cabinetry.  It’s not as dark as the Cherry, and offers a bolder and richer interior aesthetic for the 2017 Adventurer line.  It’s closer to Pecan in color.

Above: The new stainless steel refrigerator in the 86FB

 
Above: The stainless oven and microwave in the 86RB with the new Splendid Maple cabinetry

Above: The new wall board for 2017 Adventurer campers

With the wood tone selected, we chose a new wall board for Adventurer.  We have been using the same wall board for almost eight years.  If we were going to revamp the interiors, why not update and enhance everything?

TCM: For 2017, Adventurer truck campers are getting thermal-formed one-piece MDF countertops.  What are thermal-formed counter tops and why are you making this change?

Greg: The new molded countertops are high-end one-piece medium density fiberboard (MDF).  The MDF countertops can be any shape or design because they’re formed, vacuum sealed, and laminate foil finished.

Above: The new molded countertops in the kitchen of the 80GS

This process gives the new one-piece countertops a clean finished edge.  There’s no edge banding or separation like you see with traditional formica.  The first 80GS models with the new one-piece counters are coming off the line now and they look fantastic.

TCM: Did you test the new counters for scratch resistance and durability?

Greg: We went through a lot of testing when the first sample came through.  We hit it with hammers and dropped tools, pots, pans, and plates on it.  The hammers and heavier dropped tools sometimes left small indentations, but the pots, pans, plates and other normal truck camping items did nothing.

Above: The 80GS dinette with the molded table and Pewter decor

Just like any other countertop material, it can be damaged, but you really have to work at it.  Nothing broke the foil seal.  It’s tough.

Above: The new molded countertops in the 86FB add about 3.25 pounds

TCM: Is there a weight difference between the outgoing formica counter tops and the new one-piece MDF counter tops?

Greg: The new one-piece countertops add a little weight.  In the 86FB, which is a mid-sized unit, the new counter is about 3.25 pounds heavier than the old one.  But, the new one-piece counter is a lot more solid than the formica.

Above: New Decor for 2017 – Pistachio

Above: New Decor for 2017 – Pewter

Above: New Decor for 2017 – Dawn

TCM: The Adventurer exterior graphics are receiving an overhaul for 2017.  Tell us about this new look.

Greg: For the 2017 Adventurer exterior graphics, we talked to our graphics company and gave them an idea of what we wanted.  They came back with about a dozen choices from which, after an office vote, we selected two.  To make the final selection, we asked James Epp, President of Adventurer Manufacturing, for input.

Over the past few years, we have received a number of requests from younger dealers and buyers for a bolder exterior look.  We didn’t want to go too bold and lose our more traditional buyers.  With James’ final selection, we have a new exterior graphics package that gives the 2017 Adventurer units more pop, but is more subtle in color.

TCM: The solar panel option now includes the ability to add a second or even a third panel.  Did you change the make and model of solar controller and panel for 2017?

Greg: For 2016, we upgraded to GoPower for solar controllers and panels and we are continuing with GoPower for 2017.  For the 2017 model year we are debuting a new option titled, “Solar Panel – 2nd Additional” at a significantly lower cost than our previous second solar panel option.

The lower price comes from the use of a single 300-watt GoPower solar controller rather than the two solar controllers that were previously required.  That savings is passed directly to the customers for 2017.  Now customers can order one, two, or even three 100-watt GoPower panels with their 2017 Adventurer, and take advantage of the savings.

TCM: For 2017, Adventurer truck campers will have a standard 12-volt power point in the cabover bedrooms.  Why did you make a 12-volt power point in the cabover standard?

Greg: Until now, we have only had 110-volt outlets in the cabover, plus the 12-volt outlet for the television.  More and more we are seeing customers who need to power a 12-volt CPAP machine overnight.  To meet this need, we are adding 12-volt power points in the cabovers.  Of course these can also be used to charge cell phones and tablets.

TCM: Are there any model specific changes for 2017?

Greg: As I already stated, the 910DB is getting a shorter U-shape dinette.  We also added the King bed with under-bed storage in the 910DB.  We debuted this feature in the Eagle Cap 1200 and it’s been very well received.  It should also bring the center of gravity in the 910DB forward.

Although not update related, we are seeing a significant increase in the number of 910DB units being ordered with the Power Bunk option.  As of now, about fifty percent of the 910DB models are being ordered with the Power Bunk.

The Adventurer 116DS is getting a larger 28-inch 12-volt HDTV.  The 24-inch television was discontinued.  The larger HDTV required adjusting the wall blocking to support the larger swivel arm.  The television is now moved in a little more, and the larger screen looks great in the camper.

TCM: Will we see any new Adventurer models in 2017?

Greg: Yes, we will be announcing two new models this year.  They will both be released in the late summer or early fall.

Our wish list and our goals for the new models are quite ambitious.  If we pull off what we’re hoping to do, one model will be for a half-ton and an industry first.  We’re also working on a single-slide model.

We’ll let you know when it’s ready to go and make its debut in Truck Camper Magazine.

TCM: What a tease!  Is there anything else you want to share about the 2017 Adventurer updates?

Greg: Check out our walk through video of the Adventurer 86FB.  During the walk through I highlight the 2017 changes.

I think 2016 will be Adventurer’s best year ever with our new exterior colors and new interiors on our 2017 models.  Everything is richer and bolder.  We keep moving forward.  We get a lot of comments from customers and dealers that we get better and better every year.  We are very excited about our 2017 Adventurer camper line and updates.

For more about the Adventurer updates, check out the 2017 updates on their website.  Click here to request an Adventurer brochure.

The post 2017 Adventurer Announcements appeared first on Truck Camper Magazine.

Most RV owners are familiar with the potential problems of water intrusion.  While the proliferation of aluminum framing and impervious composite materials has come a long way, water is still a long term threat via mold, cabinetry rot, and sidewall de-lamiation.

To combat the water assault, we recommend routinely checking and maintaining your camper seals.  Always be on the look out for the sights and smells (on the smell out?) for internal leaks.  For example, if it’s raining buckets, vigorously inspect the interior of your camper to see if any water is coming in.

Angela: Water you doing?

Gordon: Leaping around looking for leaks!

Harley: Oh brother.

Let’s say you’ve been vigilant about maintaining your seals and routinely inspecting the inside for signs of trouble and everything is high and dry.  That’s it, right?  Well, no.  Condensation from breathing and burning propane can bring a considerable amount of moisture into your campers.  All that caulking and gawking and you still have water problems?  Yup.

If it’s particularly cold outside, we will need to wipe the metal frame of our cabover escape hatch in the mornings.  It will be literally dripping with condensation.  This can be mitigated by cracking open the escape hatch and another window inside the camper, but a considerable amount of condensation still occurs.  It’s always advisable to have a little cross-ventilation when sleeping in a camper.

Under the same weather conditions, we have also experienced interior condensation around the metal framed windows.  On rare occasion, this too needs to be wiped to prevent the moisture from dripping.

Having talked to numerous industry leaders and experienced truck camper owners about this topic, the common wisdom is that condensation is just part of truck camping, and not a big deal.  Find it, wipe it, and forget it.  I agree, but any time there’s potential for moisture in a truck camper we should remain focused on preventative measures.

TCM reader, Donald Pryor, has a slightly different take on why we should avoid condensation in our truck campers.

“Camping in cooler climates can cause condensation on the inside of windows and walls.  Unlike larger RVs that have much larger interior volume, truck campers seem to suffer from from internal dampness magnified by high humid areas.  People can sweat out as much as a quart of moisture in as little as eight hours while watching TV.  This can lead to mold and possible sickness.  How do your readers deal with the air quality and condensation issues?”

As someone who is allergic to mold, I see Don’s point.  We may be chasing our tails on this topic, but let’s give it a shot.  This week’s Question of the Week is, “How do you prevent condensation in your truck camper?”

Fill out the form below to share how you cut down and/or prevent condensation in your camper.

The post The Camper Condensation Conundrum appeared first on Truck Camper Magazine.

WHEAT RIDGE, CO | 303-431-2211 |  DIRECTIONS | CONTACT | WEBSITE

Last Inventory Update: June 2, 2016

Always call ahead before visiting a dealership to confirm that posted truck camper inventory is in stock and on the lot.  Dealer inventory can change everyday as truck campers are delivered from the manufacturers and sold to customers.

NEW CAMPERS

2017 LANCE 1062 [STOCK#18131]  NEW LISTING
The Lance 1062 is a hard side, double-slide, dry bath truck camper.

2016 LANCE 850 [STOCK#18035]  NEW LISTING
The Lance 850 is a hard side, non-slide, wet bath truck camper.

2016 LANCE 825 [STOCK#17784]  SOLD
The Lance 825 is a hard side, non-slide, wet bath truck camper.

2016 LANCE 650 [STOCK#17618]
The Lance 650 is a hard side, non-slide, wet bath truck camper.

2016 LANCE 855S [STOCK#17617]
The Lance 855S is a hard side, single-slide, wet bath truck camper.

2016 LANCE 855S [STOCK#17620]
The Lance 855S is a hard side, single-slide, wet bath truck camper.

2016 LANCE 995 [STOCK#17169] 
The Lance 995 is a hard side, single-slide, wet bath truck camper.

2016 LANCE 975 [STOCK#17621] 
The Lance 975 is a hard side, single-slide, dry bath truck camper.

2016 LANCE 1172 [STOCK#17166] 
The Lance 1172 is a hard side, double-slide, dry bath truck camper.

2016 LANCE 855S [STOCK#17364]
The Lance 855S is a hard side, single-slide, wet bath truck camper.

2016 LANCE 995 [STOCK#17365]
The Lance 995 is a hard side, single-slide, wet bath truck camper.

2016 LANCE 855S [STOCK#17376]
The Lance 855S is a hard side, single-slide, wet bath truck camper.

2016 LANCE 650 [STOCK#17616]
The Lance 650 is a hard side, non-slide, wet bath truck camper.

2016 LANCE 1172 [STOCK#17164]  SOLD
The Lance 1172 is a hard side, double-slide, dry bath truck camper.

2016 LANCE 1052 [STOCK#17075]
The Lance 1052 is a hard side, double-slide, dry bath truck camper.

2016 LANCE 975 [STOCK#16903]
The Lance 975 is a hard side, single-slide, dry bath truck camper.

USED CAMPERS

2013 LANCE 1172 [STOCK#16783]  SOLD
2008 EAGLE CAP 850 [STOCK#18102]  NEW LISTING

The post Dealer Inventory for Ketelsen Campers of Colorado appeared first on Truck Camper Magazine.

Last Inventory Update: June 2, 2016

Always call ahead before visiting a dealership to confirm that posted truck camper inventory is in stock and on the lot.  Dealer inventory can change everyday as truck campers are delivered from the manufacturers and sold to customers.

NEW CAMPERS

Huntsville, Alabama

2017 LANCE 1172 [STOCK#106940]  NEW LISTING
The Lance 1172 is a hard side, double-slide, dry bath truck camper.

2017 LANCE 1062 [STOCK#106808]  NEW LISTING
The Lance 1062 is a hard side, double-slide, dry bath truck camper.

2016 LANCE 650 [STOCK#106845]  
The Lance 650 is a hard side, non-slide, wet bath truck camper.

2016 LANCE 650 [STOCK#106846]  
The Lance 650 is a hard side, non-slide, wet bath truck camper.

2016 LANCE 1172 [STOCK#106747]  SOLD
The Lance 1172 is a hard side, double-slide, dry bath truck camper.

2016 LANCE 650 [STOCK#106748]
The Lance 650 is a hard side, non-slide, wet bath truck camper.

2016 LANCE 855S [STOCK#106633]
The Lance 855S is a hard side, single-slide, wet bath truck camper.

2016 PALOMINO HS-2902 [STOCK#106834]  NEW LISTING
The Palomino HS-2902 is a hard side, single-slide, wet bath truck camper.

2016 PALOMINO SS-1240 [STOCK#106833] 
The Palomino SS-1240 is a pop-up truck camper with a toilet.

2016 PALOMINO SS-1251 [STOCK#106835] 
The Palomino SS-1251 is a wet bath, pop-up truck camper.

2016 PALOMINO SS-550 [STOCK#106836] 
The Palomino SS-550 is a pop-up truck camper.

2015 PALOMINO HS-2911 [STOCK#106360] 
The Palomino HS-2911 is a hard side, double-slide, wet bath truck camper.

2016 CIRRUS 800 [STOCK#106697]
The Cirrus 800 is a hard side, non-slide, wet bath truck camper.

Nashville, Tennessee

The Nashville location does not have any truck campers at this time.

Ardmore, Alabama

2016 CIRRUS 800 [STOCK#106698]
The Cirrus 800 is a hard side, non-slide, wet bath truck camper.

Albertville, Alabama

2017 PALOMINO HS-8801 [STOCK#106889]  NEW LISTING
The Palomino HS-8801 is a hard side, non-slide, wet bath truck camper.

USED TRUCK CAMPERS

Huntsville, Alabama
2013 CAMPLITE TC8.6 [STOCK#300586]
2006 LANCE 1181 [STOCK#205467]  NEW LISTING

Florence, Alabama
The Florence location does not have any truck campers at this time.

Ardmore, Alabama
2001 S&S PONDEROSA [STOCK#205056]   SOLD

The post Dealer Inventory for Bankston RV appeared first on Truck Camper Magazine.

Dann and Helen O’Kane share their circle tour of Canada’s Atlantic Provinces via the Trans-Labrador Highway including packing and planning tips, boondocking recommendations, and must-see points of interest.

Our final route selection for this summer enabled us to re-discover Canada’s east coast. It had been nineteen years since we drove through the Atlantic provinces.  At that time it was only possible to explore a very small portion of the Labrador region in the provinces of Newfoundland and Labrador.  There just weren’t many roads.

In 1996, we drove the traditional counter-clockwise route from southern Ontario, east through Quebec, New Brunswick, and Nova Scotia, and then ferried across to the Island of Newfoundland.  From Newfoundland’s Northern Peninsula, we boarded a second ferry to Labrador and drove the short road between Red Bay, Labrador, and Blanc-Sablon in Quebec.

This time our route took us clockwise, from Ontario.  The plan was to spend a little time in Quebec, but to head north as soon as possible since it was getting late in the season and the weather would soon be changing.  Colder temperatures could be arriving soon and even snow was a possibility.

We chose to go straight to Labrador partly because of it being mid-August and because we didn’t know how much time we would spend in Labrador.  Since we have been to the other provinces, it made sense to shorten the time spent in those provinces.  We wanted to leave ourselves open to the possibility of spending more time in Labrador and not be forced to move on.

We had no schedule and no reservations.  Our goal was to drive the Trans-Labrador Highway and allow an itinerary to just unfold after that.

Planning and Packing

By mid-August, we were packed and ready with spare fuel and a stocked emergency kit.  Our GPS maps were updated, the backroad map books were marked, the Delorme inReach for emergency communications was on-board, and we had the Rogers hub for Internet communication.  We had food, water, warm and cold weather clothing, bullet proof rain gear, and new mesh bug suits.

We didn’t find we were lacking anything.  In fact we probably didn’t even need the Delorme inReach since there was lots of traffic on the road and we wouldn’t be stranded for too long.

We brought along a bug tent that we didn’t use, but that was only because we didn’t find any place to boondock for several days.  We were hoping to find a nice spot along a river or stream to fish but, because of the construction, those spots were no longer accessible.  Black flies can be a problem at certain times of the year in Labrador, but we only wore our bug gear once.

Quebec

A few hours after leaving home in Ontario, we were in the Province of Quebec.  We by-passed the busy city of Montreal and crossed over to the north shore of the St. Lawrence River.

We had decided to travel the historic Chemin du Roy, which is the King’s Highway, Highway 138.  The road was completed in 1737.  At the time it was the longest road north of Mexico, and Canada’s oldest.  It is a beautiful drive through historic villages and farms with lots of roadside fruit and vegetable stands.  The area is also renowned for their fromagerie, or cheese makers.

We spent a day exploring Vieux-Quebec (old Quebec City), a UNESCO World Heritage site and a National Historic Site of Canada.  The Ramparts of Quebec City are the only remaining fortified city walls in Canada or the United States.  Well preserved stone buildings with a French European architectural influence, a 400 year history, several beautiful churches, cobblestone streets, buskers, artists’ rows, musicians, and a great selection of cafes and restaurants.

Decisive military engagements here were primarily responsible for the split of British North America into the two nations of Canada and the United States.

The drive from Quebec City to Tadoussac is through the Charlevoix Region of Quebec.  This is a fairly mountainous and windy highway at times with lots of grade changes and views of the St. Lawrence River shoreline.

We stopped at the sacred shrine of Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupre, a major Roman Catholic pilgrimage site that is credited with performing many miracles of curing the sick and disabled.  Visitors leave behind crutches and canes as a testament to the miracles.

As we continued east on the Chemin du Roy, the dramatic landscape of the Charlevoix area continues with rolling terrain, fjords, headlands, and bays, and was designated a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve in 1989.  Bus loads of tourists flock to the area to camp, hike, boat and whale watch.  Exploring the region will have to wait for another trip.

After a resupply in Baie Comeau, we left the King’s Highway and headed north.  We traveled Highway 389 in Quebec to its northern terminus near Fermont, which is just a few kilometers south of the official start of the Trans-Labrador Highway.  A number of once isolated communities are now accessible by the new road.

Our research revealed that over half the Trans-Labrador Highway was still under construction and that we could expect more than 500 kilometers of dirt and/or gravel.  Conditions varied from new pavement to frost heaves, to gravel washboard, to an absolutely horrible stretch of pot-holed dirt with no shoulders.  In addition, we were anticipating similar rough road conditions along Route 389 through Northern Quebec.

You have to steer clear of the extremely soft shoulders.  Even professional drivers can get caught unaware.

Above: The Manic-2 Dam

There are five hydroelectric dams in the area (Manic-1 to Manic-5) in addition to numerous mining and forestry projects.

On the Trans-Labrador Highway there are few fuel stops and 420 kilometers (260.9 miles) is the longest stretch between possible fill-ups.  Gas and diesel were readily available in the remote areas.  There are lots of tractor trailers and mining vehicles, so I wouldn’t anticipate any diesel problems.

As a precaution, we stopped and topped up our fuel tank whenever possible.  Road conditions required we drive slow, but not slow enough to take a picture of a beautiful gray wolf that crossed the road in front of us.

Labrador

Finally, after five days on the road, we are at the start of the Trans-Labrador Highway and, believe it or not, pavement!

We stopped in Labrador City and enjoyed a pizza lunch.  Then we restocked food, wine, and fuel.  The Visitor Center informed us that the Churchill Falls Generating Station had lost their tour guide and weren’t currently offering tours.  What a disappointment.  One of the reasons we wanted to drive the highway was to tour one of the world’s largest generating stations.

There is no cell coverage and no emergency services available on the Trans-Labrador Highway.  The Newfoundland and Labrador provincial government will loan travelers a satellite phone.  There are several pick up and drop off points along the route and they are outlined in the guide.  There is no charge to borrow the phones, but you must leave a credit card number in case the phones are not returned.

We chose to just rely on our Delorme InReach in case of an emergency and to update family and friends back home on our progress.  We bought the inReach two-way satellite communicator without the GPS since we already have an RV GPS and a back country GPS that we use on remote wilderness canoe trips.  We paid around $350 Canadian for the inReach.  Unlike a satellite phone, you can use these anywhere in the world, and they actually work.

There is no more climbing to a high point in order to obtain a clear signal.  In addition, there are two way communications, so we could send short email messages and receive answers.  We could post to Facebook and include an exact location of where we were located.  Since we had virtually no Internet access in Labrador, the Delorme InReach worked really well to let people know where we were and that we were safe.

Traffic dropped off considerably in the last few hundred kilometers of the Trans-Labrador Highway, but someone would eventually come along if you needed assistance.  The highway is paved between Labrador City and Happy Valley/Goose Bay.  The road is in great shape.  One of the unfortunate consequences of this upgraded road is that the new road bed has been raised several feet above the old road and access to those older pull-outs has been temporarily eliminated.

In the construction areas the shoulders were very soft so you couldn’t even pull over on the shoulder.  We managed to find a place to boondock not far from Churchill Falls, so we took advantage of those pull-offs when we could.

In this region of Labrador there are no campground or RV Parks, so people are forced to boondock.  It is expected that you camp wherever you can find a spot.  In Labrador City the visitor center will allow you to camp behind their building, plug into their power, and use their WIFI.  The visitor center in Happy Valley/Goose Bay actually told us places where we could boondock.  We paid nothing for camping the whole time we were in Labrador.

The major resource development in this area is the widening of the Churchill Falls Power Line Corridor.  After Churchill Falls, the terrain becomes increasingly mountainous.  We entered mixed forest that started about 70 kilometers south of Happy Valley/Goose Bay.

Happy Valley/Goose Bay is the next resupply stop, so we spent a couple of days exploring the area.  There are no campgrounds, but they do have a public dump station.  We spent one night boondocking at the local ski hill where a three-legged black bear and her cubs visited in the middle of the night.  We spent another night at the town’s swimming pool where a very friendly local permitted us to use the shower facilities and their WIFI.

There is no app like All Stays for camping in Labrador.  There is an older guide from 2012 (see above), but it is outdated.  I did some research ahead of time reading other people’s blogs, but even those were out of date.  There are visitor centers in Labrador City, Happy Valley/Goose Bay, and in Red Bay.  Fortunately, they were very helpful at providing information.

When we boondocked at Mary’s Harbour, we asked at a store and they told us to park on the water at the new wharf in town.  We just got set up and a truck and tractor pulled in and started off loading building materials for the wharf.  Dann asked the man if we were in his way and, in typical Newfoundland and Labrador fashion, he replied, “Oh no, me boyyo.  If ye are, I’ll just move ye out of me way”.  They are the friendliest people in the world.  They will go out of their way to help you.

A side trip from Happy Valley/Goose Bay will take you to North West River.  This community is the most north-easterly point that you can drive to in North America.  From the beginning, Northwest River has been the meeting place for all the cultures of Labrador; the Innu, Inuit, Metis, and settlers.  It was established as a Hudson’s Bay Trading Post in 1743 and is the oldest community in central Labrador.  It is also home to the Labrador Cultural Center.

The highway from here to Red Bay, Labrador is under construction, so leave lots of time.

Again, because of the highway construction, pull offs and boondocking sites are few and far between.

We managed a couple of days layover in Mary’s Harbour and took a boat trip to the National Historic District of Battle Harbour, once the salt fish capital of Labrador.  At one time the island was home to 300 year-round residents and 1,000 seasonal workers.

Above: Our campsite in Mary’s Harbour

Battle Harbour holds the dual distinction of National Historic Site and Historic District of Canada.  The place commemorates the 19th and 20th century fishing out ports of Newfoundland and Labrador.  Descendants from the original families now act as tour guides on the island.  A small crew of restoration carpenters, with monies from the Canadian federal government and private donations, are doing a wonderful job restoring some of the aging buildings and structures on the island.

Above: The local RCMP officer obliged us with a photo

Almost at the end of the Trans-Labrador Highway you will arrive at the village of Red Bay, a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Red Bay tells the intriguing story of 16th century Spanish Basque whalers who built the first major industrial complex in the New World.  They hunted Right Whales for rendering oil that lit the lamps of Europe in the Middle Ages.  The Basques left in the early 1600s, but not before they had harvested approximately 25,000 Right Whales.

Across from Red Bay is Saddle Island, where the earliest and the best preserved Basque whaling site is found.

Above is a picture of the remains of a shipwreck, The Bernier.  It broke its moorings during a gale in 1965.  It is only a few hundred feet from Saddle Island.  You could get to it by the water, but it’s easily seen from shore.

Newfoundland

After taking the ferry from Labrador to St. Barbe, Newfoundland, we headed north to explore the area around St. Anthony and L’Anse Aux Meadows, an archaeological site of a Viking settlement showing evidence of the first European settlers in North America.  There are Viking interpreters that will explain the archaeological digs and what life was like in the recreated Viking settlement.

Local residents take advantage of the ditches along the roadways to plant their gardens.

Everywhere we went along the West Coast we were reminded of Newfoundland’s unique culture and proof of why they are known for their friendliness.  From the little villages, to the fishing boats, or doing a hike in Gros Morne, people will go out of their way to welcome you.

Above: Caribou at Port Aux Choix

We went on a boat trip into Westernbrook Pond, a landlocked fjord, in Gros Morne National Park.

It is another world heritage site and the northern most terminus of the Appalachian Mountains.

Above: Woody Point, Newfoundland

Above: Port Aux Basques, Newfoundland

Above: Friends we met on the MV Highlander ferry

We met friends that we hadn’t seen in a couple of years in the parking lot waiting for the ferry.   What are the chances of that?  They actually parked next to us in the loading zone.  Catching up sure made the 6.5 hour ferry ride go quickly.

Nova Scotia

The ferry from Blanc Sablon, Quebec to St. Barbe, Newfoundland was around $40 Canadian and was under an hour.  The 6.5 hour ride from Port Aux Basques Newfoundland, to North Sydney, Nova Scotia was around $250 Canadian.  It depends on the passengers’ ages and length of the vehicle.  You can book a room if you want.

There is a longer, overnight ferry that runs from Argentia, near St. John’s, Newfoundland to North Sydney.  Of course this costs more.  The ferry has restaurants, bar, and a gift shop.  They take tractor trailers, so there was no issue with the truck camper.  You must turn off all propane, so we made sure our refrigerator was empty.

After a 6.5 hour ferry ride from Port Aux Basques, Newfoundland, we headed to the backroads of Nova Scotia and followed the coastline from Sydney (Cape Breton Island) until the Bay of Fundy.  What a pleasant surprise!  There were beautiful picturesque villages, historic sites, lighthouses, fishing boats and amazing fresh seafood.

We absolutely loved everything about Nova Scotia, except for the condition of their secondary roads.  While these roads were paved, the harsh winter of the previous year had obviously taken a toll of them.  There were huge potholes, broken-up asphalt, and frost heaves.

We spent a day at the Fortress of Louisbourg, which was founded by the French in 1713.  One quarter of the town and fort has been reconstructed.  It is now the largest historical reconstruction in North America and a National Historic Site of Canada.

Above: Peggy’s Cove Lighthouse

We spent a day in Lunenburg and sailed on The Bluenose II, which is an exact replica of The Bluenose that was built in 1921 as a racing schooner and fishing vessel.  It was undefeated in over seven years of racing.  The Bluenose is depicted on the Canadian dime.

The Bluenose II was built in 1963 by the same company using the original blueprints.  A brewing company actually paid roughly $300,000 to build it.  It was used to market their Schooner Lager.  They sold it to the Nova Scotia government in 1971 for $1.

From 2009 to 2015 a major restoration was done on the vessel and it was only open for sailings in 2015.  It was an amazing experience to watch the crew hoist the sails and stand on deck with the wind in your face.

The crew all live aboard the ship for the sailing season.  We spoke with one crew member, a young girl who had never sailed before.  She decided to apply for a crew position and got the job and was thoroughly enjoying herself.  Some of the crew returns every summer, and one member fishes lobster during the winter.

Above: Cape Forchu Lighthouse

We witnessed the tide change on The Bay Of Fundy, which is home of the highest tides in the world.  The Bay of Fundy is a 270 kilometer long ocean bay that stretches between Nova Scotia and New Brunswick.

Every day the bay fills and empties over a billion tons of seawater during each tide cycle.  That is more than the combined flow of the world’s freshwater rivers.  The height of tide difference ranges from 3.5 meters (11 feet) along the southwest shore in Nova Scotia to over 16 meters (53 feet) in the Minas Basin in New Brunswick.

Above: On the Bear River most of the homes are built on stilts.

We visited Five Islands Provincial Park.  When the tide is out it allows for a lovely shoreline hike on The Bay Of Fundy.  We did not camp there, but they had beautiful sites.  We wanted to go a little further that day, so we set up in an area that had more hiking to offer.

After a day of hiking we enjoyed a dinner out in Advocate Harbour, which is one of the best restaurants we have ever eaten in.  It was voted the best restaurant in Nova Scotia for 2015.  You never know what you may find.

New Brunswick

We left Nova Scotia and continued following the coastline of The Bay Of Fundy into New Brunswick.  Since we were running out of time, we decided to spend a few days hiking in Fundy National Park before heading home.

You can really see the impact of the tides on the Bay shoreline during a quick tour of Hopewell Rocks.

There are three front country campgrounds in the park.  We camped for several days in Chignecto North.  We chose this campground since it had large sites that permitted campfires.

We had water and electric.  It has beautiful sites, and is private and large.  There are 29 different hiking trails in the park, ranging from easy to difficult covering distances from .5 kilometer to 18 kilometers (.3 mile to 11.3 miles).  There is a visitor center and a golf course within the park.

We saw a fishing fleet at low tide in Alma, New Brunswick.  The boats in the pictures are actually in the water when the tide is in.  It’s hard to believe, isn’t it?  If you look close in the pictures they are at dock height when they bring them in and then they wait until the tide is back in before heading back out.

How often do you have to worry about flood conditions while driving to a hiking trail?

We saw the world’s longest covered bridge in Hartland, New Brunswick.  We couldn’t find anywhere where the bridge gave a height, so we didn’t go through with our truck camper.

We got out and checked it out.  The center height was fine, but they had corner bracing on the entrance sides that would have been too low.

Conclusion

This was a good trip.  We traveled through a variety of landscapes.  We were exposed to intriguing, early North American history.  We enjoyed wonderful local cuisine throughout and met many interesting people.  Even though we drove a little over 8,300 kilometers (5,157 miles) and were gone seven weeks, there still wasn’t enough time to experience everything that Canada’s Atlantic Provinces had to offer.

Remote roadways like the Trans-Labrador Highway are a privilege to drive.  They provide access to regions that were once only reachable by air or water.  Driving the route from Northern Quebec, across Labrador to the ferry port at Blanc Sablon, Quebec is not for the unprepared.   Highway conditions at the time of our trip ranged from excellent to very poor.  Drive slowly, give truckers the right-of-way, and stay off the soft shoulders.

This is an area with very few amenities, so be prepared to boondock.  In Labrador you have to boondock, but in the other provinces there are RV parks, Provincial Parks, and National Parks where you can camp.  Some of the remote areas in Newfoundland offered little camping, so don’t assume you’ll find some place to camp in every village.

In another few years the Trans-Labrador Highway will be completely paved and driving it will certainly be easier, but not nearly as challenging or interesting.

Your vehicle’s tires, suspension, undercarriage and body should be heavy duty and well-built for rough road travel.  Carry a spare tire, vehicle recovery and medical kits, and an emergency communication device like a DeLorme inReach, or borrow a satellite phone.

We use Rogers WIFI in Canada, which is Verizon in the USA.  Availability was pretty much restricted to Labrador City and Happy Valley/Goose Bay in Labrador.  Our mobile hotspot never worked in Labrador.  In Newfoundland, the RV parks all had WIFI.  Nova Scotia and New Brunswick had WIFI in all RV parks, but not in Provincial or National Parks.  Our mobile hotspot worked in these parks and in the more urban areas.

There is very little information on the Trans-Labrador Highway, so do your research well ahead of time.  Most of the information I obtained I got from other bloggers.  There is so much to see in a large area that you should really take lots of time.  Get online and contact the provincial tourism sites.  They will send you all kinds of maps and information.

For additional detail on road conditions, camping, attractions and activities, contact us via our website or read our blog posts about the trip dated August and September 2015.  There is also information on our vehicle modifications and upgrades.

On To Our Next Adventure!

Truck Camper Rig
Truck: 2011 Ford F350 Super Duty, 6.2l Gas, Crew Cab, 4×4, Single Rear Wheel, Short Bed
Camper: 2013 Lance 855S
Tie-Downs and Turnbuckles: Happijac and Qwik Loads
Suspension Upgrades: Supersprings SS13 (rear), Bilstein Series 5100 shock absorbers, Hellwig Bigwig Anti-sway Bar (rear), Bridgestone A/T 275/70R18 – 10+2 ply
Gear: Ranch Hand full-front grill bar, lower body panels stone guarded, crew seat removed for gear storage, Lance cabover struts, 95 Watts of Solar, Four Season Package, Rooftop boat racks, Curt cargo carrier (rear receiver), foldable Montague bikes

The post Overland to The Rock appeared first on Truck Camper Magazine.

Dealing with condensation in a truck camper is a tricky business.  The common advice most truck camper owners get is, “Cross ventilation”.  Cross ventilation is tried-and-true, and a critical component to avoiding condensation, but what else can be done?

This week’s Question of the Week was, “How do you prevent condensation in your truck camper?”  Beyond cross ventilation, we were a bit concerned that there might not be much more to say on this topic.  Boy were we wrong!

Here’s how 36 Truck Camper Magazine readers sweat out the condensation in their rigs.  As you’re about to read, there are many effective ways to both avoid and attack condensation.  Thanks again to TCM reader, Donald Pryor, for his question suggestion.

“I have used Air-Dryr 1000 and cross ventilation for many years with some success.” – Carrol Picard, 1999 Dodge Ram 1500, Shadow Cruiser

“I just crack open a couple windows to keep the condensation at bay.  I’ve never had a huge problem with it any way.” – Pam Conner, 2015 Ford F350, 2015 Arctic Fox 1150

“With only one year experience, I have paid attention to other RVers input on many issues including condensation.

1. Temperature – Installed a 30 Amp RV plug to the side of my garage.  We plug into it when at home.

This helps us to maintain a consistent temperature inside the camper (50 degrees in winter and 80 degrees in summer).

We use a small ceramic electric heater for winter to avoid using LP gas.

In the summer we use the air conditioner unit.  We also make certain the fan for the air conditioner is always clean.

2. Remove Condensation – Use the DampRid chemical to suck up any moisture in the air when the camper is not being occupied.  This bowl of chemical is placed in the kitchen sink.  It is removed when we prepare to use the camper.  These chemicals are not appropriate to inhale all the time.

3. Remove Condensation – Use three EvaDry units all the time.  They are like the DampRid, but do not have harmful chemicals.  These units are reusable and do not produce any chemicals in the air, so they are safe for humans/pets.  Two are in the bedroom and one is under the bathroom sink.  When they accumulate enough moisture they are taken into the house and plugged into electricity for twenty-four hours to dry out and then put back into the camper.

4. Air Purifier – Turn on a small space plug-in GT50 air purifier when the RV is in use.  It does not remove condensation but it does clean the air so you have better quality air to breathe and no mold.  It is made specifically for RVs.

5. Rain – If we are closing up our RV and it has rained or is raining, we will first squeegee the slide-outs prior to bringing them in to get as much moisture off of them as possible.  We try not to bring in anything wet into the camper.

6. Bathroom – We use backpack towels made of 85% polyester and 15% nylon.  They are full size towels but 80% of the moisture that is in the towel can be squeezed out after being used.  We do not use regular towels.  The towels dry in a few hours.

After the last person has taken a shower we use a car shammie and wipe down the shower to remove all water.  The shammie can be squeezed and again 80% of the moisture goes down the drain.  We still enjoy our RV and will use a beach towel if we can leave it outside to dry.

7. Kitchen – We use the stove vent when cooking and leave it open while the RV is occupied.  The refrigerator is blocked slightly open when not used to keep moisture/mold from forming.

8. Dinette – There are two outside storage compartments under the dinette and what goes into this storage area needs to be as dry as possible.  Any moisture there can seep into the RV from under the dinette seating.

9. Vents – When occupied, we always have a ceiling vent or window partially open to provide circulation.

10. Winter – We take out anything that can absorb moisture if the RV is not going to be used for long periods; blankets, towels, sheets, pillows, clothing, etc.  We don’t remove the mattress.” – Donald Fox, 2015 Ford F-450, 2016 Lance 1172

“When camping we use a dehumidifier and a 110 heater.  We only cook with propane.  When the camper is in storage we do the same thing with the dehumidifier and heater.  It works.” – Bruce Erickson, Dodge 2500, 2016 Adventurer 8.6 FB

“With the current construction techniques there is no way around the cold weather condensation problems.  The all-aluminum welded frame is stronger, but it is also a direct heat transfer through the camper walls.  The older wood frames had the benefit of not transmitting the heat through the walls quite as fast.

Even our old fifth wheel had the telltale frost lines on the outside of the RV on cold frosty days.  The standard RV industry fix of leaving a window slightly open to let the moisture out does not help at zero degrees.  The heater would not keep ahead of the air leak.  We just try to keep the condensation cleaned up as best we can!” – Russ Berquam, 2014 Ford F-350, 2015 Arctic Fox 1140

“I use Dry-Z-Air containers.  I have them in the bedroom, in the dinette area, in the kitchen, and one in the bathroom.  I put these in any time we are not using the camper.  It’s surprising how much moisture I accumulated in a small amount of time.  I live on the northern coast of California, and there is a lot of moisture in the air.” – Greg Gaser, 2014 Ford F350, 2017 Lance 1172

“We have a small dehumidifier.  It’s a little 6-inch cube that runs when we are on shore power.  It doesn’t get it all, but it will remove 8 to 10 ounces a day.” – Jay Knight, 2009 2500 HD, 2014 Northstar Adventurer

“I always have a roof vent open, except when we’re going down the road, to allow the camper to breath.” – George Visconti, 2015 GMC 3500HD, 2016 Arctic Fox 990

“I keep the roof vent open all the time, the Fantastic Fan running when cooking, and wipe up the moisture as necessary.” – Joe Munn, 2001 Dodge Ram, 1998 Bigfoot 9’5″

“In our previous camper we used a dehumidifier and a product called DampRid from Home Depot.  As a combination, it works well plus the DampRid come in different fragrances.” – Scott Vallie, 2015 Dodge 3500, Pending Host Everest

“We have a 42-foot trawler at the West Coast.  We are quite experienced at condensation control.  Humans breathing can expel a considerable amount of moisture and non-vented propane appliances like a stove top can really add to the issue.

The number one way to keep things dry is ventilation.  Some air flow is needed to promote air exchange in the camper to keep humidity levels down.  But, what if you are camping in the cold or dealing with long term storage of the camper?  Those are two difference scenarios with different solutions.

Cold weather camping needs some ventilation.  People and pets spending more time cooped up in the camper is the result.  Cooking is often done inside.  It’s a must to have window(s) cracked to get some fresh air into the unit.

For long term storage, we have a pot of moisture collecting crystals centrally located in the camper.  We leave all the cupboard doors slightly ajar and, if possible, an exterior window cracked (or roof vent).  We also have a breathable mat that fits under the bed foam if we are not able to remove the mattress.  Standing any cushions (dinette or bedding) on the edge promotes air movement around these items and stops any dampness and mold growth.

Use your nose and eyes to confirm that you have done enough preventative measures to stop the possible damage.  It can be expensive and unhealthy not to stay on top of humidity issues in your rig.” – Wes Hargreaves, 2016 Ford F450, 2006 Snowbird 108DS

“In normal weather, we leave the bathroom vent cracked open whenever we are parked. If a little rain gets into the bathroom, it doesn’t harm anything.  Rain into any other vent is a mess.  If it’s really wet, it’s air conditioning to the rescue.  In my often cold weather deer hunting season, I use the range vent fan to exhaust most of the moisture due to cooking.

I often wait for somewhat mild weather to leave that bathroom vent open again.  I set the thermostat to fan and have a small electric fan for air circulation.  To keep the air conditioner unit from providing fan duty, I pull the air conditioner fuse.

But the big secret to cold weather moisture control is simply minimizing what generates the moisture.  I avoid using my propane furnace if I can run an electric space heater.  The space heater can’t be used for all heating because it doesn’t keep holding tanks warm.

I also cover the bed under the escape hatch with towels to keep the bed/bedding from getting soaked.  Another thing that minimizes condensation during cold weather is covering all non-thermal pane windows with plastic shrink sheeting.  I’ve even covered the inside of the screen door with the stuff to minimize heat loss due to convection.” – Philip Tron, 2009 Chevy 3500, 2012 Lance 1050

“I crack the skylight in the bathroom about one-quarter inch and also the low-placed pass-through window by the rear window of the truck.  The wet bath door has clearance above and below it which allows for circulation.  This also, I believe, saves heat (as compared to opening other windows) and keeps the bath a little warmer as the heated moist air is drawn through and out.” – Ed Graf, 2006 Dodge D2500, 2014 Arctic Fox 865

“We have experienced the same problem.  A couple months ago I ordered a small dehumidifier online from Home Depot.  It is a four pint model.  So far, it has removed eight pints of water (when it is on).  That is a considerable amount of moisture for such a compact space.  I would recommend the model they sell (online only).  I wish I had purchased it when we got the camper.” – Dewey Lackey, 2003 Silverado 3500, 2014 Lance 1172

“We boondock early in spring and late in the fall until snow comes, so there are some cold nights where we live.  We always open two windows and the top hatch to create a double cross ventilation, day and night.  If it gets chilly, we put on another layer of clothes.  If it’s really humid, we use the Fantastic Fan to suck up the moist outside the camper.  When cooking, even for just a soup, we always turn on the oven fan.  So far, so good.  Happy camping to everyone!” – Roch Nadon, 2007 Toyota Tundra, 2007 Okanagan 89W

“Our Snowriver came with a ceiling fan vent that can be controlled by a wall mounted humidistat.  The humidistat can be set at any percentage of humidity from zero to 100%. We keep it at 80% most of the time in cold weather.

It works great.  We have been in temperatures as low as five degrees.  It does pull heat out with the humidity.  The vent can be controlled independently when the humidistat is not set.” – Wortham Ashcroft, 2011 GMC 3500, 2008 Snowriver 8’10”

“We always leave at least one window open or at least opened slightly, but we still get condensation.  We air it out during the day.” – Bill Gahafer, 2008 Ford F450, 2013 Lance 1181

“We have found that by turning our sleeping position so that our heads are toward the center of the camper, it greatly reduces our condensation.  I guess it might be because we are breathing into the larger area of the camper versus the narrow over the truck area.  We also have the vent open and a window cracked (weather permitting).  If we are on shore power, we have a small 7-inch by 10-inch electric dehumidifier that we run.” – Dave and Cheryl Barker, 2014 Ram 3500, 2015 Northstar 850sc

“I crack the top vent and a side window.” – Jeff Hauser, 1996 Dodge d2500, 2006 Arctic Fox 860

“I don’t have a camper yet, but am thinking about buying one.  I have been doing some research and something to look at is a petite dehumidifier.  They use Peltier technology instead of a compressor.  They only weigh about 2.5 pounds and draw about 25 to 30 watts.” – Thomas Smith

“As one who lives at a higher elevation and camps mostly in cooler climates, I can’t wait to see the responses.  I can’t tell you how many mornings I have woken up to water on the window frame above dripping on me.” – Robert Williams, 2012 GMC 3500 HD, 1994 Fleetwood Caribou 10.5 foot

“Since I have been camp hosting for months with hookups on the California coast, I run a small dehumidifier 24/7.  I also have passive hanging bag moisture removing crystals in the main closet, in the cabover, and one in the bathroom.  They last about six weeks.  I lined my cabover hamper and closets with Reflectix to help stop some of the cold from coming in.

When I’m not hooked up, the bag moisture removers help but I still end up wiping windows and the roof seam in the cabover.  Moisture wants to accumulate on the ceiling in the cabover.  I have no leaks.  While hooked up, I have almost no condensation issues with this set up.” – Denise Gilmer, 2015 GMC 3500, 2014 Lance 1050s

“I use a Eva-Dry dehumidifier model EDV-2200.  It is slightly larger than gallon milk jug.  It has auto shutoff with high water level, and draws 55 watts.  I run it practically 24/7.  It is so quiet you can barely hear it.  It wouldn’t make a good white noise generator for sleeping, it’s so quiet.” – Travis Shull, 2006 Ram 3500, 2015 CampLite 9.6S

“Ventilation, ventilation, ventilation!  Roof fans, exhaust fans over the range, and the roof fan in the shower keep water vapor out as it is generated rather than allow water vapor to absorb into the structure.

Propane releases water during combustion.  Insensible sweat from occupants is also a  source of moisture.  Run your air conditioner unit occasionally to dehumidify the inside air.  It won’t take long to lower the relative humidity.” – Jerry Webb, 2015 Ford F350, 2016 Arctic Fox 1140

“With two adults, one 85 pound Labradoodle, and one cat, there is a small amount of condensation created.  We use the two vents with the power vent on exhaust as well as a condensation recovery unit.  Thus far we have been able to keep the inside of our unit to about 40 percent humidity over a long weekend.  As the weather gets colder, we will have to increase our window insulating to offset extra moisture content.” – Eric Devolin, 2007 GMC 3500, 2006 Adventurer 106DBS

“We’ve owned boats and our camper, all of which suffered from condensation, mostly in winter months.  Colder weather encourages that the dew point is reached, thus condensation.  We have successfully fought condensation in our various vehicles by using moisture absorbers, such as Dri-Z-Air, which can be purchased at Camping World and West Marine.  The moisture collector contains moisture-capturing crystals that are held in a tray that is positioned over a water collection pan.  You must occasionally pour out the collected water and refresh the crystals.  It works like a charm on both boats and campers.” – Jim and Cindi Goodrich, 2006 Chevy 3500, 2008 Lance 1191

“We use a humidifier when we get back from trips.  It seems to help.  We start the trip with a dry camper.  However we still get some condensation over the bed sometimes. We just wipe it off, so it’s really not that much of a problem.” – Roger Jennings, 2015 Ram 3500, 2015 Lance 1052

“We camp in the dead of winter several times a year to snowshoe and ski from our pop-up camper.  Condensation on winter trips has been a continuous problem, especially on the below zero nights and directly over our heads on the ceiling of the cabover.

One thing we have done is add a layer of ¼-inch closed cell foam on the ceiling and on several of the walls around the dinette where we sit with our backs against the wall.  This has helped with condensation where we sleep and cold backs when sitting around.

Currently we have several sources of heat in our pop-up.  First, we have a 1500 watt electric heater which is great and minimizes condensation at campgrounds with electricity.  We have an installed forced draft furnace which is noisy, inefficient (wastes both gas and electricity), and does not provide even heating comfort.  We also have a portable catalytic heater for boondocking which unfortunately adds a lot of moisture when used.

We like to boondock, so we need to eliminate even more condensation.  We are purchasing a vented Platinum Cat Heater made by Arnie Lind with the optional exterior combustion air source to replace our installed forced draft furnace.  The Black Cat is more efficient, quiet, provides even heat, and is very safe with the exterior combustion air and venting for the exhaust.  Next winter we should be able to report that our cold winter condensation issues are solved.” – David Kiel, 2007 Toyota Tundra, 2012 Phoenix custom

“We have also experienced condensation at times.  The best thing that I find that works is to keep a window cracked and use the Fantastic Fan to circulate the air.” – Richard Luczynski, 2015 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD, 2015 Lance 1050S

“We just wipe it when we see it.” – John Bull, 2004 Dodge 3500, 2015 Arctic Fox 990

“Our kitchen appliances run on diesel, not gas.  Cooking dinner, we try to have enough ventilation in the camper.  At night, all the windows are protected with insulating fabric.  We try to have ventilation.” – Frederic Amorós, 2011 Toyota Hilux, 2011 PSI-AZALAÏ Fix Cell (France)

“Ventilation is probably the only cure for removing/avoiding condensation.  Avoiding the problems caused by condensation is a slightly different matter.  I do think it’s worthwhile to monitor humidity in the camper since it’s such a small space.  I’ve found that just running the propane stove for a few minutes raises relative humidity several percentage points.  Obviously, taking a shower, much more so.

We use the small, inexpensive thermometer/humidity monitor from Acurite, costing slightly over $10, to keep an eye on humidity.  That alerts us to open a window and roof vent well before things start to steam up.  Ours is mounted on the wall with a velcro tape in an eye-level location.

Probably the biggest single concern with long term high humidity is mold growth, and accompanying musty odor.  Also, because the camper offers such a compact living space, odors from clothing, cooking, and humans can reach noticeable levels from time to time.

The US Navy uses ozone on its nuclear subs to address this issue.  There are a number of small 12-volt ozone-and-ion generators available, designed for use in automobiles, that would work very well in our campers.  Low-level ozone (like the fresh air after a thunderstorm) actually kills mold, and the ozone eliminates odors by chemically digesting (oxidizing) the organic molecules that produce them.  The ProtoAir Air Purifier is highly rated by users, and is on my shopping list.” – John and Marylou Wells, 2011 Chevy 3500, 2012 Chalet Ascent S100F

“I don’t know that we have a problem with condensation!  We have been camping with truck campers since the middle 1970s with several different makes and never had a known condensation problem.” – Bob Vea, 2003 Chevrolet 3500, 2003 Arctic Fox 1150

“We absolutely do experience a lot of moisture in our camper in cooler weather.  We live and camp a lot in the southeast where the humidity levels are commonly 80 to 100 percent, even when it’s not raining.

We try to prevent as much moisture as possible by cross ventilating windows and/or roof vents.  However, we haven’t found a way yet to completely remove the moisture.

When we get home from every trip, we clean the inside of the camper, even the smallest areas.  This has prevented our camper from getting any mold, so far.  I’m very interested in learning from others on this issue.” – Rick Guffey, 2012 Ram 2500, 2013 Hallmark Everest

“The best way to prevent condensation is to circulate air, vent, and, as said, check for leaks.” – Charlie Young, Chevy 2500HD, 2012 Riverside 865

“I know I have yet to get the rig, but I have retired from home building, interior cabinet and finish work on houses, and high-end yacht interiors, like million dollar motor sailers.  The same principles are at work in any space that is built to keep water from the outside getting inside.  It also makes it a problem getting water from the inside to pass to the outside.

The worst thing about condensation is that the vapor will pass through inside surfaces, like the wall coverings, and condense on the cold outside surface.  It will get into any insulation that is not a closed cell type.  If there is any material that can be affected by water in the camper build, it will get wet.  Wood parts and panels that have water condense on them have the potential to decay.

Here is something you can check to determine the source of the water vapor.  When your rig is not being used for a few weeks, but has exposure to the outside rain, do you see condensation inside when you open it up?  If so, the water is getting in from outside.  If you only notice the condensation when using the camper, then it is being formed from inside.

Water vapor is comes from using the sink, wiping up the counter, damp cloths, shoes, dogs you brought in from outside, hand and bath towels, washed food items, cooking, or making coffee.  It’s also from breathing and evaporation of the bath and kitchen water from the sink drain, toilet, or shower.  Like in a house bathroom, when you’re taking a shower, you see fog on the mirror.  Any water vapor in a camper will condense when it cools.

Natural gas has a lot of water vapor in it and that is why range hoods for gas stoves need to move more air out than electric stoves.  A kitchen fan will move between 200 to 300 cubic feet per minute and a bath fan 50 to 100 cubic feet per minute.  If a house bath is 8-feet x 7-feet x 8-feet high, it has 448 cubic feet.  A bath fan exchanges the entire room in 4.5 to 9 minutes.  No vapor inside will mean no condensation inside the living space or inside its walls.

What you can do is to notice how you create vapor in your living rhythm and work to reduce it.  Then, vent the vapor outside before in condenses.  Open windows do not move much air without a fan.  A roof fan in the bed area blowing out and a open vent in the lower door would be ideal.  Remember that water vapor is a real big problem for your campers survival.” – Hass Ivan, ETA-Tacoma 2016, pop-up style

The post How to Prevent Condensation in Truck Campers appeared first on Truck Camper Magazine.

Cirrus Campers announces the second generation 2017 Cirrus 820.  Based on the outgoing 800, the 820 features a major cabinetry redesign, a new face-to-face dinette, dramatic tank size increases, and much more.  Are those drawers?

As a magazine, part of our mission is to help the truck camper industry stay in tune with what the marketplace wants.  For example, we conduct a semi-annual survey on exactly what our readers are looking for in their next truck camper.  The extensive consumer survey is specific about nearly every element of truck camper design and has directly influenced many industry product decisions over the past half-decade.

After Cirrus Campers debuted in June of 2015, the Cirrus leadership team invited us to their factory in Sugarcreek, Ohio to get our first look at the Cirrus 800.  On our way back east from a multi-month truck camping trek, we stopped by and spent the better part of a day meeting the crew, studying the production line, and giving the designers feedback on the new camper.  What a privilege.

During our conversations about the Cirrus 800, we learned that the Cirrus team had solicited feedback from a number of sources; dealers, consumers, vendors, and almost anyone who walked in the door interested in truck campers.  The culture at Cirrus was wide open to feedback.

Fast forward almost ten months.  Cirrus Campers has taken to heart your survey responses, evaluated dealer comments, absorbed customer suggestions, considered our list of recommendations, and emerged with what can only be called Cirrus Generation 2.  The Cirrus 820 shares the same floor plan as the Cirrus 800, but so much has been updated that the Cirrus team gave it a new model number.

To find out exactly what’s new in the 2017 Cirrus 820, we talked to Scott Hubble, CEO and Allen Miller, the Director of Research and Development of Cirrus Campers.

2017 Cirrus 820 Specifications:

The Cirrus 820 is a hard side, non-slide, wet bath truck camper for short bed trucks.  The interior floor length of the Cirrus 820 is 8’3″ and the interior height is 6’5″.  Cirrus is reporting the base dry weight of the Cirrus 820 at 2,080 pounds and 2,540 pounds with standard features.  It has a 38 gallon fresh water tank, a 32 gallon grey tank, and a 18 gallon black tank.  The camper accommodates two batteries and two twenty-pound propane tanks.  The base price MSRP for the Cirrus 820 is $33,952.

Above: The exterior of the Cirrus 820. All photography provided by Cirrus Campers.

TCM: Before we get to the Cirrus 820, tell us about the response you had to the first generation of Cirrus truck campers.

Scott: As we expected with an all-new product, the initial reaction to the Cirrus 800 was not mixed.  People either loved the Cirrus 800, or didn’t.

Overall, we are happy with the way Cirrus launched and are excited about the resulting feedback and changes.  We are confident that we have squashed the objections and made the 2017 Cirrus 820 a much stronger competitor.  Several key elements of the Cirrus 800 have been either overhauled or fine tuned.

Above: The interior of the Cirrus 820

TCM: Was there a consensus about what was right about the first generation of Cirrus campers, and what needed to be changed?

Scott: Yes, there was.  The initial feedback said that the camper was innovative, but there were some fundamentals that had been overlooked.

The biggest things were all function related.  For example, the unit needed more internal storage, two propane tanks, dual batteries, and larger holding tanks.  Customers wanted more storage and capacity to camp off-the-grid longer.

TCM: Tell us about the process of designing the second generation product.  Was it just a matter of compiling everyone’s wish list and working things in, or was there more to it?

Allen: It was an extensive redesign, not so much structurally, but certainly with the new cabover cabinetry, full-booth dinette, kitchen drawers, battery compartment, propane compartment, and basement configuration.

Scott: The footprint of the Cirrus 820 is unchanged, but we reconfigured within the footprint.  The largest change is in the kitchen.

Above: Two kitchen drawers are now below the refrigerator

The overhead cabinetry has been raised up, the countertop has been extended, and we have added a series of drawers on the far right hand side and below the refrigerator.

Above: The countertop has been extended with more food prep space

All of these changes played into a major design update.

Above: The Cirrus 820 has a diamond plate bumper design

TCM: Not too long after the first generation Cirrus 800 launched, the rear ABS bumper was changed to a new diamond plate design.  What bumper is standard for 2017?

Scott: We built two dozen units with the ABS bumper.  With feedback, further testing, and research, we decided to move to the diamond plate bumper design.  We even retrofitted the Cirrus campers in our yard and on many dealer lots with the diamond plate bumpers.  There are now fewer than ten Cirrus campers with the original ABS bumpers.

The second generation continues with the diamond plate bumpers.  It’s a strong design that’s been well received.

TCM: Are the Torklift International GlowSteps standard for 2017, or an option?

Scott: Torklift International GlowSteps are a new option for the 2017 Cirrus 820.  Cirrus dealers and customers asked us to find a step solution for taller trucks and the GlowSteps are perfect for that requirement.

The quality of the GlowStep system is superior to any other scissor steps on the market and they eliminate any potential drop from the Cirrus bumper to the ground.  Customers can even add or delete steps to adjust the GlowStep system to the height of their truck.

Above: The Cirrus bumper with the pull-out step system is standard

TCM: Is the pull-out step system still available?

Scott: Yes, the pull-out step we used on the Cirrus 800 is standard on the 820.

The Torklift International GlowStep option is available from Cirrus dealers.  If you need a taller step system with your truck, the GlowSteps integrate well with the Cirrus 820.

TCM: The first thing we noticed on your updates was the dramatic increases in holding tank sizes.  The fresh tank increased from 26 gallons to 38 gallons, or 46%.  The grey tank increased from 19 gallons to 32 gallons or 68%.  And the black tank increased from 17 gallons to 18 gallons.  Why did you make these considerable tank size changes?

Allen: For a new product design we usually start with existing holding tank sizes.  That approach worked well for the first generation Cirrus 800, but dealer and consumer feedback indicated we needed much larger holding tanks for the second generation.  To make this happen, we had larger holding tanks designed and manufactured for the 2017 Cirrus 820.

We also had some grey tank plumbing running into the black tank on the first generation campers.  For the 2017 model, the grey and black to run into separate tanks.

Above: The grey and black tanks are in the base of the camper, the black tank is in the back

TCM: Why did you decide on 38 gallons fresh, 32 gallons grey, and 18 gallons black?

Allen: We researched the holding tank capacities of other short bed, hard side truck campers and modeled our tank capacities to be competitive, if not superior.  We originally wanted our fresh tank to be 40 gallons, but we were only able to fit a 38 gallon tank.

TCM: With the larger and heavier tank capacities, are you embracing a higher weight point and truck requirement for the Cirrus 820?

Scott: Yes.  When the 2017 Cirrus is wet and loaded with gear, you will need at least 3,000 pounds of payload.

TCM: With the way GVWR and payload vary between trucks, that’s likely a late model three-quarter ton truck.  If the customer is towing, or has plans to upgrade campers in the future, TCM would recommend a one ton with the Cirrus.

Scott: We designed, built, and appointed the Cirrus 820 the way customers want it.  Recognizing that customer needs and desires are paramount, we were able to modify our design for what’s best.  The 2017 Cirrus 820 is a very functional three-quarter ton truck camper.

Above: There are five access panels on the underbelly of the camper

TCM: What are the individualized sub-floor access panels?

Allen: On the generation one Cirrus 800, the exterior underside of the camper is a single panel that can be dropped to access tanks and conduct repairs.

For the second generation, we have divided this panel into five lighter weight panels that can be removed individually to make repairs.  The new panels are laminated composite and foam insulation and weigh about a pound each.  They’re really lightweight and easy to handle.

Above: The control panel with black and grey valves, drain valves, and external shower

TCM: That kind of access is invaluable for future owners.  In your email to us about the updates, you describe the 2017 Cirrus 820 as being a “true four season camper”.  What changes have been made to make the Cirrus more four-season capable?

Allen: The biggest change was a new control panel where your black and grey valves, drain valves, and external shower are now located, sealed, and insulated.

Above: The Rieco-Titan control panel for the jacks and the water control panel are on the driver’s side rear of the camper

The grey and black tank valves are also now under the sub-floor with the heating convectors.  Everything else about the first generation was four-season ready, but these changes were needed.

Above: The Cirrus 820 has a dual battery compartment on the passenger’s side rear of the camper

TCM: When we were at the factory last summer, we suggested the Cirrus 800 needed a dual battery compartment and space for two propane tanks.  How did you make this a reality without sacrificing interior storage?

Allen: On the first generation, the propane and battery compartments were side-by-side on the driver’s side of the unit.  To make the change, we moved the battery compartment and extended the propane compartment. The batteries are now in the bumper area.  No internal storage was lost.

Actually, we gained a significant amount of interior storage for the 2017 update.

Above: Two twenty-pound vertical propane tanks are on the driver’s side

TCM: What size propane tanks and batteries does the Cirrus 820 now accommodate?

Allen: The Cirrus 820 now accommodates two 20-pound vertical propane tanks.  We designed our own bracket.  It offers good protection for the tank, and features a 2-inch nylon tank strap that’s easy to work with.

Scott: With a battery tray footprint of 13 ¾” deep x 12 ¾” wide x 10 ¾” tall, it will easily fit two Group 27 and the vast majority of Group 31 batteries.  If you want to have two Group 31 batteries, we recommend measuring the batteries prior to installation.

TCM: We bought our current Group 31 AGM batteries at an Interstate battery store.  That allowed us to try to fit the Group 31 batteries prior to purchase.  Are you still sourcing the Cirrus 820 cabinets from Italy?

Scott: Yes, we are still sourcing the cabinets from our Italian partner.  The cabinetry is light ply, modern, and features the same aesthetic and composition as seen in the first generation Cirrus.

Above: More bedroom storage in the Cirrus 820; hampers, front penguins, headboard storage, and high cabinets

TCM: What changes have been made to the cabover?

Allen: The first generation of Cirrus campers had an oversized queen bed, but hardly any cabover storage.  The new cabover has a true 60-inch by 80-inch queen-size bed.

That change gave us extra storage cabinetry on either side.  We also added more width to the side storage and installed a hamper lid that’s hinged for additional storage.

Above: Front storage in the very front of the cabover nose

In the front bulkhead there was no storage in generation one.  Now there is a removable lid with storage and access to the Alde convectors.

Above: Front cabinets with a middle shelf

On each side of the bulkhead you also have a front cabinets with a shelf.  We eliminated the open shelf in favor of the more useful front cabinets.  The open shelf is the only cabover element that was eliminated.  The reading lights are now installed on the side of the front cabinets.

TCM: Tell us more about the side hampers.  With the Alde system convectors being located there, how much storage do you realistically have?

Allen: The side hampers are approximately 6-inches high, 50-inches long, and 8-inches wide.  It’s a nice area for socks, underwear, and clothing that you can fold up.  The hampers have provided a nice area for storage.

TCM: Do the hampers trap the heat from the Alde convectors?

Allen: No.  The convector is installed against the side wall, which is good.  There are slots along the back side for the air to flow up and around the hamper.  As part of the redesign, we also decreased the space the convector was using.  Finally, under the mattress we have the Froli system for air flow.

The new hamper design created a nice storage space and made for better air flow with the heating system.

TCM: For the 2017 model year, you have gone to a traditional face-to-face booth dinette instead of the U-shape dinette in the first generation.  Why did you make this change?

Scott: Two reasons.  There was very little usable surface area with the U-shape dinette table.  So, to get more table and working space, we enlarged the table to the side wall.  The table is now double the size for working, eating, and living space.

TCM: That’s awesome.  As two people who work on laptops in camper dinettes all the time, that space is just perfect.  It will also be better for meals, cards, and maps.

Scott: The other reason we moved to a face-to-face dinette is because the Cirrus 820 is mainly designed for two people.

TCM: Talk about how you designed the height of the seats, table, and overall ergonomics of the dinette.

Allen: We raised the height of the seats and increased the depth for comfort.  We based the height and depth on what looked and felt right given the space limitations.  The goal was to make the dinette more comfortable.

TCM: Tell us about the new rail system table.

Allen: The FAWO rail system table mounts to the side and has a leg for stability.  The table can be attached and then reattached at a lower position to make the dinette bed.

The table is lightweight making it easy to convert into a bed.

We also have an upholstered panel that attaches to the side so you can relax and lean into the corner.

TCM: We enjoy sitting across the dinette seats and leaning into the corner as you describe.  Tell us about the redesigned bunk and why you redesigned it from the first generation.

Scott: The bunk redesign is subtle.  The new bunk is focused more on storage and less on being a bunk for children to sleep.

Above: The new dinette bunk latch system

It’s still highly functional, but we moved the latches to be less visible, shortened the height, and made the overall design simpler and cleaner.

TCM: What did you do with the wall in-between the cabover and dinette?

Allen: The wall is still there, but it is cut down significantly.  Now the wall does not obstruct the person on the passenger’s side from getting out of the cabover.

He/she will not need to climb over the other person.  This was part of the bunk redesign.

TCM: That change should really open up the camper.  How did you make the kitchen countertop larger?

Allen: By moving the tank monitors off the side of the refrigerator cabinet, and removing a section of the refrigerator cabinet, we gained a full four inches of counter space.

The tank monitor and switches are now on the wall, along the back of the sink, beside the lighted panel.

Above: Metal roller bearing guide drawers in the kitchen

TCM: Another feedback item on the first generation was the lack of drawers.  Now you have five drawers in the kitchen area.  How did you do that?

Scott: We had three big cabinet doors on the generation one Cirrus campers.  We decided to make one of those big cabinets a series of three drawers.  So, now we have two large cabinets and a set of three drawers under the cook top.

Above: Five drawers have been added to the kitchen area; three under the stove and two under the refrigerator

When we were moving things around, we discovered another storage opportunity under the refrigerator.  This area was previously occupied by the converter, which we have since moved under the cabover step.  Under the refrigerator are now two additional drawers.

Above: An over-the-range microwave is standard on the Cirrus 820

TCM: In your email to us you stated that a Samsung microwave with hood is now standard.  Is that correct?

Allen: Yes, it’s an over-the-range microwave with venting on the bottom, just like many of us have at home.  Like many amenities, the microwave is standard on the 2017 Cirrus 820.

TCM: For 2017, Cirrus is switching from Atwood to Rieco-Titan jacks.  Why are you making this change?

Allen: There were several reasons for that change.  First, the Atwood dually swing-out brackets needed to be mounted on the side of the camper.  This design was difficult and impractical on the Cirrus 800.

Above: Rieco-Titan Jacks are mounted on the Cirrus 820

By switching to Rieco-Titan, the drive motor is on the side allowing the jacks to be mounted in the front.

Second, the control panel with Atwood is open and Rieco-Titan has everything closed with a nice cover.  And third, Atwood only offers black jacks as a special order.  Rieco-Titan offers black jacks as a standard color.

Above: The Alde system is now located under the dinette seating area

TCM: The Alde system brought some challenges to the design of the Cirrus 800.  For example, it took up a lot of the under sink kitchen storage.  Did you move the Alde system for the 2017 update?

Allen: Yes.  By raising the dinette seating, we opened up an area to move the Alde heating system.  The Also system is now under the dinette seat closet to the cabover.

TCM: Do you worry about it getting too hot for the person sitting in the dinette?

Scott: We have been mounting the Alde system under the dinette seats in our T@b trailers for years.  Unlike a typical furnace, the nature of the Alde system technology is that the unit will get warm, but not hot.

Allen: If you touch a running Alde system, you will barely recognize that it’s on.  The reason is that the unit itself is insulated within the Alde shroud.  As such, the only area emitting heat would be the brass fitting on the check valve.

Above: The Cirrus 820 wet bath features the fold down sink from the 800

TCM: Are you still incorporating the other leading edge design elements and features of the original model; opening front window, heated floors, seamless aluminum roof, fold-down bathroom sink, etc.?

Scott: Absolutely.  Those are signature Cirrus features and things that we want identified with Cirrus as a company.  There is always a balance between aesthetics and function.  Function needs to win that battle more times than not, but we need to keep that balance.  We weren’t willing to sacrifice any of those elements for the Cirrus 820.

TCM: How about the bathroom?  Have there been any changes there?

Scott: Under the floor there have been some plumbing changes, so there was a slight raise in the floor.

Allen: With your eyes you won’t be able to notice anything different in the bathroom.  We refined and improved the function, but not the aesthetic.

TCM: When will the 2017 Cirrus 820 be available at dealerships?

Scott: The 2017 Cirrus 820s have just been made available to dealers and will start showing up on dealers’ lots in relative short order.

TCM: How about weight?  How has that changed?

Scott: The weight of a 2017 Cirrus 820 that just went out the door with almost every option, including the rear camera system, Maggie roof rack, and solar kit was 2,580 pounds.

Above: The Cirrus 820 comes standard with a Fiamma motorized awning and keyless entry

The standard unit weight comes in at 2,540 pounds and includes the Fiamma motorized awning and ladder, electric jacks, keyless entry, air conditioner, Alde central heat and hot water system, Samsung microwave oven, overhead bunk, HDTV television, entertainment center, and Sensar IV HD antenna.

TCM: Have you increased the $33,952 base MSRP?

Scott: No.  We have left the MSRP the same.  The price of the Cirrus 820 is not going up.

We’re basically selling the Cirrus 820 campers with everything on them.  The only options are a rear awning, Maggie rack, rear camera, 160-watt solar kit, swing out brackets, pass-through window, and the mattress for the bunk.

TCM: So items like the keyless entry, cabover entry door windows, air conditioner, and See Level gauges are all included in a standard build?

Scott: Yes, and all of that is included in the above stated weight and base MSRP.

TCM: Is there anything else about the next generation 2017 Cirrus 820 that you would like to add?

Scott: We’re currently in the beginning stages of creating a light weight Cirrus, which will be designed for half-ton trucks.  There is an opportunity for a high-end half-ton truck camper and we’d like to step into that batter’s box and take a swing.

TCM: That’s very exciting news.  What weight target are you swinging for?

Scott: We want to come to the plate at 1,700 pounds loaded with awesome features.

TCM: Will it have a bathroom?

Scott: Yes, it will have a bathroom.

TCM: Where are you now with this new model?

Scott: We are in extreme research and development with the prototype.  When it’s ready, we will debut it right here in Truck Camper Magazine.

For more information about Cirrus Campers, visit their website at nucamprv.com/cirrus.  Click here to request a 2017 Cirrus brochure.

The post TCM EXCLUSIVE: 2017 Cirrus 820 appeared first on Truck Camper Magazine.

It’s no secret that I’m something of a music nut.  In my free time at home, I spend hours spinning vinyl LPs or 24 bit music files on an all-vacuum-tube stereo system.  For me, listening to great music on a audiophile stereo system is heaven on Earth.

My music addiction doesn’t go away when we hit the road – it comes with us!  In our truck camper I have a stereo system that keeps my musical soul happy no matter where the four winds take us.  It’s actually a home-style stereo system complete with two speakers, integrated amplifier, and a digital file player.  The system actually fits perfectly in the cabinetry over the dinette.  Just open the cabinet doors, and rock out.

TCM reader, Gary Usher, was clearly after my heart when he sent us the following question of the week suggestion.  I hear you Gary!

“Most RVs come with stereos that sound like grandpa’s 1965 Chrysler AM radio.  How would you upgrade or replace the stock stereo the manufacturers install?  I need good tunes on the road and at the campsite!” – Gary Usher

This week’s Question of the Week is, “Have you upgraded your truck camper stereo system, or done anything to enjoy music on the road?”

If you have upgraded or modified your truck camper stereo, please tell us about your system.  And why not include a few of your favorite music artists?  Mozart or Metallica, Gary and I want to know.  Road music?  Yes, please!

Click here to read about the stereo systems readers have in their truck campers.

The post Is That Truck Camper Rock? Well Turn It Up! appeared first on Truck Camper Magazine.